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‘Yuletide’

Camellia sasanqua ‘Yuletide’

‘Yuletide’ Camellia sasanqua should bloom for Christmas, as the name implies. It typically does. However, it sometimes blooms early or late. It might be slightly late this year, but has been blooming for quite a while, and was beginning to bloom by Christmas.

It certainly is a delightful red. It seems to me that it can be slightly more reddish, with less of a pink influence, in some situations. Perhaps the bright yellow of the staminate centers cause it to appear as such within certain weather conditions or sunlight exposures. This particular flower may seem to be slightly pinkish as a result of distress. The hedge that it bloomed on had been infested with red spider mite earlier.

This particular cultivar of Camellia sasanqua develops distinctly upright and perhaps ovoid form, and can get quite tall. Most other cultivars develop more irregular or sprawling form, with long and limber stems, and relatively short stature.

I am impressed that this bloom is so resilient to wintry weather. Although much of the foliage is under a wide eave, most of the bloom is not under the eave, so has been exposed to both rain and frost. Apparently, Camellia sasanqua bloom is resilient to frost that is colder than it gets here. Camellia flower blight is common regionally, but mysteriously does not damage many flowers within the landscapes here. White and light pink Camellia japonica flowers are more vulnerable, but even they bloom quite nicely here, with only a few flowers succumbing before they finish bloom, and generally as their cumulative bloom cycle is finishing anyway.

Deer eat any cultivar of any species of Camellia, but avoid camellias here more mysteriously than camellia flower blight. I do not remember ever encountering damage that was caused by deer; and there are many camellias here.

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Six on Saturday: Old School

Bauhinia punctata, Tupidanthus calyptratus, Olmediella betschleriana and Oreopanax capitatus are a few species that Brent and I studied in school during the late 1980s, then encountered only very rarely afterward. Actually, neither of us have encountered a single specimen of Oreopanax capitatus since 1990. Brent managed to procure a Tupidanthus calyptratus for his driveway. I may eventually procure a Bauhinia punctata. Nowadays, I work with Cocculus laurifolius and Pittosporum crassifolium, which, previously, I had not seen since school. Agapanthus orientalis and Juniperus chinensis ‘Kaizuka’ could be just as old fashioned, but never really got scarce. Perhaps I should post more pictures of species here that are actually rare instead.

1. Agapanthus orientalis, lily of the Nile has been very popular and even common longer than anyone can remember, and still is. This picture of these divided and plugged shoots is here because I neglected to post it as I discussed them in Six on Saturday a month ago

2. Juniperus chinensis ‘Kaizuka’, Hollywood juniper was passe prior to when Brent and I were in school, but older specimens remain. They are like sculptural small cypress trees.

3. Cocculus laurifolius, laurel leaved snailseed is a species that we studied in school, but have seen in only a few situations since then. I happen to be acquainted with a few now.

4. Pittosporum crassifolium, karo is very similar in that regard. It might have been more popular a long time ago, but lost popularity as more interesting species were introduced.

5. Pittosporum crassifolium, karo produces annoyingly abundant and annoyingly sticky seeds. ‘Pittosporum’ translates to ‘pitchy seed’. If they germinate, they do not do it here.

6. Rhody’s Roady got its new license plate with the colors of 1969. ‘O’ is for ‘Occidentale’, which is Rhody’s last name. It is irrelevant to an Isuzu or a downtown shopping district.

This is the link for Six on Saturday, for anyone else who would like to participate: https://thepropagatorblog.wordpress.com/2017/09/18/six-on-saturday-a-participant-guide/

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Holly-Leaf Osmanthus

Holly-leaf osmanthus resembles both English holly and Euonymus.

English holly happens to be one of my all time favorite plants, even though it rarely produces the abundant berries that are expected of hollies. Its deep rich green foliage is so glossy and distinctively textured. Because English holly does not mind partial shade, the variegated varieties can add a bit of color where it is too dark for most other plants to bloom. I really do not mind that it is so prickly.

For those who do mind, the holly-leaf osmanthus, Osmanthus heterophyllus (or ilicifolius) is a worthy substitute for English holly that is just as happy with partial shade. The foliage is very similar in appearance, but a bit less glossy, and much less irritating. Holly-leaf osmanthus is sometimes mistaken for English holly, but can be distinguished by its opposite leaves. English holly has alternate leaf arrangement.

Mature holly-leaf osmanthus can get as large as English holly, but rarely does. It is more often less than 10 feet tall and wide, and is somewhat more adaptable to shearing into hedges. ‘Variegatus’, the most popular variety with pale white leaf margins, grows a bit slower and stays more compact, and actually looks better in partial shade than out where it is too exposed. Holly-leaf osmanthus flowers that bloom about now are not much to look at, but produce a delicate fragrance if the weather gets warm.

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Bare Root Stock

Bare root stock is none too pretty in the beginning.

Now that Christmas trees have been moved out of the nurseries, it is time for bare root plants to move in! As the term implies, bare root plants have ‘bare roots’, lacking typical media (such as potting soil) which is typically contained in cans or pots. All sorts of deciduous fruit trees, roses, grapes and berries can be purchased bare root, either bagged with moist wood shavings, or out of the ‘sand boxes’ that they are heeled into in the nurseries. Even more are available from mail order catalogues. (Just check climate zone ratings for mail order stock.)

I purchased all of my deciduous fruit trees bare root mainly to save money. Bare root stock typically costs about half of what canned stock (grown in a nursery can or pot) does. Also, because bare root stock does not take up as much space as canned stock does, more varieties can be brought in and made available during bare root season.

Bare root stock gets established into the garden more efficiently than canned stock does. It gets dug, transported and planted while dormant; and can disperse roots into relatively uniform soil immediately after dormancy. However, stock that gets canned wakes up in spring in uncomfortably warm and confining nursery cans. After adapting to nursery conditions, it must then adapt to new garden environments, and disperse roots into soil that is very different from what it already rooted into.

Bare root stock should be planted as soon as possible after it leaves the nursery so that roots do not get too dry. If they can not get planted immediately, plants that were pulled from sand boxes in nurseries should get their roots heeled into (covered with) damp soil. Bagged stock in original packaging is safe for a few days in the shade.

Roots should be soaked a few hours before planting. I prefer to instead keep roots well watered for a day after planting. Broken or damaged roots should be pruned away before planting. Damaged and superfluous stems should be pruned away after planting.

Planting holes for bare root stock can be wide enough to loosen surrounding soil, but should be no deeper than necessary. Plants are likely to settle too deeply if the soil below is too loose. All roots should be buried while graft unions (the odd ‘kinks’ low on the trunks of grafted trees) remain exposed. Soil can be mounded firmly into a ‘volcano’ in the middle of each hole to spread roots over. Backfill soil can be amended lightly; not so much that it is too different from surrounding soil.

A basin should be formed around each new bare root plant so that roots can be soaked and settled in by filling the basins with water twice. Bare root plants are initially dormant and lack foliage, so do not need water again until they develop foliage, and the soil gets dry in spring. Besides, rain and cool weather will keep the soil wet through winter.

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Leyland Cypress

Leyland cypress ‘was’ an intergeneric hybrid.

Taxonomy is a mess for Leyland cypress, X Cupressocyparis leylandii. The X preceding its genus name indicates that it is an intergeneric hybrid. Monterey cypress, Cupressus macrocarpa is the paternal parent of the original hybrid. Nootka cypress, Chamaecyparis nootkatensis, is the maternal parent. However, its name is now Cupressus nootkatensis.

Therefore, Leyland cypress is now Cupressus X leylandii, and an interspecific hybrid. It inherited attributes from both parents, as well as innate vulnerabilities. It can grow very vigorously to more than thirty feet tall in fifteen years. However, it may not live for another fifteen years afterward. It is very susceptible to cypress canker and a few other diseases.

This is why Leyland cypress often accompanies more permanent but slower vegetation. By the time it finishes its life cycle, the other vegetation is ready to replace it. Most large specimens are less than forty feet tall, with densely conical form. The evergreen foliage is grayish deep green. Less common cultivars are more grayish, yellowish or variegated.

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Living Christmas Trees Eventually Mature

Living Christmas trees are real trees.

Christmas trees are extreme cut foliage. They stand alone, rather than as accessories to cut flowers. Most are a few feet tall, and some are much grander. Ultimately though, they are as disposable as cut flowers. Because they are so expensive, their disposal seems to be wasteful. Realistically though, they are more practical than living Christmas trees.

Now that living Christmas trees remain after Christmas, they require attention. They are otherwise as disposable as cut trees are. Large specimens are too expensive to discard. They might also be difficult to maintain. Because almost all were field grown, they are in very dense and heavy soil. Such soil can retain either insufficient or excessive moisture.

Many initially healthy living Christmas trees can deteriorate through summer. Some get too shabby to function as a Christmas tree before their second Christmas. They adapt to local climates slowly after leaving the climates in which they grew. Some do not survive. They are happier in the ground than in a tub, but as such, can not come in for Christmas.

Living Christmas trees are less expensive than cut trees only after a few years of service. Several of the more compact types can actually survive containment for several years. A few can survive in tubs indefinitely with occasional pruning. Otherwise, most eventually need to graduate from containment to a garden. This is not as simple as it seems to be.

Visual appeal and price limit selection of living Christmas trees. Physical characteristics of such trees should be more of a consideration. Some are more tolerant of confinement within large pots than others are. Some will eventually be quite adaptable to landscapes. The unfortunate reality is that many become very large trees that need substantial space.

Small pre-decorated trees in mylar wrap are the most common of living Christmas trees. Unfortunately, most are either Italian stone pine or Canary Island pine. Both grow too big for compact gardens. Planting living Christmas trees in the wild is not a practical option. Without irrigation, formerly confined trees can not survive long enough to disperse roots. If they could, they can damage local ecology.

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‘Rosalie Figge’?

Bearded iris should bloom for early spring, not winter.

Each of the several bearded iris that I grow have history. Their origins are more significant than their performance. None were merely purchased. I obtained my first, which is actually Dalmatian iris rather than bearded iris, from the garden of my maternal maternal great grandmother when I was about five years old, before I was in kindergarten.

Some of the seventeen or so that inhabit my garden may be added to a designated iris garden at work as they multiply. Some of the eight or so that inhabit the designated iris garden at work may be added to my garden as they multiply. I will likely procure at least two additional cultivars when I return to the Pacific Northwest later in winter, as well as Louisiana iris from another source.

The most abundant of the bearded iris within the designated iris garden at work were recycled from where they had become too abundant in a home garden in Santa Cruz. They are unidentified. I suspected that they might be a simpler species, rather than a hybrid bearded iris, because they resemble my simple Dalmatian iris. Their floral stems are similarly slender. The leaves are similarly somewhat narrow. The fragrance is similar. The main differences are that the floral stems are a bit shorter, the flowers are rich purple rather than lavender blue, and instead of blooming promptly and thoroughly only for early spring, they bloom sporadically throughout spring, and again about now.

After posting a picture of them last winter, I was informed that they could be ‘Rosalie Figge’. They conform to the description of the cultivar, although they bloom for winter rather than autumn. They were blooming a month ago, and are still blooming now. Although I do not care what they are, it would be nice to know.

It was blooming a month ago.
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Analysis

There is so much more to this picture than the kitty.

As Brent mentioned when he sent me this picture, which was included with my ‘Six on Saturday’ post earlier this morning, “There’s a lot going on in the picture.”

Slightly above the exact center of the picture, to the left of the tip of the kitty’s right ear, a Mexican fan palm peeks through a small void in the vegetation. It is at the curb of a home on the west side of the next street to the east. It is what Brent would have taken a picture of if he had zoomed in as intended. It leans to the right and south, as tall Mexican fan palms do there in response the the Santa Ana Winds.

The foliage of the queen palm above and to the left demonstrates that the Santa Ana Winds were blowing when the picture was taken.

The trunk that extends upward through another smaller void in the vegetation below the queen palm foliage is of another Mexican fan palm at the curb in front of Brent’s Jungalow. It is in alignment with the other Mexican fan palm to the east. Its canopy is obscured by that of the queen palm.

The foliage above and to the right of the primary Mexican fan palm, but below and to the right of the queen palm, is pink trumpet tree, which blooms spectacularly bright pink for spring.

The defoliated thicket of stems below and to the left of the primary Mexican fan palm is a large plumeria, which Brent, while very young, acquired from an elderly neighbor. He got it at about the same age that I was when I acquired my Dalmatian iris and rhubarb. More than a dozen other plumeria grow and bloom in a row that extends parallel to the walkway, in front of and behind the large specimen that is visible.

The somewhat yellowish foliage below and to the left of the plumeria is an impressively large Mexican lime that is somehow productive within all that shade.

The strange foliage that hangs outwardly from a dark central mass above and to the left of the Mexican lime, and left of the queen palm is a large colony of staghorn fern that is much closer to the window. Some sort of weird begonia foliage is below and to the left of it. California sycamore foliage is above it.

The top of a tall Indian laurel hedge is visible to the upper right of the picture. Some sort of odd dracaena and odd fern are visible to the lower left corner. Much but not all of the remaining vegetation is a mixture of understory palms, including various bamboo palms, Raphis palms and kentia palms. The spiral stairs lead to an upper deck, which has a splendid view of the rest of the garden that extends to the left, beyond the view of this picture. Finally, on the spiral stairs, is this kitty.

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Six on Saturday: Bad Botany II

Botany is bad this week for a different reason than it was last week. It is lacking. I mean, there is none. Only common names are mentioned. The first picture, which is not mine, includes too many different species to cite. Even if I wanted to, I could not identify all of them from this picture, and I can not remember what all of them are. The other pictures conversely show only a few common species that need no introduction.

1. Brent sent this picture of a view from his primary landscape design studio west of Los Angeles. The Jungalow is obscured by overgrown vegetation on the left. More species of flora inhabit this compact garden than all the combined acreage that I work and live on.

2. Scenery from my work is very different. Redwoods are the primary species. The bland foliage to the left is tanoak. Only a few species of trees grow wild here. The scenery from my writing studio is embarrassingly less interesting, but that is a topic for another time.

3. Banana trees live at work because I like a few species that, to me, seem to be the sort of vegetation that is more common in the Los Angeles region. They got frosted at home.

4. Roses, which are in the background of the banana tree, are more popular here than in the Los Angeles region, and are actually dormant for winter. This one does not generate new canes from its base though, which is why it is now so gnarly after dormant pruning.

5. European white birch are also dormant during the slightly cooler wintry weather here. I can easily relocate feral specimens like bare root stock. Cooler weather has advantages.

6. Bay and box elder obscure this local sunset that looks like it should be in Los Angeles.

This is the link for Six on Saturday, for anyone else who would like to participate: https://thepropagatorblog.wordpress.com/2017/09/18/six-on-saturday-a-participant-guide/