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Autumn Foliar Color That Shines

Several species color splendidly for autumn.

Autumn is known as fall for a reason. It is when foliage falls from deciduous plants. It is, of course, more interesting than that. Some deciduous foliage first provides spectacular autumn foliar color. Formerly green foliage turns bright yellow, orange, red or even dark purply red. Even some shades of brown are visually appealing as the weather changes.

All sorts of deciduous plants develop autumn foliar color. They can be shrubbery, vines, groundcovers or even perennials. The biggest and best are deciduous trees. Deciduous plants may seem to be messy, but that is only because they shed all at once. Many are tidy after autumn. Evergreen plants shed also but do so slower through longer seasons.

Sweetgum, or liquidambar, is likely the most familiar tree to produce autumn foliar color. It is also one of the messier deciduous trees. That is only because it does not shed all at once. Instead, it retains much of its color through autumn and perhaps into winter. Spiky seed capsules can become a nuisance among mature trees. Roots can be aggressive.

Chinese pistache is as colorful, with bright yellow, orange and red autumn foliar color. It seems to be a bit less messy because it sheds more efficiently. This means that it does not retain its color as late into autumn or winter. Its pinnately compound leaves fall apart into individual leaflets. These smaller leaflets take more effort to rake than larger leaves.

Ginkgo lacks orange and red autumn foliar color but excels at vividly bright yellow. It is a stately tree with tall and slender form. Modern cultivars are exclusively male, so can not generate messy and stinky fruit. While young, their roots are reasonably docile, which is why they are popular street trees. Ginkgo can defoliate prematurely, particularly in rain.

Although some deciduous plants do not develop autumn foliar color, several do. Quite a few options are available. Flowering pear and crape myrtle provide both foliar color and showy bloom. Flowering pear blooms white for spring. Crape myrtle blooms with various bright colors for summer. Boston ivy is a clinging vine that provides autumn foliar color. Smokebush is a big deciduous shrub that develops splendid color for autumn.

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Spring Bulbs Start In Autumn

Plan now for certain spring flowers.

Autumn is time for planting. This does not apply to all plants, but is certainly relevant to spring bulbs. Many have been available from nurseries for a while already. They all are dormant by late summer or early autumn. So, they are unaware of their relocation from their farms to home gardens. They will learn about it when the resume growth next year.

Actually, though, spring bulbs begin growth sooner than that. It merely does not become visible until foliage emerges above its soil after midwinter. Roots begin to disperse when their soil is dampened either by irrigation or rain. Growth is initially slow because of cool autumn and winter weather. It accelerates as weather warms, as spring replaces winter.

Spring bulbs know how the seasons change from temperature. They adjust their growth accordingly. They know that they can disperse roots early. They delay other growth until after a specific duration of cool weather, or vernalization. From the nursery, many spring bulbs are prechilled, or already vernalized. That is why they are so conducive to forcing.

Summer bulbs prefer later planting because they do not need vernalization to bloom. In fact, some are susceptible to rot if they must overwinter in cool and damp soil. They are more resilient once established, after their first summer. These include gladiola, canna, calla, dahlia, tuberous begonia and most lily. They become available after spring bulbs.

Because winter is so mild here, some spring bulbs are unreliable after their first season. They may not receive the degree of chilling, or vernalization, that they require. Hyacinth and tulip, for examples, may bloom only once for their first spring. Afterward, they might not be reliably perennial. Dutch iris and Dutch crocus are only somewhat more reliable.

Freesia and narcissus, including daffodil, are some of the most reliable of spring bulbs. Within favorable conditions, they can multiply and slowly migrate. Grape hyacinth might actually become slightly invasive. Ranunculus and anemone may be reliably perennial, but may not bloom much. Bluebells are supposedly very reliable but remain uncommon.

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Family Trees For All Plants

Sequoia sempervirens of the family Cupressaceae.

Botanical nomenclature is a standardized system of naming plants. It can be confusing since it is all Latin. Some of it is Latinized from other languages or is Latinized names of botanists. For home garden applications, it includes the name of a genus and a species. Variety names are more specific. A less specific botanical classification is that of family.

Hence, varieties are classifications within a species. Species are classifications within a genus. Genera (which is plural for genus) are classifications within a family. It should be no wonder why common names are more common than botanical names. However, the problem with common names is that they are regionally variable. They are not universal.

Taxonomy is the standardized system of classification for all biological organisms. It can be more involved or confusing than nomenclature. Families fit into orders, which fit into classes, which fit into divisions, which fit into kingdoms. Any average garden enthusiast certainly does not need to know all these categories. Such is for professional botanists.

Familiarity with certain botanical families might be useful, though. It provides insight into characteristics of some or most members of particular families. Different species of one genus are generally similar to each other. Similarly, different genera of one family might be similar to each other. Such similarities are not likely as obvious, but they are helpful.

For example, coastal redwood, or Sequoia sempervirens is of the family Cupressaceae. All members of this family are coniferous. With only three exceptions, all are evergreen. Incense cedar, or Calocedrus decurrens, is also of the extensive family Cupressaceae. Therefore, without prior experience, it is easy to assume that it is an evergreen conifer.

Some families are very diverse, though. The Rosaceae family includes strawberries and apples, which do not seem related. The Cactaceae family is famously endemic to desert climates. However, several of its genera are conversely endemic to tropical rain forests. Therefore, expertise with botanical families is useful for some but not all generalizations.

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Autumn Is Time For Planting

Autumn is time for spring bulbs.

“Autumn is for planting.” This is a common marketing campaign among nurseries at this time of year. Also, it is generally true. Of course, as with most generalizations, there are some exceptions. Bare root season is during winter. Summer bulbs prefer planting after the coldest weather of winter. Many species nonetheless prefer planting during autumn.

Cooling weather is less stressful for new plants while they begin to disperse their roots. Yet, the soil is still warm enough to promote healthy root dispersion. Later, rain will keep the soil evenly moist and provide all the moisture new plants need. Even if growth is not evident above the soil, it is probably active below. Roots grow until cold winter weather.

Simultaneously, most common pathogens and weeds are less vigorous during autumn. Many diseases need spring and summer warmth to proliferate. Insects are similarly less active now that the weather is cooler. Although weeds have dispersed their seed, some of it will not grow until next year. New plants can have the whole garden to themselves.

Planting in autumn gives the plants an advantage next spring too. Although they appear dormant through winter, they slowly continue to disperse roots. By spring, their roots are more dispersed than they would be if planted in spring. They are ready to grow as soon as the weather warms after winter. There is less delay to disperse their sustaining roots.

Many bulbs and bulb like plants are naturally dormant by late summer or early autumn. Spring bulbs, such as daffodil, hyacinth, crocus, tulip and allium, will soon be in season. Not only are they dormant, but some also bloom better after vernalization by winter chill. Bearded iris are already dormant and ready for division. So are many larger perennials.

Because some plants are dormant or visually tired by now, some nurseries have sales. This could be a good time to purchase certain items at a discount. Daylily is an example of a perennial that begins to defoliate about now. Nurseries do not want to keep them in stock while they are dormant and mostly bare. New foliage develops shortly after winter.

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Autumn Weather Eventually Becomes Cooler

Some foliage turns color for autumn.

Cool season vegetables and cool season annuals might still seem early. The weather is not yet notably cool, although it is not as warm as it was for summer. Nevertheless, it is now autumn. The weather will become increasingly cooler and eventually rainier before winter. Plant growth will decelerate. Some foliage will become both colorful and messy.

As the weather cools, irrigation will become less demanding. Evapotranspiration, which is evaporation from foliage, decreases substantially. Deciduous plants defoliate, so can not transpire. Evaporation from soil also decreases. Rain will dampen everything that is not under a roof later in autumn. Then, irrigation will be redundant until the rain pauses.

Rain later in autumn typically accompanies storms. Stormy weather can damage trees, or potentially destabilize some. It is therefore important to address arboricultural issues now, prior to stormy weather. Arborists will be busy later, so may not be able to respond to emergencies immediately. After autumn, winter storms can be even more destructive.

As plant growth decelerates, pruning and mowing will become less necessary. Hedging may not be necessary again until growth resumes in spring. Late pruning can stimulate new growth. Such growth would be susceptible to damage from stormier winter weather later. Rain might sometimes delay lawn mowing, which should be less frequent anyway.

Some deciduous foliage becomes colorful as the weather cools and the nights lengthen. Even more of it becomes messy. As autumn progresses, it necessitates raking from turf and hardscapes. Unraked foliar debris causes mildew within lawns, and shades out the grass. Foliage also stains hardscapes, clogs drainage, and becomes a slipping hazard.

Gardening certainly evolves with the seasons. Some tasks become less demanding for autumn, or unnecessary. Others become more important. This autumn may precede an extreme El Nino winter. It is therefore advisable not to neglect garden maintenance as it becomes necessary. Minor concerns can become major when the weather gets stormy.

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Successive Planting Prolongs Vegetable Harvest

Productive vegetables can become overwhelmingly abundant.

Cool season vegetables are now becoming seasonable. Regardless of warm weather, it is technically autumn, so the weather will get cooler. It might be tempting to sow all seed and plant all seedlings for vegetables at once. There should be no rush, though. Spring is half a year from now. Until then, successive planting can prolong vegetable harvests.

Successive planting entails cultivation of small crops throughout their seasons. The first vegetable crops, or groups, should begin as soon as they are seasonal. The last should finish at about the end of their seasons. Various vegetables grow at various rates. Some begin or finish earlier or later than others. Timing should not be too complicated, though.

Each crop of vegetables should ideally finish production as its subsequent crop begins. The typical duration of production should determine the frequency of subsequent crops. For example, each beet crop is productive for about two weeks. Each subsequent crop should therefore begin two weeks after its preceding crop. Production can last all winter.

Successive planting is not merely for cool season vegetables. It is as effective for warm season vegetables, and some spring and summer bulbs. The earliest cool season crops can replace the first warm season crops to finish. The process continues for weeks until the cool season vegetables replace all others. There is no rush for successive planting.

Large vegetables, such as broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage, require more space. They also require fewer crops because they mature relatively slowly. Successive planting for them may involve only one early crop and one late crop. Each crop might be productive for more than a month. Individual plants within each crop might mature at different rates.

Cucumber and pea are actually fruits rather than vegetables. Their vines are productive until they succumb to the weather. Those that start now may produce until the middle of winter. Those that start after the middle winter may produce until spring. Therefore, two crops may be the extent of their successive planting. One may suffice for mild climates. Cucumbers are actually warm season vegetables that grow for autumn and early spring.

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Cool Season Vegetables Are Back

Cool season vegetables are now seasonable.

Cool season annuals are a clue. They are currently replacing deteriorating warm season annuals. Vegetable gardening should involve a similar process. After all, most vegetable plants are annuals. Some of those that performed through summer are now getting tired. Cool season vegetables, or winter vegetables, should replace warm season vegetables.

Just like different flowering annuals, different vegetables operate on different schedules. Some warm season vegetables finish late in summer. Others continue until autumn chill. Some cool season vegetables prefer to start early, while the weather is still warm. Others can start late to grow through winter. The transition may continue through part of autumn.

Furthermore, different phases of some vegetables begin and finish at different times. For example, most corn is finished for summer. However, some late phases can continue for early autumn. Early phases of beet can begin now. Later phases might continue through winter. Summer vegetables should relinquish space as cool season vegetables need it.

Most cool season vegetables are true vegetables. In other words, they are not fruit which contain seeds, like tomato, squash and corn. Cabbage and Chard are distended foliage. Broccoli and cauliflower are distended floral bloom. Carrot and beet are distended roots. All initially grow slower than warm season vegetables, but then do not take time to ripen.

All cool season vegetables that are roots should grow from directly sown seed. They are susceptible to disfigurement with transplanting. Besides, they typically grow in quantities that are excessive for transplanting. They include beet, radish, turnip, carrot and parsnip. Cucumber and pea are conducive to transplanting, but also grow very easily from seed.

Cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower and heading lettuces are larger cool season vegetables. Since only a few are desirable, planting them as cell pack seedlings is a practical option. They happen to be more conducive to transplanting than root vegetables are. Seedlings of cool season vegetables are now available from nurseries. Seed are always available. Although seedlings start growing sooner, more varieties are available from seed.

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Cool Season Annuals Are Back

Cool season annuals are now seasonable.

Warm season annuals may not seem ready to relinquish their space. Although some are beginning to get tired after a season of performance, some are not. They might be happy to continue blooming until cooler winter weather. Bedding plants are temporary, though. The time for winter annuals, or cool season annuals, to have their turn is now beginning.

There is no rush, though. Only cool season annuals that begin as seed must do so while the weather is still warm. Most begin as cell pack seedlings, so can, if necessary, wait for a little while longer. Some actually prefer to begin later in autumn. Ornamental kales and cyclamens can wait until winter. Various cool season annuals are on various schedules.

Besides, various warm season annuals are also on various schedules. Some deteriorate sooner than others. Ideally, their replacement should coincide with the beginning of their deterioration. Some are already deteriorating, so are ready for their replacement. Others, though, can perform until cooler autumn weather. Their replacement is generally sooner.

Some annuals, both warm season and cool season, are actually perennial. They merely perform as annuals because replacement is easier than salvage. They likely get shabby during their off season, but can have potential to survive. Wax begonias, for example are warm season annuals. They get tired through winter but can survive until the next spring.

On small scales, cool season annuals can coexist with overwintering wax begonias. For example, pansies can partially obscure tired wax begonias through winter. In spring, the wax begonias may regenerate to replace the pansies. Sweet Williams and primroses are cool season annuals that are actually perennials. They can survive through the summer.

Pansies and violas are the most familiar and reliable of cool season annuals. Marigolds, calendulas, and snapdragons are popular autumn annuals. Cyclamens and ornamental kales can replace them later for winter. Stocks are notably fragrant cool season annuals. Alyssums can begin about now and continue into next summer, as if they are perennials. Iceland poppies are nice for pots and smaller plantings. Cornflowers are nice wildflowers for cutting.

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Trellises And Arbors Provide Support

Boston ivy climbs without a trellis.

Vines are very diverse. A few are annuals. A few are perennials. Many are woody vines. Some climb by twining their stems, leaves or tendrils. Some cling onto their support with aerial roots or suction discs. Within home gardens, some need the support of trellises or arbors. Most vines are naturally aggressive, so should get all the support that they need.

Vines that cling onto their supports with roots or suction discs need no trellises or arbors. They climb regardless. English ivy clings with aerial roots. Boston ivy clings with suction discs. Both can be destructive to their support. They ruin paint and promote rot in wood. Therefore, they should only climb surfaces that they can not damage, such as concrete.

Vines that climb by twining their stems, leaves or tendrils are the sorts that need support. On trellises, some can cover otherwise bare walls or fences, or stand freely like hedges. On arbors, vines frame gateways. On pergolas, they mostly shade patios like small trees. Vines are not low maintenance, though. Actually, they require specialized maintenance.

Vines, by nature, seek the top of their support, where they grow the most. Consequently, vines on trellises tend to get top heavy. Carolina jessamine, lilac vine and mandevilla all need grooming to limit upper growth. Then, their lower growth is fuller and more uniform. Star jasmine is naturally more uniform, but even it may get somewhat overgrown on top.

Upper overgrowth may not be so undesirable on arbors or pergolas. However, pruning is as important. Grapevines need annual dormant pruning during winter. Such pruning is a bit more complicated at the height of a pergola. Wisteria can be spectacular on pergolas. It needs aggressive pruning, though, so that it will not become too overgrown and heavy.

Bougainvillea is one of several vines that does not actively climb. It requires guidance to follow trellises or arbors, or to reach the top of pergolas. Then, it needs frequent pruning to avoid overgrowth. Its various cultivars behave differently, though. Some stay compact enough for small trellises and arbors. Some grow large enough for substantial pergolas.

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Sustainable Plants Need No Introduction

Lemon bottlebrush is resilient and sustainable.

Neglected gardens demonstrate sustainability more effectively than maintained gardens. They display that which survives with minimal intervention. Also, that which requires too much intervention does not survive. Weeds are obviously too sustainable. They seem to survive anything. Desirable annuals are the opposite extreme, so do not survive for long.

Sustainable horticulture, excluding weeds, has become a fad. Unlike most fads, though, it is actually quite practical and sensible. In theory, it is horticulture that requires minimal intervention. It excludes what requires impractically intensive cultivation. Native species that grow wild, for example, are sustainable. Overly demanding tropical species are not.

A common problem with such fads is their marketability. They are too easy to exploit. Any commodity might be marketed as sustainable, whether or not it actually is. Sustainability sells. Realistically, in lucrative marketing, sustainability is unsustainable. It compromises any later needs for subsequent sales. Planned obsolescence is actually more lucrative.

Modern cultivars are not necessarily more sustainable than old cultivars. Simple species are generally more sustainable than their hybrids. Extensive breeding can cause genetic deficiencies. Variegation compromises vigor, and can revert. For example, New Zealand flax is generally sustainable. However, some of its variegated cultivars commonly revert.

Again, native species are technically sustainable. They can survive without irrigation or intervention. However, in gardens that receive generous irrigation, some are susceptible to rot. Therefore, they are less sustainable for such situations. Also, some native species are not good options if combustibility is a concern. Sustainability involves many factors.

Many of the most common and passe plants happen to be the most sustainable. That is why they are common and passe. Lily of the Nile, African iris and many yuccas are some of the most sustainable perennials. Juniper, oleander and lemon bottlebrush are among the most sustainable woody shrubs. Realistically, there are far too many examples to list.