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Watering Resumes With Drier Weather

Irrigation becomes necessary without winter rain.

Even before the last day of winter on March 20, the weather went summery fast. Not only has there been no rain in quite a while, but it has become rather warm also. This climate here can be tricky like that sometimes. While moisture becomes less available from rain, it also becomes more necessary. Watering, or irrigation, needs to resume to compensate.

Watering had not been much of a concern during rainy weather through winter. Only pots and planters that are sheltered by eaves still needed it. Between rainy weather, cool and humid weather inhibited evaporation. Therefore, watering was rarely if ever necessary to compensate for a lack of rain. Even sheltered planters needed less than during summer.

Lack of rain and warmer weather are not the only reasons for the need for watering. Day length is slowly but steadily increasing. Sunlight intensity increases as the sun becomes higher in the sky. Lengthening days of intensifying sunlight accelerate the desiccation of soil. It also accelerates evapotranspiration, which is the evaporation from foliar surfaces.

Furthermore, warming weather accelerates growth of vegetation. This increases its need for moisture that rain no longer provides. Formerly dormant deciduous species will soon develop foliage. They did not lose moisture to evapotranspiration while dormant, but will when foliated. Of course, different types of vegetation demand different types of watering.

Soil texture and composition is also relevant to this increasing need for watering. Sandy soil drains well, but consequently needs more watering than denser soil. Organically rich soil retains moisture more effectively. Potted plants need frequent watering because their roots can not disperse very far. Hanging potted plants want even more frequent watering.

With so many variables, there are no simple formulas for determining watering rates. The process ultimately relies on diligent observation of the soil and vegetation involved. Soil, for many plants, should not remain too dry for too long. However, it should not remain too saturated either. Whether irrigation is automated or manual, it must adapt to the weather.

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Flowering Trees For Spring Bloom

Flowering cherry trees are conveniently compact.

Fruit trees such as apricot, cherry, peach and plum, bloom about now. Some are already finished, while a few are just beginning. Apple and pear trees will bloom somewhat later. More colorfully, flowering or fruitless counterparts of such trees are on similar schedules. Flowering apricot has already finished bloom. Flowering crabapple will likely bloom last.

The difference between fruit trees and their flowering counterparts is not their bloom. It is their fruit or lack thereof. “Flowering” has become a euphemism for “fruitless”. Trees with such designation produce either no fruit or fruit of relatively inferior quality. Wildlife might enjoy some of any inferior fruit. Although, even inferior crabapples might make good jelly.

Purple leaf plums are probably the most popular of this type of flowering or fruitless tree. Flowering cherry is less common. Flowering peach is somewhat rare. Fruitless pear is a popular street tree, but may not bloom as profusely as the others. Also, it does not bloom quite as early. Flowering quince grows as shrubbery rather than trees with upright trunks.

While very closely related, fruiting trees and their fruitless counterparts are very different. Fruiting trees should obviously produce fruit. That is their primary purpose. Their fruitless counterparts are merely ornamental. The truly fruitless types grow and bloom where fruit would be a messy nuisance. For example, some perform well as small scale street trees.

Because they are fruitless, such trees do not require specialized dormant pruning. There is no need to prune to concentrate resources into developing fruit. Nor is there any need to prune to accommodate the weight of fruit. Fruitless trees can assume their natural form and scale instead. Although none are large trees, they can grow taller than fruiting trees.

Also because they are fruitless, their bloom is their priority. They bloom more abundantly than fruiting trees, and some bloom with double flowers. Floral color is more diverse too, ranging from bright white to rich rosy pink. Some flowering crabapple trees bloom nearly red. Since dormant pruning is unnecessary, blooming stems are splendid as cut flowers.

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Native Species Are Naturally Natural

California poppy is a common wildflower.

Vegetation has always been here. Wildlands outside of urban development demonstrate that noplace is or was without it. Native species lived here before any home gardens did. Whether intentionally or unintentionally, some of it still does. Some sneaks in like weeds. Some arrives by invitation. A few old trees never left as the area around them developed.

Native species perform well locally because they are adapted to local climates and soils. It is all very natural to them. In fact, many dislike major modifications to their climates and soils. Although most tolerate or even appreciate a bit of supplemental irrigation, some do not. Many rot if irrigation is too generous. Also, many do not want much soil amendment.

Some native species might be a bit too natural, though. Because they are from chaparral climates, they can get somewhat scraggly by summer. It is not because of a lack of water or other environmental deficiency. It is their natural behavior, and how they survive in the wild. Many wildflowers that bloom so well for spring are completely dormant by summer.

The advantage to this is that almost all native species do not demand much water. Many want none at all. Once established, they get all they need from natural rainfall. Therefore, landscapes of mostly or exclusively native species conserve water. Since native species are adapted to endemic soil, they require no fertilizer either. They are quite conservative.

California poppy, which is the State Flower of California, is a very familiar native annual. Unlike other native species, it appreciates supplemental irrigation after the rainy season. It typically blooms only for spring, but may bloom into summer with occasional irrigation. Sky lupine is another native annual that blooms for spring, with contrasting blue flowers.

Various salvias, bush lupines, penstemons, irises and grasses are native perennials. So are sticky monkey flower, Oregon grape, tree anemone and tree poppy. Toyon, silk tassel and various California lilacs are native shrubbery. So are flannel bush, coyote brush and coffeeberry. California sycamore, coast live oak and redwoods are common native trees.

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Weeds Grow Fast Before Spring

English daisy is a pretty weed.

Vegetables and annuals should be growing well with such pleasantly warming weather. Soon enough and into spring, most should be growing like weeds. Unfortunately though, they are not alone. Undesirable vegetation competes with them for limited resources and space. It is a sadly unavoidable problem, even among the most refined of home gardens.

According to their simplest definition, weeds are undesirable vegetation. Obviously, most of the familiar sorts are annuals or perhaps perennials. However, trees, vines and shrubs can be weeds as well. Silver wattle is an invasive tree which can be difficult to eradicate. English ivy is an invasive vine among many forests. Glossy privet is invasive shrubbery.

With few exceptions, weeds are exotic. In other words, they are not native locally. Native species are generally complaisant within their natural ecosystems. They become weeds only if they become undesirable. For example, native poison oak may grow within home gardens. Native bay trees and some oaks frequently appear where they are undesirable.

Most exotic weeds were not always so undesirable. Some were formerly popular for their ornamental qualities, and then naturalized. These include pampas grass, yellow flag iris, Hottentot fig and periwinkle. Wild mustard likely naturalized from home gardens where it grew as a vegetable. Many naturalized grassy weeds were originally fodder for livestock.

The smaller but prolific weeds are the most problematic for home gardens. They include dandelion, purslane, burclover, various spurges and various thistles. Of course, there are too many to list. They grow and disperse their seed much more efficiently than desirable vegetation. That is how they invade home gardens and become such a prolific nuisance.

That is also why it is so helpful to remove weeds as soon as possible. Their subsequent generations will be less profuse if they disperse less seed now. Besides, they are easier to pull while only beginning to disperse roots within moist soil. They will be more difficult to pull when more established in drying soil later. Weeding may be tedious nonetheless.

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Microclimates Are Different From Climates

Southern exposures are sunny and warm.

Climates are regionally prevalent patterns of weather. The climate here is a chaparral or Mediterranean climate. It is characterized by warm and arid summers, and mild and rainy winters. Many adjacent climates are similar, even if slightly different. Coastal, alpine and desert climates occur elsewhere in California. Microclimates occur within such climates.

The climates of California are as diverse as the geology that influences them. Mountains and valleys and everything in between develops its distinct climate. Some counties here include more climates than some individual states. Many climate zones are impressively compact. So much diversity with small climate zones is often mistaken for microclimates.

Microclimates are small climates within bigger climates. This is obvious. However, there is no definitive description of how small they are. Climates generally conform to geology, like elevation, latitude and proximity of oceans. Microclimates generally conform to what is on such geology, like forests or pavement. They can fit within compact home gardens.

Roofs and pavement of urban areas absorb and radiate significant heat. Such heat alters associated microclimates. Conversely, urban trees and vegetation might cool associated microclimates. Home gardens that are near freeways may be slightly warmer than those that are not. Well forested neighborhoods are a bit cooler during warm summer weather.

These are large scale examples, though. Microclimates originate within individual home gardens also. Southern exposures are much sunnier and warmer or hotter than northern exposures. Eastern exposures are as sunny as western exposures, but are not as warm. Eaves might shelter vulnerable vegetation from mild frost, but also exclude rain moisture.

Microclimates can change as gardens evolve. Shade trees grow to produce more shade. Taller fences may replace shorter fences. Painting a home a different color changes how it reflects or absorbs sunlight. Awareness of microclimates facilitates selection of species for each particular situation. It also facilitates selection of situations for particular species.

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Warm Season Vegetables Are Next

Summer squash grows easiest from seed.

Warm season annuals know what time it is. Although it is still too early for many to move directly into gardens, a few already are. A few can start from seed, either in greenhouses or directly in their gardens. Eventually, as the weather warms, they all can live outside for the summer. Warm season vegetables, or summer vegetables, are in the same situation.

After all, almost all warm season vegetables perform as annuals. The weather is still too cool for seedlings to go out into their gardens. However, it is time to start some vegetable plants from seed. Some should start inside or in a greenhouse. Others might start directly in their gardens. The weather should be warm enough for them by the time they develop.

Seed for most root vegetables can go directly into their gardens now. Root vegetables do not recover from transplanting easily, so prefer direct sowing. Transplanted seedlings are susceptible to root disfigurement. Corn, squash and beans prefer direct sowing also, but should wait for warmer weather. Seedlings grow faster than the weather becomes warm.

Tomato and pepper plants prefer to go into the garden later as seedlings or small plants. Such small plants will become available from nurseries as they become more seasonal. Alternatively, they can start to grow from seed inside or in a greenhouse now. Their fresh seedlings should be ready for their garden as the weather warms. Scheduling is crucial.

The advantages to seed are that it is less expensive and more diverse than small plants. Packets of seed cost about as much as six packs of small plants, but contain many seed. Nurseries stock only a few varieties of each type of vegetable plant. However, they stock a few more varieties of seed for the same type of vegetables. Many are available online.

Cucumber, eggplant and melon can grow either from small plants or directly sown seed. A single small plant may be more practical for melon because only one plant is sufficient. However, if several cucumber plants are preferable, seed may be more practical. If seed are preferable, they can start soon. Small plants might wait a bit longer after the last frost.

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Warm Season Annuals Are Next

Cool season annuals serve their purpose.

Cool season annuals will probably finish sooner than they typically do this season. They do not enjoy the unseasonably but pleasantly warm and dry weather. It accelerates their brief life cycles. Fortunately, warm season annuals, or summer annuals, will be happy to replace them. They are the bedding plants that provide seasonal color until next autumn.

It is still too early for some types of warm season annuals. Several prefer to wait for more sustained warm weather with warmer nights. Petunia and sunflowers can wait until April or even May. This is only the beginning of the season, when the process of replacement begins. Some cool season annuals will not require replacement until petunias are ready.

For those who grow warm season annuals from seed, the season began notably earlier. Some seed starts within a greenhouse, two or three months prior to planting in a garden. For example, seed for petunias that go into the garden in April should be started already. Some annuals, such as nasturtium, should grow from seed sown directly into the garden.

Otherwise, the most popular warm season annuals begin in cell packs. Lobelia, alyssum and wax begonia are already available. Petunia and impatiens will become available as the season progresses. Many warm season annuals are available but more expensive in four inch pots. For substantial areas of bedding, cell pack annuals cover more uniformly.

Many warm season annuals are actually perennials that deteriorate through winter. Wax begonia can actually survive through winter to regenerate about now. Some cool season annuals can similarly survive through summer. There is no need, for example, to remove English primrose from mixed plantings. They can bloom late, and regenerate for autumn.

The same marigold that were popular for autumn are popular again for the end of winter. Ageratum may also be available already. Zinnia and annual salvias should be available a bit later in the season. So should cosmos and celosia. Bedding dahlia and calibrachoa may become available later, but in four inch pots. Coleus is a foliar warm season annual. Gomphrena and annual vinca have become uncommon. Ranunculus and anemone can perform as annuals.

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Summer Bulbs Can Start Now

Canna should bloom for next summer.

Spring bulbs go into their gardens through autumn because they enjoy the chill of winter. Summer bulbs do not. They instead prefer to wait until after the coolest of winter weather. If they start too early, some might decay in cool and damp soil before they begin to grow. Some may grow while the weather is warm only to incur damage from later cool weather.

However, they should not wait for too long. Summer bulbs dislike winter but enjoy spring. Those that start about now will be ready for it. By the time their new growth emerges from the soil, there will be no concern of frost. Although most generate only vegetative growth through spring, they bloom for summer. Many continue until frost or the following autumn.

Summer bulbs, like spring bulbs, are merely dormant perennials. Only a few are actually bulbs, though. Most are corms, rhizomes or tubers. They produce new foliage and bloom while the weather is warm. Then, they go dormant as the weather cools for the following autumn or winter. Once in the garden, several types can stay and perpetuate indefinitely.

For example, new canna rhizomes might rot if they go into the garden too early in winter. However, after their first summer, they can survive in the garden through their next winter. Dahlias might also survive winter dormancy in the garden. However, they are more likely to survive if dug and stored for winter. Their tubers might return to the garden about now.

Summer bulbs that are actually bulbs or corms, such as gladiolus, generally bloom once. Dahlias grow from tubers, so bloom for a more extensive season. Summer bulbs that are rhizomes, such as gingers, may bloom once or sporadically. Gingers and crocosmia can eventually become invasive. However, gladiolus is rarely as sustainable as it should be.

Summer bulbs become available from nurseries as it becomes time to plant them. Some are available now, and more will become available as their season progresses. Dahlias, cannas and callas should be available growing in pots after early spring. Summer bulbs that proliferate a bit too much are easy to share. Many propagate very easily by division. Most perform as well within large pots and planters as they do in the soil.

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Citrus Fruits Ripen Through Winter

Citrus fruits of winter include lemons.

Planting and pruning of deciduous fruit trees are priorities for winter. Evergreen fruit trees are not as much of a concern. For them, planting and pruning should happen after winter. However, most citrus trees are most productive with their summerish fruit through winter. Oranges, lemons, limes, Mandarin oranges, grapefruit and more are ripening about now.

With the exception of Mandarin oranges, most citrus fruits are impressively durable. Most can last for months on their trees, which is likely why they seem so summerish. Mandarin oranges have loose skin, which causes them to oxidize faster than the others. ‘Valencia’ oranges, though, can linger for a year after ripening. They actually sweeten as they age.

Also, some cultivars of citrus extend their production with sporadic fruiting. While ‘Lisbon’ lemon fruits only for winter, ‘Eureka’ lemon fruits more sporadically. ‘Eureka’ is actually a cultivar or cultivated variety of ‘Lisbon’. Although a bit less productive in season, ‘Eureka’ produces several fruits out of season. It rarely disappoints by failing to provide a few fruit.

Oranges and lemons are the most familiar of citrus. They are surprisingly diverse though. ‘Meyer’ lemon is almost as acidic as other lemons, but with a richer flavor like an orange. Most oranges are dessert oranges for eating out of hand, but ‘Valencia’ is for juice. Blood oranges are for juicing, but ‘Moro’ is a dessert orange. Sour oranges are for marmalades.

Mandarin oranges that developed in the Americas formerly classified as tangerines. Now they seem to qualify as Mandarin oranges, like more traditional Mandarin oranges. They collectively might be the most diverse class of popular citrus. More cultivars of Mandarin orange are available than the others. ‘Rangpur’ lime is actually a sour Mandarin orange.

There is so much variety among citrus. Besides oranges, lemons and Mandarin oranges, there are too many to list. Grapefruit, limes kumquats, pomelos, calamondins and citrons are a few examples. Limequats are hybrids of limes and kumquats. Tangelos are hybrids of grapefruit and Mandarin oranges. Orangequats are hybrids of oranges and kumquats.

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Alternating Canes Favors New Growth

Pruning should stimulate vigorous new growth.

Dormant pruning happens during winter for one primary reason; dormancy. For the same reason, most alternating canes pruning should happen during winter. The results of such pruning will become obvious during the following spring or summer. New growth should be more vigorous. Bloom and any subsequent fruit production should be more abundant.

Alternating canes is similar to coppicing, but not as drastic. Coppicing entails pruning all growth down to the ground. Alternating canes involves pruning only old and deteriorating stems to the ground. Younger and more vigorous stems remain with more space to grow and bloom. The process essentially promotes constant growth of more productive stems.

Pruning grape vines with this technique is a bit different. It entails pruning old canes only back to their permanent trunks, rather than to the ground. In that regard, it is more similar to pollarding, but not as drastic. Pollarding entails pruning all growth back to a trunk or a few main limbs. Small grape vines might support only a pair of canes after such pruning.

Most, but not all, alternating canes pruning should happen during winter dormancy. Lilac and Forsythia bloom profusely for early spring, but generate no fruit. Therefore, for them, alternating canes pruning may occur immediately after bloom. Delay of such pruning can allow old canes to bloom one last time prior to their removal. It maximizes floral potential.

Some species that benefit from alternating canes pruning happen to be evergreen. Their pruning can happen whenever it is convenient for them, even if not during winter. Abelia, for example, may be rather sparse after such pruning. It remains sparse for longer during early winter than late in winter. Oregon grape and Heavenly bamboo are also evergreen.

Proper dormant pruning for several types of plants involves alternating canes by default. These include, but are not limited to, roses, hydrangeas, elderberries, and cane berries. Some types of filbert, and some types of cotoneaster are less common examples. Witch hazels, like forsythias and lilacs, should bloom prior to pruning. Bamboos are conducive to alternating canes whenever they appear to get unkempt.