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Renee’s Garden Seed

‘Alaska’ is a popular variegated variety of nasturtium that is available from Renee’s Garden Seed.

There is no shame in growing nasturtiums. We all know how easy they are to grow, and that they can even naturalize. Some of us even consider them to be weeds. Some of us even know them as ‘dago pansies’! Yet, they are colorful, have an abundance of appealing foliage and never seem to have a bad day. Anyone who doubts this should look at Renee’s Garden Seed Catalogue online at www.reneesgarden.com.

Renee’s Garden Seed Catalogue is like a wine list of the finest nasturtiums, even though it also includes many of the more traditional types. ‘Buttercream’ is a new nasturtium this year that blooms with semi-double cream colored flowers! Pale yellow ‘Moonlight’ and bright scarlet ‘Spitfire’ are two climbing nasturtiums that get several feet tall.

Even those of us who primarily want to get vegetable and herb seeds will want to try some of the many unusual flowers, as well as some of the more traditional flowers that are available from Renee’s Garden Seed Catalogue. Besides nasturtiums, there are also many different kinds of sweet peas, sunflowers and morning glories. ‘April in Paris’ is an intensely fragrant sweet pea with large pale yellow flowers that become blushed as they mature. ‘Royal Flush’ is a new sunflower with bi-colored flowers in combinations of gold, dark red and brown. ‘Mailbox Mix’ morning glories have both clear blue and white flowers.  

Mixed seeds may not seem like a good idea for those of us who like organized gardens; but Renee’s Garden color coded vegetable seed mixes have a distinct advantage. The seeds of different varieties within a mix are dyed different colors so they can be separated if desired. It is like getting a few packets of different seed within each mix. Individual packets of seed typically contain more seeds than necessary anyway. (Not all mixes are color coded.)

(Outdated information has been omitted from this recycled article.)

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Summery Bulbs After Spring Bulbs

Many summery bulbs bloom only once.

Spring bulbs prefer an earlier start, and several appreciate a bit of winter chill. Summery bulbs, or summer bulbs or late bulbs, prefer a later start to avoid such chill. Most tolerate minor frost, but none benefit from it. If too early, some can start to decay while waiting for warmer weather. Some can grow prematurely, and perhaps incur damage from late frost.

Summery bulbs are in season now because they take a bit of time to grow. The potential for frost should be minimal as their foliage emerges above their soil. Once established in their first seasons, many could stay in their gardens indefinitely. They should be resilient to minor frost by their second seasons. Most that incur damage should recover efficiently.

However, many summery bulbs are not reliably perennial. Cannas and gingers can grow aggressively enough to become invasive. Gladiolus, though, may bloom half as much for subsequent seasons until none remain. Some who like to grow dahlias prefer to dig and store the tubers through winter. This is more likely to protect them from rot than from frost.

Incidentally, few summery bulbs are actually bulbs. Most are perennial rhizomes, corms, tubers or tuberous roots. Some, especially those that grow from tubers or tuberous roots, bloom longer. Those that grow from bulbs, corms and rhizomes mostly bloom only once. Succession planting prolongs their first bloom seasons, but they synchronize afterwards.

After their summer bloom seasons, most summery bulbs defoliate for a winter dormancy. This is actually why they are in season now. After all, winter dormancy is the best time for transplanting, division and thinning. Cannas and gingers could try to retain some foliage through winter. Cutting it all back might be easier than grooming it from new foliage later.

Dahlias might be the most popular of summery bulbs. Cannas and gingers are likely the second most common. Alliums and old fashioned tuberous begonias are becoming more popular. Tuberous begonias are not so easy to grow, though. Crocosmias are too easy to grow, and are invasive. Alocasias and colocasias provide colorful and boldly big leaves.

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Rock Gardens

Succulents that would not survive in alpine gardens where rock gardens were originally popularized are quite popular for rock gardens here.

Rock gardens, as they are known now, evolved from more traditional alpine gardens that were designed to display specimens of small plants found in the mountains of Europe. These plants were mostly compact and slow growing to be adapted to the harsh climates and rocky soils of higher elevations, but do not compete well with more aggressive plants. They consequently need their own space, and are quite happy surrounded by rock or gravel to insulate the surface of the soil and control weeds. Slight slopes, as well as the abundance of rock, enhance drainage to replicate mountainous conditions.

Compact plants from all over the world now find homes in rock gardens. The compact nature of rock garden makes them practical for small spaces, particularly where slopes make other gardening difficult. Sculptural, colorful or lichen covered rocks, as well as garden sculpture, can be as ornamental as the plants that surround them. Larger stones can substitute for low retaining walls.

Plants for rock gardens do not need to be from mountainous areas, but should be compact. They must also be appropriate to the particular microclimate. For example, small succulents and cacti want to be as exposed in a rock garden as they would be in a real landscape. Lily-of-the-valley shrub conversely prefers sheltered cooler spots.

Trees for rock gardens are generally very small. Pendulous (weeping) and dwarf Japanese maples are more desirable than those that eventually grow into mid sized trees. Dwarf forms of spruce, eastern hemlock, cedar, fir and false cypress all work well. There are also several dwarf pines to choose from, including dwarf cultivars of Scots, Japanese red, tanyosho, mugho, white and pinon pines.

Dwarf forms of cotoneaster, hebe, holly, rockrose, germander and Japanese barberry have become as popular in rock gardens as the more traditional small heathers and heaths. There are several compact junipers as well. Some rock gardens plants grow into small shrubbery. Others sprawl about as mats or dense ground cover.  

Thrift (sea pink), campanula, snow-in-summer, fleabane, coral bells, plantain lily, evergreen candytuft, carpet bugle (Ajuga spp.), and small herbs like thyme and oregano are some of the more popular perennials for rock gardens. Mat forming penstemon, columbine, cranesbill, saxifrage, rockcress and dwarf types of dianthus and primrose are more difficult to obtain, but worth trying. There are of course many small succulents like aeonium, echeveria, stonecrop (sedum) and ice-plant.

Crocus, grape hyacinth, snowdrop and wild freesia are the only common bulbs that are well suited to rock gardens. Uncommon dwarf cyclamen (not Cyclamen persicum), small types of narcissus and diminutive iris that can sometimes be found by mail order catalogues, online, or occasionally in nurseries that stock unusual plants are actually more proportionate to rock gardens than they are in more typical types of gardens.

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Arboriculture Is Very Specialized Horticulture

Arborists specialize in the big trees.

Horticulture is as diversified as horticultural professionals. Nurserymen grow horticultural commodities. Landscape designers plan installation of the commodities into landscapes. Landscapers construct the landscapes. Gardeners maintain them afterward. Florists use floral commodities. Arborists specialize in arboriculture, which is the horticulture of trees.

Arboriculture is necessary because trees are so substantial. Although most arborists can work with smaller trees, larger trees are their priority. Other horticultural professionals are neither qualified nor able to work with such trees. Similarly, arborists are too specialized to engage with landscape design or floristry. Arboriculture is truly an intensive discipline.

Many garden enthusiasts maintain their own trees while such trees are somewhat small. Some trees, such as dwarf citrus and Japanese maples, stay small. However, most trees eventually grow beyond reach from the ground. Even within gardens that lack gardeners, arborists might become necessary. This is certainly not something to be negligent about.

When pansies get tired in spring, gardeners can replace them with petunias for summer. Trees are completely different. They are the most substantial and persistent vegetation in their respective landscapes. Some can survive for a few centuries. The consequences of their neglect can be disastrous. Arboriculture is crucial to the safety of their environment.

The importance of arboriculture typically becomes more apparent during wintry weather. Rain destabilizes roots. Wind weakens the integrity of limbs and trunks. Generally, trees become messier and more hazardous than at other times of year. However, arboriculture is a concern throughout the year. Spontaneous limb failure is more likely during summer.

Besides, several procedures for certain trees are more appropriate during other seasons. Furthermore, mitigation of potential problems is easier before they become emergencies. Information about arboriculture is available from the International Society of Arboriculture or ISA. Their website, which also provides a list of certified arborists, is at isa-arbor.com.

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Restorative Pruning

There is some good flowering quince in there, . . . somewhere.

Winter is the time to go wild in the garden, while plants are mostly dormant and not aware of what is going on. This is the time to tend to all the aggressive pruning that fruit trees and roses need annually, and to take care of overgrown deciduous plants that may not need to be pruned every year, but need it now. . . or may have needed it last year. . . or even a few years ago.

Regardless, if they are bare now, they are dormant. By the time their buds start to swell in spring, it will be too late, since they will no longer be dormant, and are likely to be damaged by overly aggressive pruning. Evergreen plants that can be sensitive to frost, like avocadoes and citrus, are the only ones that should not be pruned now, since aggressive pruning may stimulate new growth that is even more sensitive to late frost.

Plants that are too overgrown to be salvaged by tame pruning or typical shearing should be evaluated. Would a particular plant be more desirable if it were tamed? Is removal the only alternative to aggressive pruning? It is sometimes worth taking a chance that an obtrusively overgrown but otherwise desirable plant may actually be killed by aggressive renovation if it is about to removed anyway. For example, overgrown oleanders can be cut down instead of removed. Those that survive will grow into fresh new shrubs by the end of summer.

(The last paragraph of this recycled article is omitted here because the information that it provides about a particular horticultural event is very outdated.)

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Citrus Are Summery For Winter

Limes are the most diverse citrus.

Citrus trees are not like deciduous fruit trees. They are not marketable as bare root stock. They do not need winter pruning. Actually, winter pruning might initiate premature growth that is vulnerable to frost. Deciduous fruit trees remain dormant so can only dream about fruiting for next summer. Citrus trees are happily evergreen, and fruiting abundantly now.

Citrus somehow seem to be more summery than fruit that actually ripen for summer. Iced lemonade is so traditional for warm summer weather. Oranges for Christmas might seem to be out of season when they really are not. Although Mandarin oranges are perishable, other ripe citrus last for weeks or months. Several ripen sporadically throughout the year.

‘Valencia’ oranges, which are the traditional juicing oranges, might last through summer. They may sustain the belief that orange juice is a summery beverage. Several grapefruit cultivars can last about as long. ‘Eureka’ lemon is mostly seasonal, but also generates a few fruits throughout the year. ‘Bearss’ lime may be even more productive out of season.

With only one exception, all species and cultivars of citrus are of the same Citrus genus. Kumquats are of the Fortunella genus, but typically qualify as Citrus for simplicity. Citrus fruit is sweet, sour or bitter. Most familiar oranges are sweet. ‘Seville’ is a sour orange for marmalade. ‘Bouquet de Fleur’ is a bitter orange for infusing with Grand Marnier cognac.

Oranges, lemons, limes, grapefruits, kumquats and Mandarins are all very familiar. All of these fruits are available from grocery markets. Their trees grow in many home gardens. Tangerines are simply Mandarins or Mandarin oranges of the Americas. Pomelos, which are larger ancestors of grapefruits, are still uncommon. So are tiny and tart calamondins.

They are not the most unusual, though. Blood oranges provide tangy red juice. ‘Rangpur’ lime is a sour Mandarin orange that is as acidic as a ‘Eureka’ lemon. Tangelos combines the tartness of grapefruits with the sweetness of Mandarin oranges. Sweet limes lack the acidity of typical limes, so are for eating like oranges. These are merely a few examples.

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Dormant Pruning of Deciduous Fruit Trees

Almond trees require specialized dormant pruning.

There is nothing like the flavor of ripe fruit fresh off the tree during summer; whether cherries and then plums, prunes and apricots early, or peaches and nectarines in the middle, or pears and apples at the end of summer. Even though summer is still a few months away, it is already time to get ready for summer fruits, as well as almonds, by pruning the deciduous fruit trees that produce them while they are still dormant in winter.

Because fruit trees have been bred over the past many centuries to produce unnaturally large and abundant fruit, most are unable to support the weight of their own fruit without some sort of unnatural intervention. Trees consequently need to be pruned so that they do not produce so much fruit that their limbs break, destroying the fruit and disfiguring the trees. Pruning also helps to concentrate resources into fruit of superior quality instead of excessive but inferior fruit.

There are as many different techniques for pruning deciduous fruit trees as there are different types of deciduous fruit trees, and certainly too many to write about in a single gardening article. For example, cherries, plums, prunes, apricots, peaches, nectarines and almonds are all ‘stone fruit’ which need varying degrees of similar pruning. Peach trees produce the heaviest fruit, so require the most aggressive pruning. Cherry trees are pruned in a similar manner, but only minimally because they are not so overburdened with fruit. Only evergreen fruit trees like citrus, avocado, guava, olive and tropical fruits do not get some sort of pruning this time of year.

(Stone fruit have substantial seeds which are known as ‘stones’. Almonds are the stones of the fruit that comprises their hulls.) 

It is best to become familiar with the pruning requirement of each type of fruit tree before planting them, since some are simply too labor intensive for some people, and most are too involved for almost all maintenance gardeners. It is also easiest to start with young trees and become more familiar and comfortable with pruning them as they grow over the years.

(Because this post is from an old article, outdated information was deleted below.)

Apricot, cherry, prune, almond, walnut, apple, pear, plum, fig and various other trees will be there. The 3.3 acre Historic Orchard was developed in 1994 to include more than 220 of the many types of fruit and nut trees that once made the Santa Clara Valley famous as the Valley of Hearts Delight.

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Coppiced Vegetation Regenerates With Vigor

Coppicing can alleviate congested basal growth.

Winter dormancy has advantages. It facilitates acquisition and establishment of bare root stock, and winter dormant pruning. Coppicing and pollarding are the most severe sorts of winter dormant pruning. Although initially ugly, coppiced and pollarded vegetation mostly grow vigorously later. Most species bloom and fruit better. All species foliate more lushly.

There is certainly nothing wrong with proper coppicing and pollarding. Both are common beyond America, particularly within Europe. However, both are very unfortunately vilified as disfigurement here. Not many arborists know how to perform such techniques, or may not admit to it. Yet, some coppiced vegetation is covertly popular in some home gardens.

Coppicing and pollarding are genuinely extreme and harsh techniques. Coppicing is the removal of almost all growth that is above the surface of the ground. For some shrubbery or trees, short stumps may remain. Coppiced vegetation is therefore not much to look at. Pollarding is similar, but retains primary trunks and limbs. Pollarded trees seem hideous.

Hideousness is subjective, though. By European standards, pollarding is an acceptable horticultural technique. European arborists know how to perform it properly during winter dormancy. They do so neatly, without stubs or torn bark, and direct growth as necessary. Coppiced vegetation is not as hideous because not much of it remains to see afterwards.

Because of its vilification, coppicing became more tolerable with different classifications. “Cutting back” perennials, such as African iris, lion’s tail and canna, is the same process. So is cutting back carpet roses or honeysuckle to the ground. The alternate classification is more acceptable. It is just as effective for removal of thicket or deteriorating old growth.

Also, coppiced vegetation regenerates more vigorously for spring than it may otherwise. Elderberries prefer selective grooming, but coppiced plants produce bigger fruit clusters. English Laurel, osmanthus, photinia and red twig dogwood respond nicely to coppicing. However, coral bark Japanese maple is grafted, so is likely to lose its scion if cut too low down.

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Bare Root Stock

Dormancy makes this process possible.

As soon as any unsold Christmas trees move out of nurseries, bare root plants move in. Like Christmas trees, bare root plants are available within a limited season, while they are dormant through winter. They will all be gone by the time they start blooming and producing new foliage at the end of winter.

Bare root plants of course have ‘bare roots’, without typical media (potting soil) contained within cans or pots. Some get their roots wrapped in lightweight coarse sawdust to keep them moist without too much bulk. Others get their roots heeled into moist sand in nurseries, so that they can simply be dug when purchased.

Because bare root plants need much less space than canned (potted) plants, many more different kinds of deciduous fruit trees, roses, grapes, berries and even a few ornamentals are available. Bare root plants also cost about half as much as typical canned plants.

Since no nursery can stock all of what is available, more varieties are available from mail order catalogues and online. Most of what is available in local nurseries is selected for local climates. Plants purchased from catalogues or online need to be selected accordingly.

A main advantage of bare root plants is that they get established in the garden more efficiently than typical canned (potted) plants do. They get dug, transported and replanted into the garden all while dormant. By the time they wake up in spring, they are already in their new home, where they immediately adapt and start to disperse their roots into relatively uniform soil. Canned plants have confined roots that must disperse into unfamiliar garden soil

Bare root plants should get into the garden as soon as possible. If they do not get planted immediately, plants that were pulled from sand in nurseries should get heeled into damp soil or mulch, and watered to settle the fill. Alternatively, they can wait with their roots in buckets of water for a day to two. Bare root plants that are wrapped in bags of sawdust should be safe for more than a week in the shade outside.

Planting holes should be just large enough to accommodate the roots. If too deep, the loosened soil below is likely to settle and sink. Soil can be mounded into a small cone (known as a ‘volcano’) in the middle of each hole to spread roots over. Graft unions (seen as kinks low on trunks of fruit trees or where rose plants branch) of grafted plants should stand above the surface of the soil. Backfill soil should only be amended lightly, if at all.

Even though dormant plants get more moisture than they need from rain through winter, freshly planted bare root plants should get soaked twice immediately after planting to settle the soil around their roots. Lastly, damaged or superfluous stems can be pruned off. Most bare root fruit trees have much more stems than they should for padding in transportation and to allow more options for pruning.

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Winter Pruning Deciduous Fruit Trees

Specialized dormant pruning improves fruit production.

Bare root season is synchronous with winter for one simple reason. Winter is when bare root stock is dormant. Dormancy similarly justifies winter pruning of deciduous fruit trees. It functions like anesthesia for surgery. While dormant, deciduous fruit trees are unaware of relocation or pruning. They resume growth for spring as if nothing stressful happened.

Winter pruning, or dormant pruning, would be inappropriate at any time other than winter. It is both very specialized for particular deciduous fruit trees, and, for most, very extreme. Some trees that benefit from it could not survive such procedures while vascularly active. Such pruning would involve the removal of most or all foliage if it were not already gone.

Winter pruning is no more unnatural than major breeding that necessitated it. Because of breeding, fruit trees produce unnaturally heavy and abundant fruit. Many can not support the weight of the fruit that they could potentially generate. Major pruning limits production and improves structural integrity of stems. It also confines production to reachable stems.

Production of unnaturally big and abundant fruit consumes substantial resources. Winter pruning concentrates resources into less excessive fruit of better quality. Since fruit is not as congested as it would otherwise be, it is more resilient to pathogens. So are its stems, foliage and precursory bloom. Fruit is easier to harvest from less congested stem growth.

Stone fruit trees and pomme fruit trees are the most common that require winter pruning. Stone fruit include cherry, apricot, plum, prune, peach, nectarine and almond. They need distinct degrees of similar pruning. Large fruit like peach necessitate aggressive pruning. Cherry and almond do not require as much. Pomme fruit include apple, pear and quince.

Deciduous fruit trees are certainly not low maintenance. Their reliance on winter pruning is undeniable. Those who would like to grow such trees should be aware of their cultural requirements. Diligent research of pruning techniques is very helpful. Annual experience is even better. It is an opportunity to observe how trees respond to all earlier procedures.