Summer Bulbs Can Start Now

Canna should bloom for next summer.

Spring bulbs go into their gardens through autumn because they enjoy the chill of winter. Summer bulbs do not. They instead prefer to wait until after the coolest of winter weather. If they start too early, some might decay in cool and damp soil before they begin to grow. Some may grow while the weather is warm only to incur damage from later cool weather.

However, they should not wait for too long. Summer bulbs dislike winter but enjoy spring. Those that start about now will be ready for it. By the time their new growth emerges from the soil, there will be no concern of frost. Although most generate only vegetative growth through spring, they bloom for summer. Many continue until frost or the following autumn.

Summer bulbs, like spring bulbs, are merely dormant perennials. Only a few are actually bulbs, though. Most are corms, rhizomes or tubers. They produce new foliage and bloom while the weather is warm. Then, they go dormant as the weather cools for the following autumn or winter. Once in the garden, several types can stay and perpetuate indefinitely.

For example, new canna rhizomes might rot if they go into the garden too early in winter. However, after their first summer, they can survive in the garden through their next winter. Dahlias might also survive winter dormancy in the garden. However, they are more likely to survive if dug and stored for winter. Their tubers might return to the garden about now.

Summer bulbs that are actually bulbs or corms, such as gladiolus, generally bloom once. Dahlias grow from tubers, so bloom for a more extensive season. Summer bulbs that are rhizomes, such as gingers, may bloom once or sporadically. Gingers and crocosmia can eventually become invasive. However, gladiolus is rarely as sustainable as it should be.

Summer bulbs become available from nurseries as it becomes time to plant them. Some are available now, and more will become available as their season progresses. Dahlias, cannas and callas should be available growing in pots after early spring. Summer bulbs that proliferate a bit too much are easy to share. Many propagate very easily by division. Most perform as well within large pots and planters as they do in the soil.

Six on Saturday: Retail Nursery Visit

It is a long story, but to be brief, while waiting for a neighbor to finish at another errand, I visited a nursery and took these few pictures.

1. Bare root stock is too tempting. I must resist. I already have all of the fruit trees that I want. Almost all remained canned from last winter because I did not clear their orchard.

2. Magnolia soulangeana, saucer magnolia looks like it will be blooming soon. I suspect that these trees were field grown in heavy soil in Oregon. I refrained from investigating.

3. Primula vulgaris, English primrose no longer seems to be as common as its botanical name suggests. Perhaps I can learn to appreciate it again. Their colors are so cartoonish.

4. Cyclamen persicum, florist’s cyclamen is also easier to appreciate again when it is less cliche than it is as garish red and white Christmas decor. White is still my favorite color.

5. Daphne odora, daphne caught my attention initially by fragrance, and then by its lack of variegation. I wonder if it grows any more vigorously without variegation than with it.

6. Lamprocapnos spectabilis, bleeding heart is not cliche in white like florist’s cyclamen is. I know nothing of this species, but I get the impression that it tolerates a bit of shade.

This is the link for Six on Saturday, for anyone else who would like to participate: https://thepropagatorblog.wordpress.com/2017/09/18/six-on-saturday-a-participant-guide/

Blood Orange

Blood oranges may be red within.

As weird as they seem, blood oranges are a class of common orange, Citrus X sinensis. Their fruit may resemble common sweet oranges externally, or may be blushed with red. Internally, the flesh exhibits red streaks or blotches, or is more uniformly garnet red. Cool autumn weather enhances red fruit color. ‘Tarocco’ may not develop any red color locally.

‘Sanguinelli’ is likely the most popular cultivar here. It produces relatively small fruits with peachy external blush. Their trees are relatively large and upright. ‘Moro’ produces larger unblushed fruits with darker and more uniformly red flesh. Their trees are relatively broad and low. While ‘Sanguinelli’ is more of a juicing orange, ‘Morro’ is more a dessert orange.

Blood oranges are quite popular in Europe, particularly within the Mediterranean region. Their flavor is more tart and berry-like than that of sweet oranges which are popular here. Blood orange trees are quite happy with the climates and soils here. They prefer regular irrigation while young, but become less demanding as they mature. Dwarf trees are most proportionate to gardens.

Citrus Fruits Ripen Through Winter

Citrus fruits of winter include lemons.

Planting and pruning of deciduous fruit trees are priorities for winter. Evergreen fruit trees are not as much of a concern. For them, planting and pruning should happen after winter. However, most citrus trees are most productive with their summerish fruit through winter. Oranges, lemons, limes, Mandarin oranges, grapefruit and more are ripening about now.

With the exception of Mandarin oranges, most citrus fruits are impressively durable. Most can last for months on their trees, which is likely why they seem so summerish. Mandarin oranges have loose skin, which causes them to oxidize faster than the others. ‘Valencia’ oranges, though, can linger for a year after ripening. They actually sweeten as they age.

Also, some cultivars of citrus extend their production with sporadic fruiting. While ‘Lisbon’ lemon fruits only for winter, ‘Eureka’ lemon fruits more sporadically. ‘Eureka’ is actually a cultivar or cultivated variety of ‘Lisbon’. Although a bit less productive in season, ‘Eureka’ produces several fruits out of season. It rarely disappoints by failing to provide a few fruit.

Oranges and lemons are the most familiar of citrus. They are surprisingly diverse though. ‘Meyer’ lemon is almost as acidic as other lemons, but with a richer flavor like an orange. Most oranges are dessert oranges for eating out of hand, but ‘Valencia’ is for juice. Blood oranges are for juicing, but ‘Moro’ is a dessert orange. Sour oranges are for marmalades.

Mandarin oranges that developed in the Americas formerly classified as tangerines. Now they seem to qualify as Mandarin oranges, like more traditional Mandarin oranges. They collectively might be the most diverse class of popular citrus. More cultivars of Mandarin orange are available than the others. ‘Rangpur’ lime is actually a sour Mandarin orange.

There is so much variety among citrus. Besides oranges, lemons and Mandarin oranges, there are too many to list. Grapefruit, limes kumquats, pomelos, calamondins and citrons are a few examples. Limequats are hybrids of limes and kumquats. Tangelos are hybrids of grapefruit and Mandarin oranges. Orangequats are hybrids of oranges and kumquats.

Six on Saturday: More Winter Flowers Again

The last two are not actually winter flowers, but happened to be in bloom for these Six.

1. Helleborus orientalis, hellebore does not perform well here. I sometimes comment on how pretty they are in other gardens. Yet, even here, some bloom nicely once in a while.

2. Daphne odora ‘Variegata’, variegated daphne seems to bloom better when distressed. This particular specimen is not as healthy as the others which are blooming a bit slower.

3. Cynoglossum grande, Pacific hound’s tongue is a native wildflower that grows where it wants to. This one is in my driveway. It will not die, but it does not like to be relocated.

4. Tecomaria capensis, Cape honeysuckle is prettier close up than it is at a distance. It is awkward in form, but can not be pruned enough without eliminating some of its bloom.

5. Leonotis leonurus, lion’s ear does not actually bloom at this time of year. This is just a random off bloom. It could be early for next summer, or it could be late for last summer.

6. Callistemon viminalis ‘Little John’ dwarf bottlebrush technically should not bloom at this time of year either, but can bloom whenever the weather has been warm for a while.

This is the link for Six on Saturday, for anyone else who would like to participate: https://thepropagatorblog.wordpress.com/2017/09/18/six-on-saturday-a-participant-guide/

Blue Elderberry

Blue elderberries ripen through summer warmth.

Native blue elderberry, Sambucus cerulea, can grow twenty feet tall and wide in the wild. It is rare among compact home gardens. Domestic specimens are fortunately conducive to various pruning techniques, though. They regenerate very efficiently from coppicing or pollarding. Alternating canes pruning involves more effort but promotes berry production.

Blue elderberries are toxic while fresh, but make good jelly or syrup when cooked. They are also edible dried. Although quite tiny, they grow in large clusters that are three or four inches wide or wider. They ripen through late summer. Flowers, which bloom during late spring, are useful for teas or cordials. Some find their floral fragrance to be unappealing.

Because it grows so large, blue elderberry can be a large shrub or a small tree. It usually develops several trunks. Aggressive dormant pruning enhances foliar lushness. Without much pruning, old trees can develop dense thicket growth with sparse foliage. Individual leaves are pinnately compound, with five to nine leaflets. They are as long as six inches.

Alternating Canes Favors New Growth

Pruning should stimulate vigorous new growth.

Dormant pruning happens during winter for one primary reason; dormancy. For the same reason, most alternating canes pruning should happen during winter. The results of such pruning will become obvious during the following spring or summer. New growth should be more vigorous. Bloom and any subsequent fruit production should be more abundant.

Alternating canes is similar to coppicing, but not as drastic. Coppicing entails pruning all growth down to the ground. Alternating canes involves pruning only old and deteriorating stems to the ground. Younger and more vigorous stems remain with more space to grow and bloom. The process essentially promotes constant growth of more productive stems.

Pruning grape vines with this technique is a bit different. It entails pruning old canes only back to their permanent trunks, rather than to the ground. In that regard, it is more similar to pollarding, but not as drastic. Pollarding entails pruning all growth back to a trunk or a few main limbs. Small grape vines might support only a pair of canes after such pruning.

Most, but not all, alternating canes pruning should happen during winter dormancy. Lilac and Forsythia bloom profusely for early spring, but generate no fruit. Therefore, for them, alternating canes pruning may occur immediately after bloom. Delay of such pruning can allow old canes to bloom one last time prior to their removal. It maximizes floral potential.

Some species that benefit from alternating canes pruning happen to be evergreen. Their pruning can happen whenever it is convenient for them, even if not during winter. Abelia, for example, may be rather sparse after such pruning. It remains sparse for longer during early winter than late in winter. Oregon grape and Heavenly bamboo are also evergreen.

Proper dormant pruning for several types of plants involves alternating canes by default. These include, but are not limited to, roses, hydrangeas, elderberries, and cane berries. Some types of filbert, and some types of cotoneaster are less common examples. Witch hazels, like forsythias and lilacs, should bloom prior to pruning. Bamboos are conducive to alternating canes whenever they appear to get unkempt.