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Flowers For Late Summer Bloom

There are plenty of late flowers.

Most flowers bloom within their particular seasons. Many bloom for spring. Fewer bloom for winter. Only a few bloom randomly throughout the year, generally while the weather is warm. Several bloom specifically for late summer or into autumn. All have their particular reasons for blooming when they do. It is all about pollination and dispersal of their seed.

Most flowers bloom in spring to maximize the time for their seed to develop before winter. Some of these may begin to bloom even before early spring, in late winter. Many rely on wind for pollination, so are unconcerned about pollinators. Those that attract pollinators are bigger, more colorful, or perhaps fragrant. They wait for pollinators to become active.

Many flowers that bloom randomly throughout the year are actually from milder climates. Some are from tropical climates. Within their native ecosystems, they can disperse seed at any time. Also, their pollinators are as perpetually active as they are. Angel’s trumpet, for example, only stops blooming for cool winter weather. it is presently blooming nicely.

Canna similarly begins to bloom for late spring, and continues to bloom until autumn. It is from a tropical climate, so is more responsive to weather than to seasons. It could bloom as long as the weather is warm enough for it to do so. Like angel’s trumpet, it is presently blooming nicely. Several popular sages are likewise naturally native to tropical climates.

Several late summer flowers happen to be of the ‘Compositae’ Family. Their flowers are actually composite blooms of many tiny flowers. These include confelower, zinnia, aster, cosmos, blanket flower and black eyed Susan. Coreopsis, sneezeweed, cosmos, dahlia and sunflower are more examples. Chrysanthemum will become more seasonable later.

To be enjoying these flowers now, it would have been better to plant them earlier. Some are still available in bloom from nurseries. Potted dahlias are particularly nice. However, most perform best if they can grow into their situations prior to blooming. Sunflower grow best from seed sown immediately after winter. Those with big flowers need time to grow.

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Fragrance Is Really For Pollinators

Angel’s trumpet is fragrant but prominent.

Many flowers are fragrant. Many are colorful. Several are both. The majority, though, are neither. That is because flowers use fragrance and color only to attract pollinators. Most flowers rely on wind for pollination, so do not need to attract pollinators. Such flowers are not so conspicuous, though. Fragrance and color are much more prominent and popular.

Most prominently colorful flowers are not very fragrant. They do not need to be. Flowers can use one technique or the other, fragrance or color, to attract pollinators. They do not need to waste resources on redundancy. Hibiscus, dahlia, sunflower, daisy, camellia and canna all lack floral fragrance. Yet, they efficiently attract pollinators with their floral color.

Most prominently fragrant flowers are similarly not very colorful. Night blooming jasmine, sweet box and sweet osmanthus produce small white flowers. Yet, they efficiently attract pollinators with their floral fragrance. Gardenia is more colorful only because its blooms are larger. Star jasmine is more colorful only because its blooms are much more profuse.

Victorian box and mock orange also bloom with fragrant but subdued flowers about now. Most angel’s trumpet blooms with fragrant but impressively large flowers in pastel colors. Hyacinth, narcissus, freesia and lily flowered both fragrantly and colorfully last spring. So did wisteria and pink jasmine. Daphne flowers are diminutive but fragrant for next winter.

Modern roses and some bearded iris are not as fragrant as some old cultivars. Many lack fragrance altogether. This is generally because fragrance had not been a priority of their breeding. Both roses and bearded iris now bloom with bolder flowers, which last longer. Roses bloom for a longer season, instead of only once. Fragrance was the compromise.

Floral fragrances are as diverse as the pollinators that they attract. This is because, like floral color, they appeal to particular pollinators. A few appeal to a single specific species of pollinator. Several flowers disperse their fragrance at night for nocturnal moths or bats. Most flowers, though, are receptive to pollinators that they do not intentionally appeal to.

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Stakes Should Stabilize New Trees

Binding should subordinate to staking.

Initially after planting, many new trees and some large shrubs rely on stakes for stability. Some limber trees also need temporary structural support for thin trunks. Staking is only necessary until confined roots disperse and young trunks mature. Then, trees and large shrubbery stand on their own. Stakes help with the transition from nursery to landscape.

Different trees require different types of stakes. Palm trees need none at all. Spruce trees are likewise stout enough to stand alone. Camphor trees, though, typically need staking both for structural integrity and stability. Landscape stakes provide stability while nursery stakes provide trunk integrity. For most trees, landscape stakes displace nursery stakes.

Landscape stakes are those that loosely support new trees within their new landscapes. Nursery stakes, if present, are those that direct straight trunk growth in nurseries. Binding to nursery stakes inhibits trunk expansion, though. Therefore, it is better to remove them as soon as possible. This should occur after planting and staking with landscape stakes.

Landscape stakes, for adequate stability, should extend below roots of associated trees. This puts them into the solid undisturbed soil below the excavated soil. Also, they should be about as high as the lowest branches of their associated trees. For shrubbery and low branched trees, they should be about five feet high. Stakes are in standardized lengths.

One stake is adequate for some small trees. Other larger trees may justify two. Likewise, one top strap for each stake may be adequate. Secondary straps about halfway between top straps and the ground might be useful. They minimize bowing of limber trunks. Short nails can hold straps in place. Straps should cross over between their stakes and trees.

Staking should be as unobtrusive as possible. If it supports trees too rigidly, it can inhibit trunk growth and development. Trunks that are able to move somewhat with breezes will be stronger. If binding remains necessary, it should be as loose as possible. It constricts as trunks expand. Ultimately, as trees mature, staking and binding become unnecessary, and should be removed.

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Potted Plants Within Home Gardens

Philodendrons are famously adaptable to potting.

Potted plants would rather be in the ground. That is the simplest truth. Pots confine roots that would prefer to disperse more extensively into natural soil. Yet, container gardening is more popular than ever, for various reasons. Planters and pots happen to be practical for many situations. They allow cultivation of plants that require special accommodation.

Houseplants, for example, can only inhabit their homes as potted plants. There is no soil for them to disperse roots into. Cascading plants, like Boston ferns and pothos, can only cascade from elevated pots. Several popular houseplants live only as houseplants here. They might be too vulnerable to winter weather to live in the garden throughout the year.

Potted plants are also practical for balconies and elevated decks. Some condominiums, townhomes and apartments have no more garden space than that. Regardless of garden space, pots contain invasive plants, like mint and horseradish. Bamboo popularly grows in big tubs that it can not escape from. Also, pots protect vulnerable plants from gophers.

Portability is a primary advantage of potted plants. Where winters are cool, potted plants that are vulnerable to frost can relocate to shelter. Plants such as cymbidium orchids can move to more prominent sites while blooming. Then, they can go to less prominent sites when they finish. Potted plants can move about on patios and decks like patio furniture.

There are also a few disadvantages to potted plants, though. They are always reliant on watering. Confinement of roots limits the drought tolerance of otherwise drought tolerant plants. Thin plastic pots can get uncomfortably warm in full sun exposure. They can also get quite cool during cool weather. Pots can rot wooden decks and stain concrete patios.

Conventional pots are wider on top and narrower at their bases for a reason. This shape allows firm root systems to slide out for planting in the ground or bigger pots. Such roots can not slide out of pots that are wider in the middle than on top. Pots with narrower tops are practical only for small plants, like annuals. Such plants do not develop sturdy roots.

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Fruit Trees Versus Shade Trees

Excessive fruit can become a problem.

Why are more urban shade trees not fruit trees? Urban landscapes could produce much more food than they already do. It could be so nice to be able to pick fresh fruit from trees in parks or flanking streets. After all, this region formerly sustained orchards of fruit trees. It could certainly sustain more fruit trees again. Why waste space on mere shade trees?

Many cities in California sustain more trees than they naturally did prior to urbanization. Both San Jose and Los Angeles were chaparral grassland with only isolated woodlands. Their urban trees are now more numerous than native trees were only two centuries ago. The same applies to several urban areas, including San Diego, Bakersfield and Fresno.

Trees are not only more abundant than they naturally were. They are also more practical. They perform specific functions. Those that are street trees must develop high canopies, and need minimal maintenance. Those in parks must be broad enough to create shade. For many reasons, fruit trees are impractical for such applications in public landscapes.

Fruit trees generally require significantly more maintenance than typical shade trees do. Deciduous fruit trees require specialized dormant pruning each winter. Without adequate pruning, their limbs become overburdened with fruit and break. Such pruning is very time consuming. It also necessitates cordoning off space below trees during the procedures.

Also, fruit trees are significantly lower than shade trees. This facilitates both specialized pruning, as well as collection of fruit. Street trees and most shade trees are much higher for clearance below. With the same clearance, particularly over roadways, fruit would be out of reach. Limbs that are low enough to produce fruit within reach would be obtrusive.

Fruit that is out of reach becomes messy below. For street trees, it becomes a slip hazard on paved surfaces. Furthermore, fruit attracts unwanted wildlife, including rats, raccoons and opossums. Ultimately, trees selection should be appropriate to specific applications. Fruit trees are better within private home gardens. Shade trees should not produce fruit.

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Roots Are A Necessary Compromise

Surface roots can be very aggressive.

With very few exceptions, all plants have roots. Almost all roots remain out of view within soil or potting media. Consequently, they do not get much consideration or credit for their important functions. They stabilize and collect nutrients for the plants that disperse them. They are as diverse and specialized as the stems and foliage of the plants they sustain.

Naturally, large plants like trees and big shrubbery disperse their roots very extensively. They must in order to obtain the nutrients and moisture they need to sustain themselves. In home gardens, though, they do not need to disperse their roots nearly as extensively. With watering and maybe fertilization, they can obtain what they need relatively closely.

Roots of domestic trees and shrubs are therefore more confined than those of wild trees. They are also closer to the surface of the soil. Roots of plants that prefer better drainage will not disperse very deeply. Unfortunately, some are likely to displace infrastructure on the surface of the soil. They damage sidewalks, curbs, driveways, and even foundations.

Repair of such damage typically involves removing or at least severing the causal roots. Severing substantial roots can be stressful to their associated trees or shrubs. It can also destabilize them. Some of such trees and shrubs may actually require complete removal. Future damage is somewhat avoidable by simply planting appropriate trees and shrubs.

Near pavement, appropriate trees should innately exhibit complaisant root systems. For trees that have potential to damage nearby concrete, root barriers might be useful. Root barriers are rigid plastic devices that surround the root systems of new trees. They direct root growth downward. Most extend into the soil two feet deep, but are open underneath.

Other types of root barrier are available for established trees. They are either flexible but firm plastic flashing, or fabric studded with herbicide pellets. They too extend into the soil two feet deep. After trenching to cut damaging roots next to pavement, a root barrier goes into the trench. Filling the trench holds the barrier in place to redirect encroaching roots.

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Sunlight Is Necessary For Photosynthesis

All home garden plants require sunlight.

Almost every plant needs sunlight. Only parasitic plants that lack chlorophyll are the few exceptions. Even they rely on plants that need sunlight to conduct photosynthesis. Some plants require full sun exposure, while others tolerate some degree of shade. Actually, a few plants prefer partial shade. Situating plants accordingly promotes their performance.

Modern home gardens are generally shadier than older home gardens. They are smaller and surrounded by larger homes and fences. Taller fences, taller hedges and evergreen trees obscure adjacent homes. They also produce more shade. Plants that tolerate some degree of shading have consequently become more popular. They require less sunlight.

Most of such plants are understory plants. In their natural habitats, they live in the partial shade of larger plants and trees. They should do the same within home gardens. Ferns, philodendrons, alocasias, colocasias and Natal lily are a few examples. They are some of the few plants that actually prefer partial shade. They can roast with too much sunlight.

Azaleas, rhododendrons, andromedas and hydrangeas are also understory plants. They prefer a bit more sunlight than the other examples, though. They like eastern exposures, where they get plenty of sunlight, but only in the morning. Then, they are in partial shade as the weather gets warmer after noon. However, some can tolerate more sun exposure.

Oleander, bougainvillea, lavender, lily of the Nile and agaves are the opposite. They like full sun exposure as well as warmth. Unshaded southern and western exposures are no problem for them. Shade inhibits their performance, and promotes thin etiolated growth. Most yuccas and cacti require sunlight and warmth, but can be difficult to accommodate.

Northern exposures are the shadiest. Southern exposures are the sunniest and warmest. Both eastern and western exposures are partly shady, but eastern exposures are cooler. They get all their sunlight prior to noon, while western exposures get all theirs after noon. Big eaves extend shade. Deciduous trees shade during summer, but not through winter.

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Wildlife Also Enjoys Summer Fruit

Plums are very appealing to wildlife.

So much summer fruit is now in season. Most cherries have finished, but apricots, plums and prunes are still ripening. Nectarines and peaches will ripen immediately after them. Almonds will be the earliest nuts to ripen later in August or so. Birds, squirrels and other wildlife are eagerly watching and waiting. If they have not stolen fruit yet, they likely will.

Fruit appeals to wildlife like flowers do. Flowers employ attractive colors and fragrances to appeal to wildlife that pollinates them. Many reward such pollinators, which are mostly insects and hummingbirds, with nectar. Similarly, fruit uses attractive colors and aromas to lure wildlife that disperses its seed. Such fruit is compensation for this important work.

It is therefore only natural for wildlife to damage or abscond with fruit from home gardens. Such wildlife includes squirrels or various birds, or perhaps rats, opossums or raccoons. Protecting ripening fruit from them can be daunting. For some situations, it may not even be possible. Typically, wildlife takes only some fruit. However, sometimes, it ruins all of it.

Protection of fruit requires some familiarity with whomever exploits it. Squirrels and birds are visible as they are active during the day. Opossums, raccoons and rats are nocturnal, so are not visible during the day. Opossums and rats tend to nibble fruit but leave it on its stems. Raccoons tend to take fruit off trees to eat on the ground, leaving bits and pieces.

Bird netting can exclude birds, but is difficult to install, and almost impossible to remove. If effective for the particular birds, flash tape is an easier and more practical option. Fake owls or snakes deter both birds and squirrels. Relocation every few days improves their credibility. Because they are unfamiliar, plush toys may be as effective to deter squirrels.

Tree trunk baffles can protect fruit from opossums and raccoons. However, they are only effective if there is no other access from adjacent trees or fences. Rosemary, lavender or mint around fruit trees can supposedly be a minor deterrent. Not much deters a raccoon, though, once fruit starts to ripen. Electric fencing can be effective, but is not so practical.

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Perennials Should Have Staying Power

Common daylily is a popular perennial.

The definition of perennial is vague. Technically, it refers to anything that persists for any significant time. This should include trees, shrubbery and vines. Horticulturally, though, it refers to persistent species that lack any woody parts. Even this definition is vague, as it includes ferns, palms, yuccas and succulents. Perennials certainly are a diverse group.

Annuals are not perennials, since they finish their respective life cycles within one year. However, most annuals have potential to perform as perennials. They merely do not get opportunities to do so as other annuals become more seasonal. Biennials complete their life cycles within two years, so also do not qualify. Persistent bulbs might qualify, though.

Canna, for example, grows from thick and fleshy rhizomes that qualify as summer bulbs. Once established they are resiliently persistent. They proliferate and can migrate as they do so. Calla and various ginger do the same. All are easy to propagate by division while more or less dormant. They defoliate where winters are colder, but regenerate for spring.

Lily of the Nile is among the most popular and common perennials. It is very resilient and persistent. It does not need much attention or water, and is very easy to propagate. Even without bloom, its evergreen foliage is appealing. African iris, or fortnight lily, is probably the second most common perennial. It requires a bit more grooming than lily of the Nile.

New Zealand flax is a bigger perennial, although some cultivars are relatively compact. It is more foliar than floral, since its thin floral stalks are not as striking as its bold foliage. Daylily is among the more floriferous perennials, with bright yellow, orange or red bloom. Beard tongue is another efflorescent perennial, but with white, pink, red or purple bloom.

These are merely a few examples of the most locally popular and practical of perennials. This list should also include hosta, coral bell, yarrow, Shasta daisy and various salvias. It is impossible to mention all of the perennials that perform well here. Although most are evergreen, some are deciduous. Most need irrigation while some can actually naturalize.

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Soil Is More Than Dirt

Amendment makes good soil even better.

Weeds are plants that grow wildly where they are undesirable. Therefore, all weeds are plants, but not all plants are weeds. Similarly, dirt is soil or similar substances where it is undesirable. Therefore, some dirt is soil, but soil is not necessarily dirt. The assumption that soil is dirt is disrespectful to the foundation of the garden. Roots know the difference.

Roots are experts in regard to soil because they inhabit it. They must disperse through it to procure nutrients and water, and to conduct respiration. They also provide stability for their associated stems and foliage above. Various soils are naturally diverse. Vegetation is more diverse to exploit them. Not many soils can not sustain some type of vegetation.

Soil, most simply, is the loose aggregates on the surfaces of most land. Loose is relative, since some soils are dense and quite hard. The inorganic aggregates range in size from microscopic clay particles to coarse sand. Most soils include small stones. Some include significant stones. Almost all soils contain organic material. Exposed bedrock lacks soil.

The texture of a soil is its ratio of the three basic components, sand, silt and clay. Sandy soils drain efficiently, but do not retain moisture as well as dense clay soils do. Clay soils retain more moisture, but do not drain as efficiently. Like climates, soils limit what grows well in a garden. Although local soils are of good quality, some benefit from amendment.

Soil amendments, such as compost, may improve both drainage and moisture retention. They also improve aeration and, as they decompose, they generate additional nutrients. Such organic amendments are helpful with the installation of new plants. They promote healthy dispersion of roots. They are also particularly useful for annuals and vegetables.

Fertilizers promote growth by providing more of the nutrients that the soil provides. Each nutrient promotes different types of growth. For example, phosphorus promotes floral and fruit growth. Nitrogen promotes vegetative growth. The formulation of synthetic fertilizers is very precise for specific results. Organic fertilizers can be less potent, but are effective.