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Gopher Purge

Caustic sap deters gophers.

The common name may be derived from ‘gopher spurge’, since Euphorbia lathyris is within the family of plants known as ‘spurge’, and it is also purported to ‘purge’ the garden of gophers and moles. Like all related spurge, it has caustic opaque white sap that is very irritating to the skin and toxic if ingested. This offensive sap prevents anything from burrowing through the roots, but unfortunately does not prevent gophers and moles from going around. Therefore, a garden that is adequately protected may also be crowded by gopher purge.

Individual plants live for only two years, but produce enough seed to seem like perennials. Their mostly solitary stems can grow to nearly five feet tall with foliage that spreads up to a foot wide in the first year. Tiny yellow flowers that bloom in the second summer are not remarkable; and can set seed without getting much notice before the plant dies. Gopher purge can naturalize without becoming too invasive in regularly moist or somewhat shady parts of the garden. It prefers to be watered occasionally in drier and sunnier areas.

The foliage of gopher purge is strikingly symmetrical. Each pair of grayish or bluish green leaves is perpendicular to the pairs above and below it, in a four ranked pattern. Except for the newest upper leaves, each leaf pair is also arranged in a generally horizontal plane, perpendicular to the vertical stem. Gopher purge seems to have been assembled in the garden instead of grown there.

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Spring in Guadalupe Gardens

Spring is in the air.

(This article is recycled from many years ago, so contains outdated information.)

Spring in Guadalupe Gardens on April 23 is the big local gardening event of the Santa Clara Valley! Not only will it be within Guadalupe Park, surrounded by the various Guadalupe Gardens, but Spring in Guadalupe Gardens gathers together an impressive variety of local gardening clubs and vendors. There will be workshops, lectures, trail walks and garden tours, as well as fun activities for children, music and entertainment.

The Heritage Rose Garden, which is the most extensive public collection in the United States of America, designed for the preservation of the ancestors of modern roses, will be in full bloom. The Historic Orchard is a tree museum of the many fruit and nut trees that inhabited the vast orchards that once filled the Santa Clara Valley; many of which can be productive in modern suburban gardens.

Representatives of many local gardening clubs will be at Spring in Guadalupe Gardens, with information about their respective expertise, as well as membership. The John E. Stowell Dahlia Society, the American Fuchsia Society and the Master Gardeners of Santa Clara County will all be there, to name a few. I will be at the Gardening Advice Booth throughout the event, to discuss any gardening issues and questions.

When I can get away from the Gardening Advice Booth, I like to see what I can purchase from the many vendors. There will be more than forty. Most of my fuchsias, and some of my aloes and cacti were obtained at Spring in Guadalupe Gardens. It is common to find many uncommon tomato plants and roses.  There will also be garden art and paraphernalia. The Master Composters of Santa Clara County will be giving away free compost. One never knows what to expect at Spring in Guadalupe Gardens.

Earth Care Recycling will again host a free electronic waste drop off at the Visitor and Education Center, to collect all sorts of computer components, televisions, stereos, fax machines and telephones. Proceeds benefit the Guadalupe River Park Conservancy.

Spring in Guadalupe Gardens will be from 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. this April 23, just north of the Guadalupe Gardens Visitor and Education Center, which is located at 438 Coleman Avenue in San Jose.  Admission and parking are free. Just follow the signs from Coleman Avenue or East Taylor Street. More information about Spring in Guadalupe Gardens can be found at www.grpg.org or by telephoning 298 7657.

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White on Wednesday

Syringa vulgaris ‘Madame LeMoine’ French hybrid lilac bloomed bright white and right on time as March became April, and is not finished yet. It was somewhat of a surprise, since it remains canned until development of the landscape that it should eventually inhabit. It does not grow much while canned, so was not expected to be so spectacular in bloom. It is so spectacular that it was temporarily placed into a prominent position within another landscape, with its can mostly obscured by other vegetation, until it finishes bloom.

However, regardless of how spectacular it is, it reminds me that white is not necessarily the best color for all flowers. White happens to be my favorite color, and lilac happens to be among my favorite early spring flowers, but to me, lilac bloom should be lilac colored. I mean, it really should be that lavender or pastel purple color of traditional and formerly common old fashioned lilacs. The only advantage to this white floral color is that it would be appropriate to situations in which white is the most desirable color, or where lavender is undesirable.

Just as many flowers are at their best in white, some are best with other colors. Southern magnolia, lily of the valley, moonflower, gardenia, Easter lily and old fashioned calla are exclusively white, and would look weird in any other color. Gladiolus, tulip, hyacinth and rose can be all sorts of colors, but happen to excel at white. A few other flowers that can be all sorts of colors happen to not excel at white, such as bougainvillea, crape myrtle, English primrose, tropical hibiscus, wisteria and, of course, lilac. Both white crape myrtle and white bougainvillea happen to have been selected specifically for landscapes here, so perhaps white lilac is not so out of place.

Posted on by tonytomeo · 4 Comments

Californian Blue-Eyed Grass

Blue-eyed grass is not grass.

It is not a grass, and lacks eyes, but it is native to most of California and western Oregon. Blue-eyed grass, Sisyrinchium bellum, is related to iris, which actually sounds ocular. Its tiny flowers are typically rather purplish, but can be clear sky blue, or rarely white. Bloom continues through spring until summer dormancy. All foliage then dies back until autumn.

Blue-eyed grass develops small foliar tufts that expand quite slowly. It propagates easily from division of its thin rhizomes as it resumes growth in autumn. Plugging newly divided rhizomes adjacent to original foliar tufts accelerates expansion. Blue-eyed grass can self sow, but typically does so only sparsely. Its grassy foliage is typically less than a foot tall.

Although native and impressively resilient, blue-eyed grass appreciates a bit of moisture. However, it may never require irrigation, since it is dormant through the summer season. Irrigation might maintain foliage through much of summer, but if excessive, can cause rot. Blue-eyed grass prefers sunny and warm exposure, without contention from other plants.

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Native Species Are Natural Choices

California lilac grows wild throughout California.

Wildflowers are only part of the story. They are happy enough with the chaparral climate here to bloom for spring or summer. A few are naturalized exotic species, though. In other words, they are not native to California. They merely behave like they are, likely because they are from similar climates. Native species are happy here because they are at home.

More than the most abundant wildflowers are native. Many trees, vines, shrubs, annuals and perennials are also. They were here long before Spanish explorers imported the first exotic plants after 1542. They were as satisfied with local soils and climates then as they are now. This is why many are more suitable for home gardens than many exotic plants.

Native plants are less popular than exotic plants only because a few are a bit too natural. Since they are from chaparral climates, some may get a bit scraggly and dry by summer. They survive arid weather by being partially dormant through some of it. Most appreciate irrigation through summer. However, some are susceptible to rot with generous irrigation.

Conversely, there are several advantages to native plant species. They naturally require less irrigation than most exotic species. Once established, some expect none at all. Only species from other chaparral or desert climates might be less demanding. Landscapes of exclusively native species therefore conserve water. Some get all they want from rainfall.

Also, native species are more compatible with natural ecosystems. Any that self sow into nearby wildlands will be where they belong. They do not compete unfairly for pollinators that other native species rely on. Nor do they compete unfairly for possibly limited space and resources. Furthermore, they contribute habitat and sustenance to wild native fauna.

California poppy and sky lupine are probably the most familiar of native annuals. Various salvias and bush lupines may be the most familiar native perennials. California lilac and flannel bush are familiar native shrubs. California sycamore, coastal redwood and coast live oak are familiar native trees. Many native species are practicable for home gardens, and landscaping.

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Six on Saturday: Azaleas 2025

Azaleas make it difficult to limit this post to only six pictures. So many cultivars are now in bloom. However, azaleas also make it easy to comply with suggestion #7 of the Six on Saturday participation guide, which suggests minimal verbiage. There is not much to say about them, since I do not know much about them, or even what cultivars they are. I can only guess the identities of half of them. Even if I could identify the cultivars, I could not identify the species. I only know that all azaleas are of the same genus of Rhododendron. I suppose that, in this regard, they could qualify as a few more of Rhody’s rhodies.

1. ‘Hino Crimson’ happens to look very much like this. The small leaves are dark, but not quite bronzed presently. They were bronzed, but only during the coldest winter weather.

2. ‘Coral Bells’ happens to look very much like this. It is the most common azalea within the landscapes at work, and is remarkably reliable with its remarkably abundant bloom.

3. The bloom of this cultivar seems to be even more abundant because almost none of its foliage is visible beneath it. These flowers are little, but bigger than those of ‘Coral Bells’.

4. This azalea seems to be a ‘florist’ cultivar rather than a landscape cultivar. It was likely left by someone who worked in a nearby office years ago, and then found by a gardener.

5. Within the spacious landscapes here, each cultivar of azalea is installed in groups of at least a few individual specimens. Like the florist azalea, there is only one of this cultivar.

6. ‘Fielder’s White’, which is my favorite of the common azalea cultivars, happens to look very much like this. After restating this phrase thrice, I still can not identify any of these.

This is the link for Six on Saturday, for anyone else who would like to participate: https://thepropagatorblog.wordpress.com/2017/09/18/six-on-saturday-a-participant-guide/

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Manzanita

Manzanita is Spanish for “little apple”.

Mature common manzanita, Arctostaphylos manzanita, can get more than fifteen feet tall and about half as wide, so can be rather large shrubbery or small trees. Pruning away lower growth exposes their interestingly sculptural and smooth cinnamon red stems and trunks. The rather stiff light green leaves make light shade that smaller plants can live with. Waxy pinkish buds bloom into small pendulous clusters of tiny white lantern like flowers as winter becomes spring.

Manzanitas prefer to be neglected. They should not be pruned too much, and certainly should not get shorn. Obtrusive stems should be pruned out completely, since stems that get cut back do not regenerate. New plants should only be watered once or twice weekly through the first summer. Mature plants plants only want to be watered monthly or even less. After all, they are native to the surrounding hillsides, so are very satisfied with annual rainfall.

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Slugs & Snails

hor d’oeuvres

The British Invasion by the Beatles may not have been much of a problem to American gardens; but the French Invasion by brown snails is. Since getting imported as escargot, they eat much more than they get eaten, tearing apart flowers and foliage and devouring young seedlings completely. They tend to hide during the day, and emerge after sunset to graze voraciously until dawn.

Snails as well as slugs are most active this time of year, while the garden is still damp from winter rain, but getting warmer with springtime weather. Fresh vegetation that grows and starts to bloom about now is more than abundant enough to sustain them. Slugs and snails may be slow and ‘sluggish’, but have immense appetites.

Unfortunately, lush foliage that is most susceptible to the wrath of snails and slugs is also the most conducive to their proliferation. Overgrown foliage and plants with large leaves provide plenty of cool damp shade for snails and slugs to hide in during the day. Removing big weeds, fallen leaves and any debris eliminates some of the shelter that they crave while the sun is up.

Snails and slugs are neither elusive nor fast. Hunting them should be easier than it actually is. They are of course easiest to catch while they are out at night. Shallow containers, like saucers for potted plants, containing puddles of beer purportedly get snails to stay out drinking until the sun comes up and roasts them, but this technique is probably more work than it is worth. It wastes beer and seems to catch only a few victims at a time. Besides, the beer gets washed away whenever the garden gets watered.

It is easier and just as sneaky to leave boards or cardboard out overnight for snails and slugs to hide under in the morning, and then surprise the deceived snails and slugs during the day by depriving them of their shelter. They are objectionable to handle, but otherwise easy to collect. Your imagination is probably more useful than any recommendations about how to dispose of them once collected.

Copper tape that can be found in nurseries and hardware stores is a barrier to snails and slugs. It can be self adhesive, or stapled to wooden planter boxes. Plants must be contained within a copper barrier to prevent slugs and snails from getting over the barrier on any plant part that extends within their reach.

Bare copper wire can also be effective. Because trees are actively growing this time of year, copper wire wrapped as a barrier around tree trunks should have some slack, such as a flat ‘S’ shaped curve, to accommodate for trunk expansion.

Salt should not be used to control snails and slugs because it can be harmful to plants. Too much would be needed to surround susceptible plants, and like beer, it would get rinsed away when the protected plants get watered. Keeping drainage saucers filled with water as protective moats for potted plants inhibits drainage, and provides a place for mosquitoes to proliferate.

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Off Color II

Borago officinalis, borage, as I mentioned last October, blooms almost exclusively with blue flowers. At the time though, a few maturing seedlings were blooming with a few pink flowers that eventually were replaced with blue flowers. Now that more are blooming, a few are doing so like this, with white flowers. Also last October, I mentioned that, although white is my favorite color, I expect borage to bloom blue. Not only does blue seem like a more natural color for it, but is also prettier. White borage seems rather mundane. Fortunately, most bloom blue, with enough that bloom white for my own garden, where I am less concerned with how pretty they are. I now wonder if they will be true to type. In other words, I wonder if those that bloom white will produce seed for more that bloom white, or if they will revert to bloom mostly blue. I will take what I get, I suppose. I have not yet found one that I do not like. I would be impressed, or perhaps concerned, by orange bloom, but I seriously doubt that will happen. I should be more concerned with what to do with all these borage seedlings than with their bloom color. I will plant only a few at work, which leaves more than a few for my home garden. Although supposedly not invasive, they are also supposedly proficient with self seeding. Once they get established within my garden, they will likely always be there. I suppose that I should learn to exploit their culinary applications, particularly for those that bloom blue where I do not want them, but perhaps less so for those that bloom white where I do want them. Now I am getting ahead of the situation. After all, they are still just seedlings.