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Slugs & Snails

hor d’oeuvres

The British Invasion by the Beatles may not have been much of a problem to American gardens; but the French Invasion by brown snails is. Since getting imported as escargot, they eat much more than they get eaten, tearing apart flowers and foliage and devouring young seedlings completely. They tend to hide during the day, and emerge after sunset to graze voraciously until dawn.

Snails as well as slugs are most active this time of year, while the garden is still damp from winter rain, but getting warmer with springtime weather. Fresh vegetation that grows and starts to bloom about now is more than abundant enough to sustain them. Slugs and snails may be slow and ‘sluggish’, but have immense appetites.

Unfortunately, lush foliage that is most susceptible to the wrath of snails and slugs is also the most conducive to their proliferation. Overgrown foliage and plants with large leaves provide plenty of cool damp shade for snails and slugs to hide in during the day. Removing big weeds, fallen leaves and any debris eliminates some of the shelter that they crave while the sun is up.

Snails and slugs are neither elusive nor fast. Hunting them should be easier than it actually is. They are of course easiest to catch while they are out at night. Shallow containers, like saucers for potted plants, containing puddles of beer purportedly get snails to stay out drinking until the sun comes up and roasts them, but this technique is probably more work than it is worth. It wastes beer and seems to catch only a few victims at a time. Besides, the beer gets washed away whenever the garden gets watered.

It is easier and just as sneaky to leave boards or cardboard out overnight for snails and slugs to hide under in the morning, and then surprise the deceived snails and slugs during the day by depriving them of their shelter. They are objectionable to handle, but otherwise easy to collect. Your imagination is probably more useful than any recommendations about how to dispose of them once collected.

Copper tape that can be found in nurseries and hardware stores is a barrier to snails and slugs. It can be self adhesive, or stapled to wooden planter boxes. Plants must be contained within a copper barrier to prevent slugs and snails from getting over the barrier on any plant part that extends within their reach.

Bare copper wire can also be effective. Because trees are actively growing this time of year, copper wire wrapped as a barrier around tree trunks should have some slack, such as a flat ‘S’ shaped curve, to accommodate for trunk expansion.

Salt should not be used to control snails and slugs because it can be harmful to plants. Too much would be needed to surround susceptible plants, and like beer, it would get rinsed away when the protected plants get watered. Keeping drainage saucers filled with water as protective moats for potted plants inhibits drainage, and provides a place for mosquitoes to proliferate.

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Off Color II

Borago officinalis, borage, as I mentioned last October, blooms almost exclusively with blue flowers. At the time though, a few maturing seedlings were blooming with a few pink flowers that eventually were replaced with blue flowers. Now that more are blooming, a few are doing so like this, with white flowers. Also last October, I mentioned that, although white is my favorite color, I expect borage to bloom blue. Not only does blue seem like a more natural color for it, but is also prettier. White borage seems rather mundane. Fortunately, most bloom blue, with enough that bloom white for my own garden, where I am less concerned with how pretty they are. I now wonder if they will be true to type. In other words, I wonder if those that bloom white will produce seed for more that bloom white, or if they will revert to bloom mostly blue. I will take what I get, I suppose. I have not yet found one that I do not like. I would be impressed, or perhaps concerned, by orange bloom, but I seriously doubt that will happen. I should be more concerned with what to do with all these borage seedlings than with their bloom color. I will plant only a few at work, which leaves more than a few for my home garden. Although supposedly not invasive, they are also supposedly proficient with self seeding. Once they get established within my garden, they will likely always be there. I suppose that I should learn to exploit their culinary applications, particularly for those that bloom blue where I do not want them, but perhaps less so for those that bloom white where I do want them. Now I am getting ahead of the situation. After all, they are still just seedlings.

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Lungwort

Most lungwort blooms blue or purplish.

Its unappealing common name is less common than its more agreeable botanical name. Lungwort does not sound as pretty, or at least as official as Pulmonaria officinalis. It is an evergreen perennial, although its foliage likely desiccates through summer. New foliage replaces it during cooler autumn weather. Lungwort prefers cool and moist partial shade.

Mounds of foliar rosettes grow no deeper than a foot. They often stay only half a foot high as they spread as wide as two feet. Their lowest rhizomes produce adventitious roots so that they can sprawl even farther. Such growth is easy to divide. Foliage of most cultivars exhibits pretty lighter green or silver spots or blotches. Some is almost completely silver.

Lungwort blooms mostly for late winter and early spring. Trusses of daintily small flowers hover barely above their basal foliage. The most popular sort blooms with pinkish purple flowers that mature to blue. Others bloom with purple, pink, purplish red or white flowers. Although foliage is healthier within partial shade, sunshine promotes profusion of bloom.

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Perennials Perform Longer Than Annuals

Kaffir lily is a reliable perennial.

Annuals live for only one year. Biennials live for only two. Technically, all other plants are perennials. Horticulturally, this classification is much more specific. Generally, It does not include vegetation that qualifies as something else. Also generally, plants that qualify as perennial are herbaceous rather than woody. Of course, this is not as simple as it seems.

Palm trees that develop substantial trunks, for example, classify as herbaceous trees. So do arboriform yuccas, such as Joshua tree. Palms and yuccas that do not develop trunks can classify merely as perennials though. Different species of one genus could therefore classify very differently. Tree ferns may also qualify as herbaceous trees as they mature.

Many palms and yuccas, as well as agaves, bamboos and banana trees, are perennials. They might not seem as if they should be, since they can grow so large. Spring bulbs are more recognizable as perennials likely because of their small size. Lavenders and some salvia develop more woody stems than banana trees. They are perennials nonetheless.

Perennials are generally self perpetuating. Lavenders and similarly twiggy sorts may not not seem like they are, but they can be. Their lower stems that sprawl over the surface of the soil can grow adventitious roots. These adventitiously rooted stems can grow as new plants to replace the old. Herbaceous perennials are more overt about self perpetuation.

Lily of the Nile, for example, constantly produces new rhizomes to replace the old. It can do so indefinitely. Some may have done so longer than the oldest bristlecone pines have been alive. They do not retain old growth as evidence of their age. This self perpetuation is an advantage in home gardens. It facilitates both sustainability as well as propagation.

Lily of the Nile, Daylily, Kaffir lily and African iris are very simple to propagate by division. Once separated, either after bloom or while dormant, their rhizomes grow as new plants. Many perennials actually perform better after occasional division. It alleviates congestion by providing more space to grow and bloom. Canna and ginger rhizomes grow very fast. Canna may benefit from annual division.

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Six on Saturday: More Gifts from Tangly Cottage Gardening

Tangly Cottage Gardening was a primary destination of my vacation. I posted pictures of it last week. These are six more species that I received as gifts.

1. Acanthus spinosus, armed bear’s breech has the strangest common name of these six. Is the bear armed or just its butt? Regardless, I happen to like common Acanthus mollis, and had coincidentally been wanting to try this less common species as well. Now, I will.

2. Echinops ritro, globe thistle was a minor crop where I worked with cut flowers during the summer of 1986. I did not enjoy harvesting it then, but recently, I had coincidentally been wanting to add a single specimen to my garden. I just could not think of an excuse.

3. Helenium autumnale, common sneezeweed also has an amusing common name. I am unfamiliar with this species, although its botanical name somehow seems to be familiar. I got three distinct cultivars of it now! If we were not already acquainted, we will be now.

4. Brachyglottis greyi, daisy bush has a contrarily mundane common name. Many other species could easily qualify for its name. Somehow though, it makes it more compelling. Now, I want to see what makes it distinct from all other daisies, bushes or daisy bushes.

5. Leycesteria formosa, Himalayan honeysuckle or pheasant berry is yet another species that I had coincidentally been wanting to acquire. I embarrassingly did not recognize its name initially. I was told that I would find its flowers to be more appealing than its fruit.

6. Lupinus, lupine is regifted and unidentified. I do not know if it is annual or perennial. Because it was grown in a can rather than merely shared as seed as annuals should be, I suspect that it is perennial. I will find out. This one can contains several swell seedlings.

This is the link for Six on Saturday, for anyone else who would like to participate: https://thepropagatorblog.wordpress.com/2017/09/18/six-on-saturday-a-participant-guide/

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English Daisy

Common English daisy can infest lawns.

Like pampas grass, periwinkle and the ivies, English daisy, Bellis perennis, has a bad reputation as an aggressive weed. The primitive species with single white flowers with bright yellow centers is very difficult to eradicate once it becomes established in lawns. The first phase of bloom in early spring can be profuse enough to resemble thin patches of snow that appear as the weather gets warmer instead of colder.

Varieties that are sometimes found in nurseries are much better behaved and more colorful. Their red, pink or white flowers are typically double, and stand on stems about three inches high. Their rich green, inch and a half long leaves make six inch wide clumps that are compact enough to mix with other small perennials in borders, urns or large pots. Deadheading (removal of fading flowers) is a bit tedious for so many small flowers, but promotes continued bloom. English daisy is very easy to propagate by division.

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Not All Pruning Happens In Winter

If necessary, Oregon grape can be pruned to the ground now.

Spring has sprung; and winter has wenter . . . or whatever winter does to get out of the way of spring. Plants are more active now than at any other time of year. Deciduous plants that were dormant and bare through winter have already started to bloom and produce new foliage. Evergreen plants are now making new foliage to replace their tired old foliage that lingered through cold, wet and windy winter weather. 

Frost is very unlikely this late. It is safe to sow seeds for all sorts of warm season vegetables and annual flowers, like beans, okra, zucchini, nasturtiums and sunflowers. It is likewise time to plant small plants for certain vegetables and flowers that are too slow to start from seed, like tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, petunias and impatiens.

Winter was the time to prune almost all deciduous plants (which defoliate) and many evergreen plants while they were dormant. However, pruning of plants that are susceptible to frost damage needed to be delayed until about now, even if they had been damaged earlier. Premature pruning would have stimulated new growth, which would have been even more sensitive to subsequent frost.

Any lavender starflower, bougainvillea, marguerite daisy or blue potato bush foliage that was damaged by earlier frost can now be pruned away. New foliage should already be appearing. Also, any mushy frost damaged leaves of giant-bird-of-Paradise and banana can be removed, and should be replaced by new foliage as the weather gets warmer.

The end of winter and beginning of spring is also the best time for any necessary severe restorative pruning of plants that can be damaged by frost, as well as many heartier evergreen plants. It is late enough to avoid frost, while early enough to take advantage of the first new growth phase of the season.

For example, lavender starflower that is both overgrown and damaged by frost can be pruned back to the main stems now, instead of merely shorn to remove damaged foliage. If pruned earlier, it would have not only been more sensitive to frost, but would have remained unsightly as long as weather remained too cool for it to regenerate new foliage.

It likewise can not be pruned much later without wasting most of the new spring growth that is presently developing, which would be very stressful and delay bloom. Pruning severely now will be unsightly for the least amount of time before new growth regenerates and blooms. It would also be less stressful, since it coincides with natural dormancy and regenerative cycles.

Privets, junipers, oleanders, photinias, bottlebrush and pittosporums that need restoration should also get it now, not because they are sensitive to frost, but so that they recover as efficiently as possible as weather gets warmer. Besides, bottlebrush, pittosporum and some other plants are susceptible to disease if pruned during winter, because pruning wounds are easily infected during rainy weather.

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Unexpected Lemon

‘Meyer’ lemon was never my favorite lemon. However, when I grew citrus trees in the early 1990s, it was the most popular of forty or so cultivars. There really is nothing else like it. Relative to other lemons, its fruit is distinctively less acidic, more richly flavored, and sometimes ridiculously abundant. All other lemons are more sour but less flavorful. Besides ‘Meyer’ we grew ‘Lisbon’, ‘Eureka’, ‘Variegated Pink’ and ‘Ponderosa’. Of these four others, only ‘Ponderosa’ is not a mutant of ‘Lisbon’, although its comparably mild flavor and robust acidity suggest that it is. All four grow as small but upright trees. Only ‘Meyer’ naturally grows broader than tall, sort of like shrubbery.

‘Eureka’ lemon inhabits one of the landscapes at work, where it produces enough average lemons for those of us who know about them. I grew cuttings from it for my own garden, but am concerned that, since they are not grafted onto dwarfing understock, they could eventually grow quite large. I also grew an ungrafted cutting of ‘Ponderosa’ lemon for the same landscape at work that the ‘Eureka’ lemon already inhabits, because it happens to be at the Ponderosa Lodge. ‘Ponderosa’ lemon grows with an upright form, but because it naturally stays smaller than ‘Eureka’ lemon and its relatives, I am not too concerned about it growing too large.

‘Meyer’ lemon came to my garden like a stray cat. Well, it is a bit more complicated than that, but it involved about as much planning. The history of how it came to its previous home is too extensive to describe here. To be brief, I installed it into a garden a few years ago because someone wanted it there after previous unsuccessful attempts to grow the same. Then, it needed to be removed prior to the sale of the home. I did not know what to do with it, so brought it here. I canned it and set it aside until space becomes available for it. I really did not expect it to do much until then. I sort of hoped that someone else would want it for their garden, but after we had been through so much together, I also sort of hoped that it would stay here. Anyway, while I was busy ignoring it in its partly shady and less than ideal situation, I noticed that it had produced this single lemon for me over winter. Well, I suppose that it will be a permanent feature of my garden now.

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Bridal Wreath Spiraea

Bridal wreath spiraea resembles baby’s breath.

Flowering quince and forsythia set a precedent. Bridal wreath spiraea, Spirea prunifolia, somehow became old fashioned too. All three are only beginning to regain popularity. All are deciduous, so defoliate for autumn and remain bare through winter. They then bloom spectacularly on bare stems for late winter or early spring. Foliage develops after bloom.

Bridal wreath spiraea, like forsythia, develops many upright and arching basal stems. Its stems can grow taller than eight feet, although they are typically a bit shorter. Removal of old stems after bloom promotes growth of new stems, which bloom better. Indiscriminate pruning ruins their naturally upwardly flaring form. A slight bit of partial shade is tolerable.

Almost all bridal wreath spiraea are of the cultivar ‘Plena’. Their double flowers are fluffy but tiny, between just a quarter and a half inch wide. The simple species, and the variety ‘simpliciflora‘ with single flowers, are rare. Regardless of floral form, floral color is limited to white. Foliage might develop yellow color for autumn where autumn weather is cooler.