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Flowers For Late Summer Bloom

There are plenty of late flowers.

Most flowers bloom within their particular seasons. Many bloom for spring. Fewer bloom for winter. Only a few bloom randomly throughout the year, generally while the weather is warm. Several bloom specifically for late summer or into autumn. All have their particular reasons for blooming when they do. It is all about pollination and dispersal of their seed.

Most flowers bloom in spring to maximize the time for their seed to develop before winter. Some of these may begin to bloom even before early spring, in late winter. Many rely on wind for pollination, so are unconcerned about pollinators. Those that attract pollinators are bigger, more colorful, or perhaps fragrant. They wait for pollinators to become active.

Many flowers that bloom randomly throughout the year are actually from milder climates. Some are from tropical climates. Within their native ecosystems, they can disperse seed at any time. Also, their pollinators are as perpetually active as they are. Angel’s trumpet, for example, only stops blooming for cool winter weather. it is presently blooming nicely.

Canna similarly begins to bloom for late spring, and continues to bloom until autumn. It is from a tropical climate, so is more responsive to weather than to seasons. It could bloom as long as the weather is warm enough for it to do so. Like angel’s trumpet, it is presently blooming nicely. Several popular sages are likewise naturally native to tropical climates.

Several late summer flowers happen to be of the ‘Compositae’ Family. Their flowers are actually composite blooms of many tiny flowers. These include confelower, zinnia, aster, cosmos, blanket flower and black eyed Susan. Coreopsis, sneezeweed, cosmos, dahlia and sunflower are more examples. Chrysanthemum will become more seasonable later.

To be enjoying these flowers now, it would have been better to plant them earlier. Some are still available in bloom from nurseries. Potted dahlias are particularly nice. However, most perform best if they can grow into their situations prior to blooming. Sunflower grow best from seed sown immediately after winter. Those with big flowers need time to grow.

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Six on Saturday: Disheveled

Life is presently hectic here. Consequently, I did not prioritize six pictures for this week.

1. Acer macrophyllum, bigleaf maple leaf against a backdrop of sawdust looks malicious. Sadly, the tree needed to go, for a variety of reasons. Someone got some good firewood.

2. Chamaedorea plumosa, baby queen palm is reaching the saran ceiling. Now, it needs to relocate outside. The problem is that it has always been partially shaded by the saran.

3. Canna X generalis ‘Tropicanna’ canna was supposed to be ‘Alaska’. Fortunately, I got real ‘Alaska’ from another source. ‘Tropicanna’, although not planned, is a nice mistake.

4. Amaryllis belladonna, naked lady maintains some degree of modesty by being out of focus. Actually, I do not know why that happened. I am very fond of this white bloomer.

5. Heather has it made in the shade while she takes a break from rodent control. She can lounge about as much as she wants to, now that there are not many rodents left for her.

6. Rhody is difficult to get a good picture of. Nonetheless, any picture of Rhody is always the best of my ‘Six’. For this picture, he is on the porch of the home of one of his friends.

Anyone who would like to participate in this meme should peruse this participant guide for Six on Saturday.

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Night Blooming Jasmine

Night blooming jasmine is sweetly fragrant.

Looks can be deceiving. Night blooming jasmine, Cestrum nocturnum, does not look like much. It looks even less interesting in the darkness of night. However, its floral fragrance on warm summer nights is famously sugary and intense. Some might find it too intense. Nocturnal moths and bats are its preferred pollinators, so it is not fragrant during the day.

Because of its mundane appearance, night blooming jasmine is good in the background. It tolerates a bit of partial shade, so can be happy close to fences and buildings. It works well witin narrow spaces between houses and below high windows. Where winters are cool, it needs shelter from frost. It appreciates somewhat regular watering and rich soils.

Mature night blooming jasmine rarely grows higher than first floor eaves. It is quite easy to maintain lower, particularly if pruned aggressively after winter. Its narrow floral trusses suspend several small and narrowly tubular flowers. Individual flowers are about an inch long, and greenish white or pale yellow. Simple evergreen leaves are a few inches long, and narrow.

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Fragrance Is Really For Pollinators

Angel’s trumpet is fragrant but prominent.

Many flowers are fragrant. Many are colorful. Several are both. The majority, though, are neither. That is because flowers use fragrance and color only to attract pollinators. Most flowers rely on wind for pollination, so do not need to attract pollinators. Such flowers are not so conspicuous, though. Fragrance and color are much more prominent and popular.

Most prominently colorful flowers are not very fragrant. They do not need to be. Flowers can use one technique or the other, fragrance or color, to attract pollinators. They do not need to waste resources on redundancy. Hibiscus, dahlia, sunflower, daisy, camellia and canna all lack floral fragrance. Yet, they efficiently attract pollinators with their floral color.

Most prominently fragrant flowers are similarly not very colorful. Night blooming jasmine, sweet box and sweet osmanthus produce small white flowers. Yet, they efficiently attract pollinators with their floral fragrance. Gardenia is more colorful only because its blooms are larger. Star jasmine is more colorful only because its blooms are much more profuse.

Victorian box and mock orange also bloom with fragrant but subdued flowers about now. Most angel’s trumpet blooms with fragrant but impressively large flowers in pastel colors. Hyacinth, narcissus, freesia and lily flowered both fragrantly and colorfully last spring. So did wisteria and pink jasmine. Daphne flowers are diminutive but fragrant for next winter.

Modern roses and some bearded iris are not as fragrant as some old cultivars. Many lack fragrance altogether. This is generally because fragrance had not been a priority of their breeding. Both roses and bearded iris now bloom with bolder flowers, which last longer. Roses bloom for a longer season, instead of only once. Fragrance was the compromise.

Floral fragrances are as diverse as the pollinators that they attract. This is because, like floral color, they appeal to particular pollinators. A few appeal to a single specific species of pollinator. Several flowers disperse their fragrance at night for nocturnal moths or bats. Most flowers, though, are receptive to pollinators that they do not intentionally appeal to.

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Six on Saturday: Degradation

These are a few less than glamorous pictures from work, featuring normal deterioration, insect infestation, and desiccation. It will all work out in the end.

1. Agapanthus orientalis, lily of the Nile is slowly finishing its bloom cycle. Its florets are shriveling as its seed pods are growing. Blooms might stay until they look about like this.

2. Passiflora coccinea, red passion flower vine rarely has much intact foliage on it. Fuzzy caterpillars defoliate it as fast as it can grow. The caterpillars are active most of the year.

3. Ceratonia siliqua, carob seedlings succumbed to a very brief lapse of irrigation during warm weather. Fortunately, there were already more than enough, and enough survived.

4. Hesperoyucca whipplei, our Lord’s candle generated hefty pups as its original rosette bloomed and died. The pups are now dead. Maybe this subspecies really is monocarpic.

5. Agave attenuata X ocahui ‘Blue Glow’ agave is demonstrating how it is done properly. Now that it is generating young pups, the original rosette will likely bloom and die soon.

6. Trachycarpus fortunei, windmill palm abandones an old leaf below for every new leaf that it extends above. I cut the old leaves off to keep it looking tidy. It is notably healthy.

Anyone who would like to participate in this meme should peruse this participant guide for Six on Saturday.

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Korean Arborvitae

Korean arborvitae is a small tree.

Arborvitaes are quite uncommon here. Korean arborvitae, Thuja koraiensis, is one of the more uncommon among them. It is therefore uncommonly uncommon, or even rare. Not many examples are observable within local landscapes. Yet, some compact cultivars are becoming more available from nurseries. It will likely become more popular in the future.

Korean arborvitae is a large evergreen shrub or small tree. In the wild, it grows as tall as thirty feet, and half as broad. ‘Glauca’ has bluish foliage and grows only about fifteen feet tall, and ten feet wide. ‘Glauca Prostrata’ gets only three feet tall, and about six feet wide. Flat foliar sprays with clasping scale leaves resemble those of more familiar arborvitaes.

Also like more familiar arborvitaes, Korean arborvitae appreciates regular watering. It is resilient to brief lapses of irrigation once established, though. It tolerates partial shade as well. Although it prefers sandy loam, Korean arborvitae adapts to most soil types. Soil of inferior quality is rarely a problem. Spider mites can possibly infest during warm weather.

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Stakes Should Stabilize New Trees

Binding should subordinate to staking.

Initially after planting, many new trees and some large shrubs rely on stakes for stability. Some limber trees also need temporary structural support for thin trunks. Staking is only necessary until confined roots disperse and young trunks mature. Then, trees and large shrubbery stand on their own. Stakes help with the transition from nursery to landscape.

Different trees require different types of stakes. Palm trees need none at all. Spruce trees are likewise stout enough to stand alone. Camphor trees, though, typically need staking both for structural integrity and stability. Landscape stakes provide stability while nursery stakes provide trunk integrity. For most trees, landscape stakes displace nursery stakes.

Landscape stakes are those that loosely support new trees within their new landscapes. Nursery stakes, if present, are those that direct straight trunk growth in nurseries. Binding to nursery stakes inhibits trunk expansion, though. Therefore, it is better to remove them as soon as possible. This should occur after planting and staking with landscape stakes.

Landscape stakes, for adequate stability, should extend below roots of associated trees. This puts them into the solid undisturbed soil below the excavated soil. Also, they should be about as high as the lowest branches of their associated trees. For shrubbery and low branched trees, they should be about five feet high. Stakes are in standardized lengths.

One stake is adequate for some small trees. Other larger trees may justify two. Likewise, one top strap for each stake may be adequate. Secondary straps about halfway between top straps and the ground might be useful. They minimize bowing of limber trunks. Short nails can hold straps in place. Straps should cross over between their stakes and trees.

Staking should be as unobtrusive as possible. If it supports trees too rigidly, it can inhibit trunk growth and development. Trunks that are able to move somewhat with breezes will be stronger. If binding remains necessary, it should be as loose as possible. It constricts as trunks expand. Ultimately, as trees mature, staking and binding become unnecessary, and should be removed.