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Watering Increases As Rain Decreases

Automated irrigation should help conserve water.

Rain is less abundant and less frequent now that winter has become spring. Humidity is decreasing. Temperatures are increasing. Moisture within both the soil and the air is less abundant than it had been. Irrigation that discontinued as the rainy season began should resume soon. Only supplemental watering compensates for the increasing lack of water.

Warmer and drier weather does more than simply deprive vegetation of natural moisture. It also accelerates new growth of formerly dormant or partially dormant vegetation. Such growth requires more moisture as it becomes less available. Increasing day lengths with intensifying sunlight enhance this need for watering. Although natural, it all seems ironic.

This recent need for watering is progressive. Rain still sometimes interrupts it, but will be less frequent as spring progresses. Rain will be very unlikely after later spring. Humidity will continue to decrease as temperatures continue to increase. Watering frequency and volume must increase accordingly. They might not begin to decrease until after summer.

Soil composition and texture also influence the increasing need for watering. Organically rich soils retain moisture more efficiently than sandy soils, for example. Gravely soils that drain well may necessitate frequent watering, even if less copious. Potted plants require frequent watering because they can not disperse roots. Hanging pots require even more.

Furthermore, different types of vegetation need different or specialized types of watering. Fibrous but shallow roots usually need frequent watering, even if they do not need much. Species with deep roots usually need watering less frequently. Some of them need more significant volumes of water than others. Some vegetation prefers only minimal watering.

With all these many variables, there are no simple formulas to determine watering rates. Manual irrigation is easiest to monitor, but is also tedious. Automated irrigation, although less tedious, requires more diligent monitoring. For any particular type of vegetation, soil should not remain too dry for too long. Also, vegetation should not exhibit any symptoms from desiccation.

Posted on by tonytomeo · 15 Comments

Six on Saturday: Tangly Cottage Garden

Skyler and Allan, the people who live with Skooter of Tangly Cottage Gardening, invited Rhody and me to tour their home gardens while vacationing in the Pacific Northwest. It has become an annual event. I always leave with a trunk load of interesting and unusual species. I will post pictures of some of such acquisitions from this tour next week. These six pictures are from the home gardens of Tangly Cottage Gardening, although I did take rooted bits and a potted specimen of two of them. After taking these pictures, Rhody and I stayed for lunch and a visit, but did not leave too late to avoid driving in the dark. More pictures of our tour can be seen at Tangly Cottage Gardening.

1. Primula X pruhonicensis ‘Old Port’ primrose exhibits luxuriantly rich burgundy floral color. This name is merely a guess, since I actually have no idea what cultivar this one is.

2. Hyacinthoides hispanica, Spanish bluebells is unfortunately a bit too aggressive here, which is why I have not tried it at home. It could be docile in a chaparral climate though.

3. Rubus spectabilis, salmonberry is native and grows wild in Ilwaco. I would have asked for cuttings if I had not already acquired it. I will compare its fruit to other cane berries.

4. Vinca minor ‘Alba Variegata’ periwinkle is not as invasive at home as it is elsewhere. I procured a few bits because I like its white flowers, and may learn to like its variegation.

5. Pulmonaria officinalis ‘Bowles’ Blue’ lungwort, along with cultivars that bloom white, pink and purple, were excellent acquisitions also! Its cultivar name is merely conjecture.

6. Skooter approved of my acquisitions from his Tangly Cottage Garden, which includes quite a bit more than periwinkle and lungwort. I will get pictures of them for next week.

This is the link for Six on Saturday, for anyone else who would like to participate: https://thepropagatorblog.wordpress.com/2017/09/18/six-on-saturday-a-participant-guide/

Posted on by tonytomeo

Kaffir Lily

Kaffir lily may look like a bright orange lily of the Nile.

Not much more than a decade ago, Kaffir lily, Clivia miniata, was known almost exclusively for big rounded trusses of boldly bright orange flowers at the end of winter or beginning of spring. Relatively recent breeding has extended the color range to include some softer shades of orange as well as many shades of yellow and reddish orange. Solomone Hybrids are various shades of yellow. ‘Flame’ is brilliant reddish orange. Some varieties bloom earlier in winter. Others bloom later in spring.

Individual tubular flowers are actually rather small, but are clustered like hydrangea flowers on strong stalks that stand as tall as a foot and a half. Bright red berries sometimes appear after flowers fade. The rather rubbery foliage is deep green. The individual strap shaped leaves are rather wide and can be nearly a foot and a half long. Belgian and French hybrids have heftier flower stalks and wider leaves. Established plants do not like to be disturbed, but may get too crowded to bloom well if not dug and divided every few years or so.

Posted on by tonytomeo

Shade Tolerant Species

Kaffir lily is famously resilient to shade.

Most gardens have some sort of shade. Those that are not shaded by substantial trees likely have shadows from houses or fences. Big eaves of ranch architecture make big shadows. So do tall Victorian houses. Yet, the disproportionately small gardens of bulky modern homes with high fences are shadiest.

There are not many trees that do well in shade. Most of those that do are rather small ‘understory’ trees that naturally prefer to be in the partial shade of taller trees. The many different Japanese maples are perhaps the most familiar. Vine maple is a similar maple from North America. Many dogwoods are likewise understory trees.

Eastern redbud, parrotia, strawberry tree, sweet bay and various podocarpus are not necessarily understory trees, but are quite tolerant of partial shade. However, stems that reach beyond the shade are likely to thrive at the expense of shaded parts if not pruned for confinement. For example, a fern pine (podocarpus) can be happy on the north side of a house, but can develop such a thick canopy where it gets good sun exposure on top, that lower growth gets shaded out. All palms tolerate significant shade while young, but most eventually grow beyond it.

There is more shade tolerant shrubbery to choose from, since shrubbery is naturally lower and more likely to be shaded by trees. Rhododendron, azalea, camellia, hydrangea, pieris, fuchsia, aucuba and Japanese aralia are about as familiar as Japanese maple is. Heavenly bamboo (Nandina spp.), Oregon grape, mountain laurel, flowering maple and various hollies are also worth investigating. 

Because low growing perennials are naturally lower than both trees and shrubbery, many are naturally more tolerant to shade. Bear’s breech, cast iron plant, perwinkle, tradescantia, arum and forget-me-not can be so happy in shade that they can actually be invasive. Kaffir lily, bergenia, hosta, lily turf, ginger lily, coral bells and various ferns are much better behaved.

Foxglove, cyclamen and balsam (Impatiens spp.) are good annuals for shady spots. Cyclamen is actually a perennial that deteriorates during warm summer weather, but can regenerate as weather gets cool in autumn, to bloom through winter and early spring. Balsam does just the opposite, thriving through warm weather, but deteriorating with frost. Caladium and coleus can provide remarkably colorful foliage until frost. (Foxglove is actually biennial. Caladium grows from bulbs, but is rarely perennial.)

Despite their reputation as being aggressively invasive, both Algerian and English ivies can be resilient ground covers in significant shade. Baby’s tears likewise spreads as far as it gets water. Star jasmine is more complaisant, but only tolerant of moderate shade, and will not bloom as well as it does with better exposure.

Posted on by tonytomeo · 2 Comments

Horridculture – Aquatic Vegetation

Watercress, Nasturtium officinale

Watercress, Nasturtium officinale, seems to be proliferating a bit more in the drainage pond than it did last year. It is difficult to compare, since I was not concerned about it enough to monitor it last year. I am likely noticing it more now because the duckweed, Lemna minor, deteriorated slower than it did last year, which maintained my interest in such infesting aquatic vegetation. I have been monitoring the cattail, Typha latifolia, also. Although none of these species are exotic, I do not want any of them to proliferate so much that they obscure the pond that they inhabit. That has been a problem with duckweed as long as the pond has contained water. I am aware that cattail also has potential to proliferate aggressively, although I believe that such proliferation would be easier to mitigate. I really do not know how watercress behaves, though. I can not remember ever seeing a pond anywhere completely overwhelmed by it. I doubt that, even if it does proliferate aggressively, that it would be as difficult to contend with as duckweed is. Perhaps it would compete with duckweed! Goodness; I never intended to get so involved with aquatic vegetation. It is not exactly the sort of vegetation that inhabits ‘land’scapes. Yet, the drainage pond is a feature of the landscapes here. We maintain the willows, cottonwoods, sycamores, oaks and Landon’s tree around it, so obviously, must maintain the aquatic vegetation within it as well. In that regard, I would prefer to grow a few more ornamental but less aggressive aquatic species, such as water lilies. Unfortunately, the few water lilies that we tried were tropical species that seemed to succumb to cool winter weather and overwhelming duckweed. I should try some native water lilies, but they might be a bit too prolific.

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Tulip

A single tulip flower seems lonely.

As diverse as they are, popular varieties are a minority of countless hybrids of the genus. Most common and popular hybrid tulips qualify as the neo-species of Tulipa gesneriana. In other words, they are not an actual species. Most but not all are descendants of Tulipa suaveolens. More sustainable varieties of simple species are becoming more available.

The most popular of tulip are early spring bulbs that went into their gardens last autumn. Floral color ranges through pink, red, orange, yellow and white, mostly with dark centers. Their basal foliage is rather light green or perhaps almost grayish, with a rubbery texture. Most tulips stand singly on straight stems about a foot tall, but some can grow a bit taller.

Tulip bulbs enjoy organically rich soil with regular irrigation throughout their bloom cycle. They should get all the moisture they want from rain through their winter dormancy cycle. Tulip prefer a bit of chill in winter, so may not be as reliably perennial here as elsewhere. They are most spectacular in herds or large beds, but mix nicely with other spring bulbs. Simple tulips are among the most popular of cut flowers.

Posted on by tonytomeo

Grooming Deteriorating Bloom Conserves Resources

Daffodil are tidier with timely grooming.

Spring bulbs are now blooming, and some are already done. Summer bulbs will bloom a bit later, and some will continue until autumn. Annuals, perennials, shrubbery, vines and all sorts of other vegetation also bloom. Most simply shed their deteriorating flowers after bloom. Some may benefit from grooming to remove such flowers before they go to seed.

Grooming to remove lingering deteriorated flowers, or deadheading, is obviously neater. Flowers that continue to bloom are more prominent without their decaying predecessors. Camellias may not need such grooming, since their flowers fall away as they deteriorate. However, removal of fading flowers, before or after they fall, eliminates their mess below.

Perhaps more importantly, grooming to remove fading flowers conserves vital resources. Although most bulbs are sterile hybrids, some try to generate fruiting structures for seed. This consumes substantial resources. Removal of fruiting structures before they develop diverts resources to other growth. Canna diverts such resources into subsequent bloom.

For some species, grooming to remove fruiting structures stimulates subsequent blooms. After all, seed production is their priority, and the objective of bloom. If they perceive any deprivation of seed, they are compelled to produce more. Several dahlias bloom initially with single flowers. After grooming, the stems below branch for a few secondary flowers.

For a few potentially invasive species, grooming eliminates unwanted seed. Montbretia, which is famously invasive, is less so if deprived of its seed. African iris might disperse a few unwanted seed and get shabby without grooming. Summer snowflake and common grape hyacinth often disperse their seed. Both are too small and numerous for grooming.

Fortunately, summer snowflake and common grape hyacinth are true to type. Freesia are not. Without grooming, they can produce feral progeny that are similar to their ancestors. Such feral progeny are more prolific with seed for more of the same. Eventually, they can displace the desirable original varieties. Although more fragrant, they are not as colorful.

Posted on by tonytomeo · 8 Comments

Six on Saturday: Pruning Apple Trees

This is a rather cursory Six for this Saturday, since Rhody and I are on vacation, pruning apple trees in Washington. I should do better next Saturday.

1. Malus domestica, apple trees, even after thorough pruning last winter, are a hot mess now. I prune a small herd of only eleven, but some of them are quite large. Several other assorted fruit trees remain in need of renovation nearby. A tenant maintains a few more.

2. Dormant pruning maintains and contains the otherwise rampant growth of the apple trees, and limits their otherwise messily excessive fruit production, but does not actually improve their visual appeal much. The most meticulously pruned trees will look twiggy.

3. Malus sylvestris, crabapple demonstrates why I am in a rush to prune the apple trees before their bloom and foliation. They are about to bloom, and apple trees bloom shortly afterward. I try to get here earlier each year, but always get here at about this same time.

4. Pyrus communis, pear is already beginning to bloom a slight bit more than crabapple. Fortunately, the pear trees are still somewhat small, and do not yet need major dormant pruning or renovation. I might prune back a few minor spires from one of the pear trees.

5. Prunus cerasifera, Myrobalan plum is in full bloom, but needs no pruning anyway. It is merely the understock of an unidentified stone fruit tree that was cut down years ago. It serves no purpose, but is too pretty in bloom to merely cut down without justification.

6. Arlo was waiting for us on the porch when we arrived. He lives at another house in the neighborhood, but visits neighbors for food and treats. He was not pleased when Rhody noticed that he was watching us. He did not exactly put much effort into hiding, though.

This is the link for Six on Saturday, for anyone else who would like to participate: https://thepropagatorblog.wordpress.com/2017/09/18/six-on-saturday-a-participant-guide/