Posted on by tonytomeo

Real Drought Tolerance

Even native manzanitas, which really are drought tolerant, need water until they disperse their roots.

Nearly every landscaper and gardener brags about using plants that do not need much water. Buzz words like ‘drought tolerant’, ‘native’, ‘sustainable’ and ‘xeriscape’ have become all too common, even though few actually spell ‘xeriscape’ properly. (It is NOT ‘zeroscape’!) Unfortunately though, most gardeners water so frequently and generously that drought tolerant and native plants are less sustainable than plants that want more water.

The difficulty is that drought tolerant plants generally need rather regular watering immediately after planting, while they are still dispersing their roots, but then want to dry out between watering once they are established. Otherwise, they are very susceptible to rot if the soil is constantly moist. Most drought tolerant plants should therefore not be mixed with plants or lawns that want regular watering.

Trees like incense cedar, beefwood, carob, silk oak, olive, California pepper tree and some eucalyptus, pine and oak can be nice shade trees in lawns that are not watered too much, but do not live as long as they would with less water. (Although many are messy in lawns anyway; and carob smells bad when it blooms.) California laurel, African sumac, Australian willow, strawberry tree and most acacia and cypress are less tolerant of lawn irrigation.

Eucalyptus, pine, oak and acacia have sensitive roots, so do better if planted while young instead of as larger specimens. For example, #5 (5 gallon) red ironbark eucalyptus get established faster and grow larger than 24” boxed red ironbark eucalyptus installed at the same time.

Bottlebrush, oleander, cotoneaster, hop bush, firethorn, grevillea, some types of wild lilac and all sorts of juniper can be happy with or without regular watering. Manzanita, coyote brush, rockrose, flannel bush and western redbud really want to dry out between watering. Like many plants from arid climates, wild lilac, coyote brush, rockrose, flannel bush and western redbud are naturally relatively short lived. Western redbud fortunately has an efficient technique of producing an abundance of seed and replacing itself with new seedlings before if finishes.

Lily-of-the-Nile is one of the most useful perennials, and can survive with annual rainfall or nearly saturated conditions. New Zealand flax is nearly as adaptable, but is more susceptible to rot if watered too much. Rosemary and several iceplants are nice ground covers with or without regular watering.

The various yuccas, aloes, agaves and their other relatives are some of the most practical perennials for arid climates, and many tolerate somewhat generous watering if necessary. However, most agaves and yuccas have nasty sharp leaves; and some agaves get too big to keep at a safe distance. Also, their bold personalities are not adaptable to every garden style.

Posted on by tonytomeo

Aromatic Foliage Has Ulterior Motives

Several Salvia species are splendidly aromatic.

Floral fragrance attracts insect pollinators. Foliar aroma repels insect pathogens. It might repel other herbivores also. For organisms that lack olfactory perception, plants certainly make productive use of it. Fragrant flowers are as attractive in home gardens as they are to pollinators in the wild. However, aromatic foliage has the opposite of intended effects.

In other words, aromatic foliage is popular within home gardens because of its aroma. Its effort to be repulsive to some insects and herbivores makes it attractive to people. Some aromatic foliage has culinary or herbal application. Actually, almost all herbs are notably aromatic, with corresponding flavors. Mint, chive, thyme and sage are popular examples.

Window boxes became popular in ancient European towns because of aromatic foliage. Where garden space was scarce, they were convenient planter boxes for growing herbs. Also, prior to window screens, they sustained aromatic foliage that repelled mosquitoes. Trailing rosemary, ivy geranium and nasturtium are still very traditional accompaniments.

Rosemary has both culinary and aesthetic application. Culinary cultivars exhibit the best flavor. Landscape cultivars are either trailing or more densely shrubby. Some cultivars of fennel are similarly better for either culinary or landscape application. Bronze fennel has become popular for both. Varied lavenders are more popular as home garden shrubbery.

Native bay is very aromatic when its foliage is disturbed, but is not culinary bay. It is a big and obtrusive tree that is proportionate only to large landscapes. Culinary bay is another smaller species that is more proportionate to home gardens. Also, it has a distinct aroma. Incense cedar is another very aromatic native tree, but is quite rare within home gardens.

Most aromatic foliage can not exude its aroma like fragrant flowers exude their fragrance. Most does so only when disturbed. Some, such as that of many conifers and eucalypti, is beyond reach. It is therefore easy to dismiss within some landscapes. Lavender, lantana, diosma, rockrose and salvia stay within reach. Warmth and humidity amplify their aroma.

Posted on by tonytomeo

Why Hire An Arborist?

Arborists work with the big trees.

Like the many different kinds of physicians who work in a hospital, there are many different kinds of horticultural professionals who specialize in particular disciplines. Although too commonly considered to be ‘landscapers’, and even though many do not work directly with landscapes, there are nurserymen, gardeners, landscape architects, horticulturists and arborists, to name a few.

Arborists specialize in the horticulture of trees. Only a few decades ago, arborists were known as tree surgeons, since they perform surgery on trees. Of all the horticultural physicians that attend to concerns in the landscape, arborists and their associated technicians are the most qualified to properly maintain trees.

Expecting a gardener to maintain large mature trees is like expecting a pediatrician to perform major surgery. Even the most proficient and educated gardeners are too specialized with maintaining other plant material in the garden to also be specialized with arboriculture, or the horticulture of trees.

Arborists who are certified by the International Society of Arboriculture, or ISA, have successfully passed and examination of their arboricultural aptitude. Certification must be maintained by attendance to educational seminars, workshops and other relevant events approved by the ISA.

The website of the International Society of Arboriculture, or ISA, at www.isaarbor.com, is the best resource for finding certified arborists and the tree service establishments that they are affiliated with. Arborists can be found within particular regions by city or ZIP code, or identified directly by name or certification number.

The ‘Public Outreach’ category at the ISA website features links to www.TreesAreGood.org, and ‘Why hire an arborist?’, as well as a few other links for consumers. After all, the website exists not only for professionals, but also to help consumers find professionals and to make responsible decisions about their trees, from the time they get planted, throughout their lifetime, and until they get old and eventually need to be removed.

The www.TreesAreGood.org link has all sorts of information about trees and their maintenance. There are many and various articles about the benefits of trees, the value of trees, tree selection, planting new trees, proper pruning techniques, insects and diseases, tree hazards, why topping hurts trees, and even an article about palms. Incidentally, the Fun Facts link mentions that the tallest tree is the coastal redwood, the biggest tree is the giant redwood, and oldest tree is the bristlecone pine, all of which are native to California.

Trees are of course the most substantial components of a landscape. Some will be around for years. Some will be around for more than a century!

Posted on by tonytomeo

Hedging Produces Foliar Green Fences

Proper hedging technique is not complicated.

Motorized hedge shears are the most overused home garden power tools. They are very useful for hedging evergreen shrubbery into hedges and privacy screens. However, they too often shear vegetation that requires different types of pruning. They are fast and easy but not appropriate for all pruning applications. Even hedging is a specialized technique.

Unfortunately, the rules of hedging are too often ignored. Hedges are utilitarian features. Many provide privacy. Many obscure unwanted scenery. Some divide large gardens into smaller and cozier spaces. Most continue to function as they should even without proper maintenance. Consequently, problems associated with maintenance may not be evident.

Unshorn informal hedges are mostly simpler to maintain, but only if they remain unshorn. Ideally, they use species or varieties that mature to a desirable size and form. Therefore, they should not become too large or Obtrusive. Only a few wayward stems need pruning. Of course, species or varieties that grow too large for such application will need hedging.

Shorn or formal hedges are more likely to develop problems. They need regular hedging to maintain their size and strict form. Yet, even with the most diligent maintenance, many become overgrown. Many gain depth from front to back, to become obtrusive. Many gain more height than they should. Most become distended up high while subdued down low.

This happens because pruning cuts can be slightly farther out than they were previously. They are a bit farther out higher up because that is where most growth is. Hedging within former cuts can renovate overgrowth, but damages hedge facades. Fortunately, damage should be temporary. Severely overgrown hedges might require severe pruning, though.

As mentioned, hedges are utilitarian. They should perform their primary purpose without encroachment into usable spaces. Their typically evergreen foliage is generally external. Their interiors are generally bare stems and empty space. Therefore, a hedge can be as effective whether two or four feet from front to back. Four feet is merely a waste of space.

Posted on by tonytomeo

Spring in Guadalupe Gardens

Spring is in the air.

(This article is recycled from many years ago, so contains outdated information.)

Spring in Guadalupe Gardens on April 23 is the big local gardening event of the Santa Clara Valley! Not only will it be within Guadalupe Park, surrounded by the various Guadalupe Gardens, but Spring in Guadalupe Gardens gathers together an impressive variety of local gardening clubs and vendors. There will be workshops, lectures, trail walks and garden tours, as well as fun activities for children, music and entertainment.

The Heritage Rose Garden, which is the most extensive public collection in the United States of America, designed for the preservation of the ancestors of modern roses, will be in full bloom. The Historic Orchard is a tree museum of the many fruit and nut trees that inhabited the vast orchards that once filled the Santa Clara Valley; many of which can be productive in modern suburban gardens.

Representatives of many local gardening clubs will be at Spring in Guadalupe Gardens, with information about their respective expertise, as well as membership. The John E. Stowell Dahlia Society, the American Fuchsia Society and the Master Gardeners of Santa Clara County will all be there, to name a few. I will be at the Gardening Advice Booth throughout the event, to discuss any gardening issues and questions.

When I can get away from the Gardening Advice Booth, I like to see what I can purchase from the many vendors. There will be more than forty. Most of my fuchsias, and some of my aloes and cacti were obtained at Spring in Guadalupe Gardens. It is common to find many uncommon tomato plants and roses.  There will also be garden art and paraphernalia. The Master Composters of Santa Clara County will be giving away free compost. One never knows what to expect at Spring in Guadalupe Gardens.

Earth Care Recycling will again host a free electronic waste drop off at the Visitor and Education Center, to collect all sorts of computer components, televisions, stereos, fax machines and telephones. Proceeds benefit the Guadalupe River Park Conservancy.

Spring in Guadalupe Gardens will be from 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. this April 23, just north of the Guadalupe Gardens Visitor and Education Center, which is located at 438 Coleman Avenue in San Jose.  Admission and parking are free. Just follow the signs from Coleman Avenue or East Taylor Street. More information about Spring in Guadalupe Gardens can be found at www.grpg.org or by telephoning 298 7657.

Posted on by tonytomeo · 2 Comments

Native Species Are Natural Choices

California lilac grows wild throughout California.

Wildflowers are only part of the story. They are happy enough with the chaparral climate here to bloom for spring or summer. A few are naturalized exotic species, though. In other words, they are not native to California. They merely behave like they are, likely because they are from similar climates. Native species are happy here because they are at home.

More than the most abundant wildflowers are native. Many trees, vines, shrubs, annuals and perennials are also. They were here long before Spanish explorers imported the first exotic plants after 1542. They were as satisfied with local soils and climates then as they are now. This is why many are more suitable for home gardens than many exotic plants.

Native plants are less popular than exotic plants only because a few are a bit too natural. Since they are from chaparral climates, some may get a bit scraggly and dry by summer. They survive arid weather by being partially dormant through some of it. Most appreciate irrigation through summer. However, some are susceptible to rot with generous irrigation.

Conversely, there are several advantages to native plant species. They naturally require less irrigation than most exotic species. Once established, some expect none at all. Only species from other chaparral or desert climates might be less demanding. Landscapes of exclusively native species therefore conserve water. Some get all they want from rainfall.

Also, native species are more compatible with natural ecosystems. Any that self sow into nearby wildlands will be where they belong. They do not compete unfairly for pollinators that other native species rely on. Nor do they compete unfairly for possibly limited space and resources. Furthermore, they contribute habitat and sustenance to wild native fauna.

California poppy and sky lupine are probably the most familiar of native annuals. Various salvias and bush lupines may be the most familiar native perennials. California lilac and flannel bush are familiar native shrubs. California sycamore, coastal redwood and coast live oak are familiar native trees. Many native species are practicable for home gardens, and landscaping.

Posted on by tonytomeo · 6 Comments

Slugs & Snails

hor d’oeuvres

The British Invasion by the Beatles may not have been much of a problem to American gardens; but the French Invasion by brown snails is. Since getting imported as escargot, they eat much more than they get eaten, tearing apart flowers and foliage and devouring young seedlings completely. They tend to hide during the day, and emerge after sunset to graze voraciously until dawn.

Snails as well as slugs are most active this time of year, while the garden is still damp from winter rain, but getting warmer with springtime weather. Fresh vegetation that grows and starts to bloom about now is more than abundant enough to sustain them. Slugs and snails may be slow and ‘sluggish’, but have immense appetites.

Unfortunately, lush foliage that is most susceptible to the wrath of snails and slugs is also the most conducive to their proliferation. Overgrown foliage and plants with large leaves provide plenty of cool damp shade for snails and slugs to hide in during the day. Removing big weeds, fallen leaves and any debris eliminates some of the shelter that they crave while the sun is up.

Snails and slugs are neither elusive nor fast. Hunting them should be easier than it actually is. They are of course easiest to catch while they are out at night. Shallow containers, like saucers for potted plants, containing puddles of beer purportedly get snails to stay out drinking until the sun comes up and roasts them, but this technique is probably more work than it is worth. It wastes beer and seems to catch only a few victims at a time. Besides, the beer gets washed away whenever the garden gets watered.

It is easier and just as sneaky to leave boards or cardboard out overnight for snails and slugs to hide under in the morning, and then surprise the deceived snails and slugs during the day by depriving them of their shelter. They are objectionable to handle, but otherwise easy to collect. Your imagination is probably more useful than any recommendations about how to dispose of them once collected.

Copper tape that can be found in nurseries and hardware stores is a barrier to snails and slugs. It can be self adhesive, or stapled to wooden planter boxes. Plants must be contained within a copper barrier to prevent slugs and snails from getting over the barrier on any plant part that extends within their reach.

Bare copper wire can also be effective. Because trees are actively growing this time of year, copper wire wrapped as a barrier around tree trunks should have some slack, such as a flat ‘S’ shaped curve, to accommodate for trunk expansion.

Salt should not be used to control snails and slugs because it can be harmful to plants. Too much would be needed to surround susceptible plants, and like beer, it would get rinsed away when the protected plants get watered. Keeping drainage saucers filled with water as protective moats for potted plants inhibits drainage, and provides a place for mosquitoes to proliferate.

Posted on by tonytomeo · 2 Comments

Perennials Perform Longer Than Annuals

Kaffir lily is a reliable perennial.

Annuals live for only one year. Biennials live for only two. Technically, all other plants are perennials. Horticulturally, this classification is much more specific. Generally, It does not include vegetation that qualifies as something else. Also generally, plants that qualify as perennial are herbaceous rather than woody. Of course, this is not as simple as it seems.

Palm trees that develop substantial trunks, for example, classify as herbaceous trees. So do arboriform yuccas, such as Joshua tree. Palms and yuccas that do not develop trunks can classify merely as perennials though. Different species of one genus could therefore classify very differently. Tree ferns may also qualify as herbaceous trees as they mature.

Many palms and yuccas, as well as agaves, bamboos and banana trees, are perennials. They might not seem as if they should be, since they can grow so large. Spring bulbs are more recognizable as perennials likely because of their small size. Lavenders and some salvia develop more woody stems than banana trees. They are perennials nonetheless.

Perennials are generally self perpetuating. Lavenders and similarly twiggy sorts may not not seem like they are, but they can be. Their lower stems that sprawl over the surface of the soil can grow adventitious roots. These adventitiously rooted stems can grow as new plants to replace the old. Herbaceous perennials are more overt about self perpetuation.

Lily of the Nile, for example, constantly produces new rhizomes to replace the old. It can do so indefinitely. Some may have done so longer than the oldest bristlecone pines have been alive. They do not retain old growth as evidence of their age. This self perpetuation is an advantage in home gardens. It facilitates both sustainability as well as propagation.

Lily of the Nile, Daylily, Kaffir lily and African iris are very simple to propagate by division. Once separated, either after bloom or while dormant, their rhizomes grow as new plants. Many perennials actually perform better after occasional division. It alleviates congestion by providing more space to grow and bloom. Canna and ginger rhizomes grow very fast. Canna may benefit from annual division.

Posted on by tonytomeo

Not All Pruning Happens In Winter

If necessary, Oregon grape can be pruned to the ground now.

Spring has sprung; and winter has wenter . . . or whatever winter does to get out of the way of spring. Plants are more active now than at any other time of year. Deciduous plants that were dormant and bare through winter have already started to bloom and produce new foliage. Evergreen plants are now making new foliage to replace their tired old foliage that lingered through cold, wet and windy winter weather. 

Frost is very unlikely this late. It is safe to sow seeds for all sorts of warm season vegetables and annual flowers, like beans, okra, zucchini, nasturtiums and sunflowers. It is likewise time to plant small plants for certain vegetables and flowers that are too slow to start from seed, like tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, petunias and impatiens.

Winter was the time to prune almost all deciduous plants (which defoliate) and many evergreen plants while they were dormant. However, pruning of plants that are susceptible to frost damage needed to be delayed until about now, even if they had been damaged earlier. Premature pruning would have stimulated new growth, which would have been even more sensitive to subsequent frost.

Any lavender starflower, bougainvillea, marguerite daisy or blue potato bush foliage that was damaged by earlier frost can now be pruned away. New foliage should already be appearing. Also, any mushy frost damaged leaves of giant-bird-of-Paradise and banana can be removed, and should be replaced by new foliage as the weather gets warmer.

The end of winter and beginning of spring is also the best time for any necessary severe restorative pruning of plants that can be damaged by frost, as well as many heartier evergreen plants. It is late enough to avoid frost, while early enough to take advantage of the first new growth phase of the season.

For example, lavender starflower that is both overgrown and damaged by frost can be pruned back to the main stems now, instead of merely shorn to remove damaged foliage. If pruned earlier, it would have not only been more sensitive to frost, but would have remained unsightly as long as weather remained too cool for it to regenerate new foliage.

It likewise can not be pruned much later without wasting most of the new spring growth that is presently developing, which would be very stressful and delay bloom. Pruning severely now will be unsightly for the least amount of time before new growth regenerates and blooms. It would also be less stressful, since it coincides with natural dormancy and regenerative cycles.

Privets, junipers, oleanders, photinias, bottlebrush and pittosporums that need restoration should also get it now, not because they are sensitive to frost, but so that they recover as efficiently as possible as weather gets warmer. Besides, bottlebrush, pittosporum and some other plants are susceptible to disease if pruned during winter, because pruning wounds are easily infected during rainy weather.

Posted on by tonytomeo

Watering Increases As Rain Decreases

Automated irrigation should help conserve water.

Rain is less abundant and less frequent now that winter has become spring. Humidity is decreasing. Temperatures are increasing. Moisture within both the soil and the air is less abundant than it had been. Irrigation that discontinued as the rainy season began should resume soon. Only supplemental watering compensates for the increasing lack of water.

Warmer and drier weather does more than simply deprive vegetation of natural moisture. It also accelerates new growth of formerly dormant or partially dormant vegetation. Such growth requires more moisture as it becomes less available. Increasing day lengths with intensifying sunlight enhance this need for watering. Although natural, it all seems ironic.

This recent need for watering is progressive. Rain still sometimes interrupts it, but will be less frequent as spring progresses. Rain will be very unlikely after later spring. Humidity will continue to decrease as temperatures continue to increase. Watering frequency and volume must increase accordingly. They might not begin to decrease until after summer.

Soil composition and texture also influence the increasing need for watering. Organically rich soils retain moisture more efficiently than sandy soils, for example. Gravely soils that drain well may necessitate frequent watering, even if less copious. Potted plants require frequent watering because they can not disperse roots. Hanging pots require even more.

Furthermore, different types of vegetation need different or specialized types of watering. Fibrous but shallow roots usually need frequent watering, even if they do not need much. Species with deep roots usually need watering less frequently. Some of them need more significant volumes of water than others. Some vegetation prefers only minimal watering.

With all these many variables, there are no simple formulas to determine watering rates. Manual irrigation is easiest to monitor, but is also tedious. Automated irrigation, although less tedious, requires more diligent monitoring. For any particular type of vegetation, soil should not remain too dry for too long. Also, vegetation should not exhibit any symptoms from desiccation.