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Warm Season Annuals Are Next

Cool season annuals serve their purpose.

Cool season annuals will probably finish sooner than they typically do this season. They do not enjoy the unseasonably but pleasantly warm and dry weather. It accelerates their brief life cycles. Fortunately, warm season annuals, or summer annuals, will be happy to replace them. They are the bedding plants that provide seasonal color until next autumn.

It is still too early for some types of warm season annuals. Several prefer to wait for more sustained warm weather with warmer nights. Petunia and sunflowers can wait until April or even May. This is only the beginning of the season, when the process of replacement begins. Some cool season annuals will not require replacement until petunias are ready.

For those who grow warm season annuals from seed, the season began notably earlier. Some seed starts within a greenhouse, two or three months prior to planting in a garden. For example, seed for petunias that go into the garden in April should be started already. Some annuals, such as nasturtium, should grow from seed sown directly into the garden.

Otherwise, the most popular warm season annuals begin in cell packs. Lobelia, alyssum and wax begonia are already available. Petunia and impatiens will become available as the season progresses. Many warm season annuals are available but more expensive in four inch pots. For substantial areas of bedding, cell pack annuals cover more uniformly.

Many warm season annuals are actually perennials that deteriorate through winter. Wax begonia can actually survive through winter to regenerate about now. Some cool season annuals can similarly survive through summer. There is no need, for example, to remove English primrose from mixed plantings. They can bloom late, and regenerate for autumn.

The same marigold that were popular for autumn are popular again for the end of winter. Ageratum may also be available already. Zinnia and annual salvias should be available a bit later in the season. So should cosmos and celosia. Bedding dahlia and calibrachoa may become available later, but in four inch pots. Coleus is a foliar warm season annual. Gomphrena and annual vinca have become uncommon. Ranunculus and anemone can perform as annuals.

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Summer Bulbs Can Start Now

Canna should bloom for next summer.

Spring bulbs go into their gardens through autumn because they enjoy the chill of winter. Summer bulbs do not. They instead prefer to wait until after the coolest of winter weather. If they start too early, some might decay in cool and damp soil before they begin to grow. Some may grow while the weather is warm only to incur damage from later cool weather.

However, they should not wait for too long. Summer bulbs dislike winter but enjoy spring. Those that start about now will be ready for it. By the time their new growth emerges from the soil, there will be no concern of frost. Although most generate only vegetative growth through spring, they bloom for summer. Many continue until frost or the following autumn.

Summer bulbs, like spring bulbs, are merely dormant perennials. Only a few are actually bulbs, though. Most are corms, rhizomes or tubers. They produce new foliage and bloom while the weather is warm. Then, they go dormant as the weather cools for the following autumn or winter. Once in the garden, several types can stay and perpetuate indefinitely.

For example, new canna rhizomes might rot if they go into the garden too early in winter. However, after their first summer, they can survive in the garden through their next winter. Dahlias might also survive winter dormancy in the garden. However, they are more likely to survive if dug and stored for winter. Their tubers might return to the garden about now.

Summer bulbs that are actually bulbs or corms, such as gladiolus, generally bloom once. Dahlias grow from tubers, so bloom for a more extensive season. Summer bulbs that are rhizomes, such as gingers, may bloom once or sporadically. Gingers and crocosmia can eventually become invasive. However, gladiolus is rarely as sustainable as it should be.

Summer bulbs become available from nurseries as it becomes time to plant them. Some are available now, and more will become available as their season progresses. Dahlias, cannas and callas should be available growing in pots after early spring. Summer bulbs that proliferate a bit too much are easy to share. Many propagate very easily by division. Most perform as well within large pots and planters as they do in the soil.

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Citrus Fruits Ripen Through Winter

Citrus fruits of winter include lemons.

Planting and pruning of deciduous fruit trees are priorities for winter. Evergreen fruit trees are not as much of a concern. For them, planting and pruning should happen after winter. However, most citrus trees are most productive with their summerish fruit through winter. Oranges, lemons, limes, Mandarin oranges, grapefruit and more are ripening about now.

With the exception of Mandarin oranges, most citrus fruits are impressively durable. Most can last for months on their trees, which is likely why they seem so summerish. Mandarin oranges have loose skin, which causes them to oxidize faster than the others. ‘Valencia’ oranges, though, can linger for a year after ripening. They actually sweeten as they age.

Also, some cultivars of citrus extend their production with sporadic fruiting. While ‘Lisbon’ lemon fruits only for winter, ‘Eureka’ lemon fruits more sporadically. ‘Eureka’ is actually a cultivar or cultivated variety of ‘Lisbon’. Although a bit less productive in season, ‘Eureka’ produces several fruits out of season. It rarely disappoints by failing to provide a few fruit.

Oranges and lemons are the most familiar of citrus. They are surprisingly diverse though. ‘Meyer’ lemon is almost as acidic as other lemons, but with a richer flavor like an orange. Most oranges are dessert oranges for eating out of hand, but ‘Valencia’ is for juice. Blood oranges are for juicing, but ‘Moro’ is a dessert orange. Sour oranges are for marmalades.

Mandarin oranges that developed in the Americas formerly classified as tangerines. Now they seem to qualify as Mandarin oranges, like more traditional Mandarin oranges. They collectively might be the most diverse class of popular citrus. More cultivars of Mandarin orange are available than the others. ‘Rangpur’ lime is actually a sour Mandarin orange.

There is so much variety among citrus. Besides oranges, lemons and Mandarin oranges, there are too many to list. Grapefruit, limes kumquats, pomelos, calamondins and citrons are a few examples. Limequats are hybrids of limes and kumquats. Tangelos are hybrids of grapefruit and Mandarin oranges. Orangequats are hybrids of oranges and kumquats.

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Alternating Canes Favors New Growth

Pruning should stimulate vigorous new growth.

Dormant pruning happens during winter for one primary reason; dormancy. For the same reason, most alternating canes pruning should happen during winter. The results of such pruning will become obvious during the following spring or summer. New growth should be more vigorous. Bloom and any subsequent fruit production should be more abundant.

Alternating canes is similar to coppicing, but not as drastic. Coppicing entails pruning all growth down to the ground. Alternating canes involves pruning only old and deteriorating stems to the ground. Younger and more vigorous stems remain with more space to grow and bloom. The process essentially promotes constant growth of more productive stems.

Pruning grape vines with this technique is a bit different. It entails pruning old canes only back to their permanent trunks, rather than to the ground. In that regard, it is more similar to pollarding, but not as drastic. Pollarding entails pruning all growth back to a trunk or a few main limbs. Small grape vines might support only a pair of canes after such pruning.

Most, but not all, alternating canes pruning should happen during winter dormancy. Lilac and Forsythia bloom profusely for early spring, but generate no fruit. Therefore, for them, alternating canes pruning may occur immediately after bloom. Delay of such pruning can allow old canes to bloom one last time prior to their removal. It maximizes floral potential.

Some species that benefit from alternating canes pruning happen to be evergreen. Their pruning can happen whenever it is convenient for them, even if not during winter. Abelia, for example, may be rather sparse after such pruning. It remains sparse for longer during early winter than late in winter. Oregon grape and Heavenly bamboo are also evergreen.

Proper dormant pruning for several types of plants involves alternating canes by default. These include, but are not limited to, roses, hydrangeas, elderberries, and cane berries. Some types of filbert, and some types of cotoneaster are less common examples. Witch hazels, like forsythias and lilacs, should bloom prior to pruning. Bamboos are conducive to alternating canes whenever they appear to get unkempt.

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Live Christmas Trees Grow Up

Living Christmas trees eventually grow up.

Cut Christmas trees are the epitome of cut foliage. They grow on farms until harvest, like most other cut foliage. They then beautify homes and other interior spaces for Christmas. Ultimately, they become compost or green waste. Live Christmas trees are very different. They also grow on farms, and beautify interior spaces, but are living, evergreen conifers.

They are supposed to be the more sustainable option. Ideally, some live Christmas trees function as such for multiple years. A few are actually appropriate to home gardens when they grow too big to bring in. Realistically though, most live Christmas trees grow too fast and too large. Some actually become more of an environmental detriment than an asset.

Furthermore, live Christmas trees are actually less sustainable than cut Christmas trees. Cut Christmas trees grow on plantations where they need merely irrigation and fertilizer. Live Christmas trees require plastic pots, synthetic growing medium and more fertilizers. They only become sustainable after several years of reliable service as Christmas trees.

Among live Christmas trees, the more expensive sorts are typically the most sustainable. Various spruces grow slowly enough to remain potted and symmetrical for several years. They are more expensive because they take so long to grow to marketable size. As they outgrow their pots, most are proportionate to home gardens. Few grow as big shrubbery.

A few compact cultivars of fir and even pine are about as sustainable as spruces. Lemon cypress, Eastern red cedar and arborvitae are more conducive to shearing. Even as they grow faster, they can remain confined to pots for quite a few years. Afterwards, they might fit well into a garden. If not, they can be given to neighbors who can accommodate them.

Cheap, overly common and pre-decorated live Christmas trees are the least sustainable. Almost all are Italian stone pine or Canary Island pine. A few might be Aleppo pine. They may be pretty while new, but do not perform well for long as potted plants. However, they grow much too large for compact home gardens. Their long term options are very limited. Big trees require big landscapes.

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Dormant Pruning For Fruit Trees

Dormant pruning is severe but specialized.

Bare root season begins now because bare root stock is so efficiently dormant for winter. Dormancy is the same reason that this is now also time for dormant pruning of fruit trees. It is comparable to anesthesia for surgery. Affected fruit trees waken from dormancy after winter with no idea of what happened. They then resume growth as if nothing happened.

Dormant pruning is important because of the unnatural breeding of most fruit trees. They have been bred to produce unnaturally large and unnaturally abundant fruit. Their fruit is so excessive that they can not support all that they could produce. Dormant pruning both limits production and concentrates resources. Resulting fruit is less abundant but bigger.

Bigger, better but less abundant fruits collectively weigh less than overly abundant fruits. Furthermore, dormant pruning improves structural integrity of affected trees. So, affected trees are able to support more weight but must support less. Ideally, they should need no propping for limbs that are too heavy with fruit. Limbs should not break from their weight.

Dormant pruning also directs and stimulates growth. It should prevent stems from getting so high that their fruit is beyond reach. Actually, most fruit should be within reach from the ground without a ladder. Vigorous growth is more resistant to pathogens than congested and less vigorous growth. There are actually quite a few advantages of dormant pruning.

Stone fruit trees and pome fruit trees are popular types that need dormant pruning. Stone fruit include apricot, cherry, nectarine, peach, plum and prune. They need similar pruning but to varying degrees. Peach needs more severe pruning because its fruit is so big and heavy. Cherry needs less aggressive pruning. Apple, pear and quince are all pome fruit.

Deciduous fruit trees are quite demanding, and reliant on timely dormant pruning. Those who would like to grow them should first be aware of their cultural requirements. Diligent research of pruning technique is helpful. Practical and annual experience is even better. Each year, it is an opportunity to observe how subject trees respond to dormant pruning.

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Bare Root Season Begins Now

Bare root stock is less expensive.

Wintry weather, although unpleasant at times, has certain advantages. Most importantly, it provides rain here, and snow in the mountains for water reserves. Gardening would be very different with any less. Also, cool weather initiates dormancy for most plant species, giving them a time for rest prior to spring. This is what makes bare root season possible.

Bare root stock is exactly what it sounds like. It is available for sale without the soil that it grew in. Some comes with an individual bag of moist sawdust around its otherwise bare roots. Most merely rests with its otherwise exposed roots in damp sand at nurseries until purchase. Because it is so portable, much is available by mail order, or online purchase.

Bare root stock becomes available now because this is when it is dormant. It comes into nurseries as readily as Christmas trees relinquish their space. Because it is dormant, it is unaware of what is happening to it. Dormancy works like an anesthetic for major surgery. Ideally, bare root stock awakens in its new gardens without any idea how it arrived there.

There are several advantages to bare root stock. It is much less expensive than canned, or potted, nursery stock. It is less cumbersome to bring home from nurseries. Because its roots were never confined, they disperse readily into surrounding soil. For some types of plants, more varieties are available bare root. Several plants are only available as such.

Roses and fruit trees are the most popular of bare root plants. More cultivars of roses are available now than at any other time of year. Fruit trees include primarily stone fruits and pome fruits. Stone fruits include apricot, cherry, plum, prune, nectarine and peach as well as almond. Pome fruits include apple, pear, crabapple and Asian pear as well as quince.

Cane berries, including blackberry and raspberry, are also available with bare root stock. So are perennial fruit and vegetables like strawberry, rhubarb, artichoke and asparagus. A few deciduous but fruitless shrubs, trees, vines or perennials are sometimes available. These might include lilac, forsythia, clematis, wisteria, astilbe and deciduous magnolias. Grapevines and nut trees are also available.

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Winter Flowers May Be Scarce

Not many flowers bloom for winter.

Evergreen foliage and berries are now popular for home decor for a primary reason. Not many winter flowers are blooming and available for cutting and bringing in. Most flowers prefer to bloom while more pollinators are more active. Not many pollinators are out and about while weather is cool through winter. Consequently, winter flowers may be scarce.

However, they are not actually as scarce as they seem to be. Some winter flowers bloom without drawing attention to themselves. They do not need to if they rely on wind for their pollination. Colorful flowers are colorful only to attract pollinators. For example, redwood is blooming quite privately about now. It produces no prominently colorful flowers to see.

Some winter flowers do not actually intend to bloom in winter. They are merely confused by the local climates. For example, African daisy blooms whenever the weather is warm. It does not know to stop blooming for winter here because the weather is not overly cold. Cala are tropicals, so have no concept of winter. They should not bloom, but might try to.

Camellias are some of the most familiar and popular winter flowers. Sasanqua camellias bloom before common camellias. Different cultivars of each type bloom at different times. The latest sasanqua camellias might actually bloom after the earliest common camellias. Sasanqua camellias bloom more abundantly. Common camellias provide larger flowers.

Although most salvia bloom during warmer weather, a few bloom sporadically for winter. Autumn sage seems to never be completely without bloom. Meanwhile, cultivars of witch hazel bloom curiously on bare stems. So does winter jasmine, but only in yellow. Oregon grape can bloom impressively within cooler climates. It is evergreen and blooms yellow.

Many of the better winter flowers are cool season annuals, which are no good for cutting. These comprise pansy, viola, cyclamen, dianthus, snapdragon, nemesia and primroses. Stock is exceptional, because it can be cut and brought inside and is splendidly fragrant. Ornamental kale and ornamental cabbage are foliar plants that present like wide flowers.

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Evergreen Foliage For Christmas Decor

Pines provide delightful cut evergreen foliage.

Berries such as firethorn might be the most colorful features of some home gardens now. Flowers can be scarce for late autumn and winter. Yet, people still enjoy decorating their homes with vegetation from their gardens. Cut evergreen foliage actually becomes more popular than cut flowers had been. It is a basic component of traditional Christmas decor.

Christmas trees are the most extreme form of cut evergreen foliage. With few exceptions, though, they do not grow within home gardens. Instead, they grow on farms and become available for sale before Christmas. Availability from such sources is remarkably diverse. Not many home gardens have adequate space for cut Christmas tree cultivation anyway.

Wreaths and garlands are the second most extreme forms of cut evergreen foliage. Many are available for sale like cut Christmas trees are. However, many people create wreaths and garlands from what inhabits their gardens. After all, wreaths and garlands are merely stylized floral design which lack containers. Most, but not all, lack anything floral as well.

Because wreaths and garlands lack containers, their components must not wilt too soon. The best evergreen foliage is coniferous. However, some broadleaf foliage works nicely. Even defoliated deciduous twigs can be intriguing. Pine cones can substitute for flowers. There are not many rules to floral design, or for the composition of wreaths and garlands.

Collection of evergreen foliage for wreaths and garlands should not disrupt a landscape. Ideally, such foliage should be in need of removal anyway. For example, stems that need pruning can provide significant material. Pruning cuts from source material must be done properly, without stubs or disfigurement. The many rules of responsible gardening apply.

Fir, spruce, pine and cedar are some of the better evergreen foliage for Christmas decor. They are uncommon, though, within local home gardens. Italian cypress, arborvitae and juniper are more common. Boxwood, various hollies and various pittosporums are some broadleaf alternatives. Southern magnolia and New Zealand flax may add bold contrast. So do coral bark Japanese maple twigs or tufts of ornamental grass.

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Frost Protection

For many species, frost damage is not as bad as it looks.

            My colleague in the Los Angeles area still sends me seeds for all sorts of strange plants that I probably should not be growing in my less climactically temperate garden, making it difficult to conform to the primary rule of frost protection: ‘Select plants that are appropriate to the particular climate.’ No matter how often I remind my clients of this rule, I really do not want to abide by it. There are just too many interesting but inappropriate plants.

            So the next option is to grow frost sensitive plants in containers that can be moved to sheltered areas prior to frost. That worked while I had an extra parking space in the carport and some room under the porch for giant bird-of-Paradise, plumeria, philodendrons and such. Eventually though, some of these plants get too large to be contained; and I really do not want to keep pruning them back. Besides, I prefer to grow things in the ground.

            The third option is to put sensitive plants in spots that are naturally warmer, or where they are sheltered below the canopies of large evergreen trees, lath or wide eaves. Just remember that plants under eaves are also sheltered from rain, so may need to be watered occasionally through winter. Steep slopes are not quite as cold because cold air drains off. However, flat areas below slopes get colder as they catch cold air that drains from uphill. South facing exposures are of course warmer than northern exposures.

            I know probably better than most that there are always some plants that are not ‘appropriate to the particular climate’, that I do not want to grow in pots, and that prefer to be out in exposed parts of the garden. For example, bougainvilleas are somewhat tender, have sensitive roots that do not like to be confined, and really want to be out in the open to take advantage of warming sunshine during summer. Such plants in colder areas will either need to be protected, or will get damaged by frost.

            Burlap suspended above the foliage by stakes is typically enough to protect sensitive plants from frost. I have used old towels and linens where my neighbors can not see. Plastic sheeting is also effective, but should be removed before sunlight warms the air too much underneath. Paper grocery bags or cardboard boxes are enough for small plants.

            I actually allow some of my larger plants that would be difficult to cover to get damaged by frost, and then prune out the damage later. If they are too big to cover easily, they are probably big enough to survive frost. Damaged stems should be left until the end of winter both to insulate stems below, and also because early pruning stimulates new growth that is even more sensitive to frost.