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Integrated Pest Management Really Works

Pesticides are effective but innately toxic.

Wildlife is not the only menace to home garden fruits, nuts and flowers. All sorts of insect pathogens want their share also. Old fashioned nonselective insecticides can be helpful, but can leave toxic residue. They also eliminate beneficial insects that might help control pathogens. Integrated pest management, or simply IPM, is likely a more practical option.

Integrated pest management involves biological, cultural and physical pathogen control. Biological control can involve introduction of beneficial insects that consume pathogens. Ladybugs or lacewings are available from certain nurseries, for control of certain insects. However, doing nothing but allowing beneficial insects to proliferate naturally may work.

Some types of integrated pest management are standard procedure for home gardening. Cultural control may be as simple as growing varieties that are resistant to certain pests. This also involves not growing varieties that are susceptible to locally problematic pests. Sanitation is merely removal of detritus that some pathogens proliferate or overwinter in.

Physical or mechanical integrated pest management can be as simple as picking snails. Copper tape as a barrier to exclude snails and slugs is more involved but more effective. Sticky barriers, like ‘Tanglefoot’, prevent ants from cultivating aphid. (Ants cultivate aphid for sustenance.) Then, wasps, which are a biological control, control the aphid naturally.

Integrated pest management also includes various insect traps. Wasp traps use bait, like pheromones or sweet aroma, to attract stinging insects. Although they are not a problem for vegetation, stinging insects complicate gardening. Thrip traps attract thrip with yellow color, and trap them in glue. Apple maggot traps resemble developing apples, with glue.

Chemical pesticides are not beyond the realm of integrated pest management. However, such pesticides should be as nontoxic as possible. Furthermore, they should target only very specific pathogens. Although modern pesticides are safer than old fashioned types, they are still poison. They have significant potential to interfere with natural ecosystems.

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Warming Summer Weather

Dog Days!

My great grandfather could remember more summers in Sunnyvale than anyone else. He knew how unique every summer was and continues to be. Some summers are uncomfortably hot from beginning to end. Last summer though, was the coolest in recorded history!

Warm summers are of course best for the fruits and vegetables that like warmth. Peaches, grapes, tomatoes and rhubarb in my great grandfather’s garden always got the best flavor during warm weather. Warm but not too hot weather early in summer made the best ‘Bing’ cherries on my grandmother’s tree in Santa Clara.

Although cool summers are more comfortable for dogs, cats and people, they are not quite as conducive to growing fruits and vegetables. It is still too early to know what this summer will be like, but even though it is now getting warm, the warmth is developing late. The past spring was remarkably mild, with rain lingering later than it typically does.

Consequently, some fruits and vegetables, as well as some flowers and trees, are developing slowly. Peaches may be a bit smaller than they typically are, with slightly milder flavor. Rhubarb should have good flavor because of recent warm weather, but may develop a bit late because it got a late start.

Tomatoes are perhaps expressing the most dissatisfaction with the mild weather. Even tomato plants that were put out in the garden early in spring have grown slowly, and are not nearly as productive as they typically are by the beginning of summer. Some are not yet producing!

Fortunately and unfortunately, the weather has gotten significantly warmer. This may be uncomfortable for us; but is a party for the formerly bored tomato plants. Warmth of course promotes bloom and fruit production, and enhances flavor. If they get what they need, tomato plants that seemed sickly in the past may suddenly grow like weeds.

They should waste no time making up for lost time. Even if mild weather continues into summer like it did last summer, it will still get warmer than it has been. Maturing tomato plants will want more water and fertilizer (if used) as they get larger, and the weather gets warmer.

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Protecting Fruit From Hungry Wildlife

Cherries are too tempting for birds.

Dormant pruning of deciduous fruit trees last winter should finally be proving its benefits. Such pruning enhances tree vigor and resilience to disease. As importantly, it enhances fruit and nut quality. Birds, squirrels and perhaps other wildlife are unfortunately noticing. Protecting fruit as it ripens may seem to be impossible. Sharing might not be acceptable.

The problem with sharing is that most wildlife is greedy. Wildlife that is not greedy can be too generous by inviting their friends over to indulge. They may not consume everything, but might damage all that they can not consume. Protecting fruit does not deprive wildlife of sustenance that they require for survival. It merely diverts their exploitation elsewhere.

The problem with protecting fruit is that it can seem futile. Even if wildlife could read, they would not comply with signs telling them to keep out. Cats and dogs can not chase them all away, and can not be there to try all the time. Techniques that are somewhat effective for some wildlife are not effective for all wildlife. However, some techniques are effective.

Protecting fruit requires some degree of familiarity with whomever wants to exploit it. Not many deterrents are effective for all of them. Netting is only effective for marauding birds, but not rodents, who can chew through it. Because it is so difficult to install, and worse to remove, other options are better anyway. Flash tape repels some birds rather effectively.

Protecting fruit from squirrels is more challenging. Tree trunk baffles can only be effective if there is no other access to the subject trees. They are useless if squirrels can jump into low limbs from the ground or adjacent trees. Growing rosemary, lavender or mint around fruit trees is supposedly a mild deterrent. However, it obstructs maintenance of the trees.

Plastic snakes or owls might be effective for protecting fruit from both squirrels and birds. Plush toys might be as effective since squirrels and birds do not recognize them as safe. However, such effigies eventually become uselessly familiar without frequent relocation. Squirrels and birds may not seem to be very intelligent, but they are not too stupid either.

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Grasses

There is more to grasses than turf.

The most familiar lawn grasses can not do what the many other grasses and grass like plants do in a garden. Lawns are mown into submission so that they can function like carpet in outdoor rooms. They certainly have their appeal and practicality, although they require very regular maintenance and generous watering.

Other ornamental grasses are grown like more common perennials, to provide appealing foliage, flowers, forms, textures and ‘motion’ as they move in even slight breezes. Most require significantly less water and maintenance than lawns do. Sedges, rushes and papyrus, although not grasses, function like grasses around ponds and in areas that are too damp for grasses to be happy.

Giant reed, pampas grass and bamboo are all notorious as invasive weeds. Giant reed and pampas grass appear and grow voraciously in some of the worst places that their seeds can get into. (Giant reed should not be planted anywhere near waterways or riparian environments.) Bamboo is not nearly as prolific, but spreads aggressively by stolons (subterranean stems) that grow very fast and potentially reach several feet.

However, where they can be contained, these three are the boldest of their kind. Giant reed grows like large types of bamboo, but fluffier, with broader undivided leaves. Pampas grass develops into big mounds of graceful foliage with billowy white or pinkish flower plumes. (Pampas grass leaves can cause nasty paper cuts, though.) The many different types of bamboo provide a variety of graceful foliage; and many provide striking form with their rigid canes. Some bamboo are low and compact. Most are tall and elegant.

Dwarf blue fescue is among the smaller ornamental grasses, forming round tufts of soft but seemingly bristly blue foliage that resembles dense bundles of pine needles. Fountain grass is considerably larger, with green or purplish foliage, and flower plumes that look like kitten tails. Hair grass is so softly textured that it barely supports its own weight, and often lays gently on the ground or leans onto other plants.

Except for giant reed, pampas grass and the various bamboos, most ornamental grasses do not need much attention. Some look better if they get cut back before they start to grow at the end of winter. Others should get their fading flowers removed. A few are deciduous, so die back over the winter. Grasses are otherwise easier to care for than any lawn and many other perennials.

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Fragrant Bloom Appeals To Pollinators

Fragrant bloom needs no bright color.

Aroma and fragrance in a garden have two very different natural purposes. Aroma, which is foliar, repels insects or animals who may otherwise eat such foliage. Fragrance, which is floral, attracts insects and animals to pollinate such flowers. Aromatic foliage ironically appeals to people, particularly as herbs. The appeal of fragrant bloom is not so contrary.

With few exceptions, fragrant bloom is an asset to a garden. Although its primary function is to attract pollinators, people enjoy it also. The few exceptions are flowers that produce fragrances that are unappealing to people. For example, several species of Arum attract flies for pollination. Therefore, they exude foul fragrances that appeal specifically to flies.

Fortunately, most pollinators prefer fragrances that people also enjoy. Many of the richest and strongest fragrances appeal to a broad range of pollinators. Some more refined and distinctive fragrances attract specific pollinators. Fragrant bloom is most fragrant when its preferable pollinators are most active. A few bloom at night for their nocturnal pollinators.

Fragrant bloom is generally not as colorful as bloom that is less fragrant. It does not need to be. Color is merely another visual means with which to attract pollinators. Flowers that are both fragrant and colorful are mostly from competitive ecosystems. Angel’s trumpet is both spectacular in bloom and splendidly fragrant. Yet, its floral color is limited to pastels.

Some of the most fragrant bloom is that of bulbs that bloomed early last spring. Hyacinth, narcissus, freesia, lily and some bearded iris are both fragrant and colorful. Wisteria and pink jasmine are vines that were also fragrant and colorful last spring. Star jasmine is not quite as colorful, but is as fragrant, and still continues to bloom. So does angel’s trumpet.

Warming summer weather will now promote more fragrant bloom, even if it is not colorful. Pittosporum undulatum exudes an almost citrusy fragrance. Pittosporum tobira is slightly buttery. Sweet osmanthus and sweet box are proportionately more fragrant while young. Night blooming jasmine might be the sweetest of all, but more so during warm evenings.

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Compositae (Asteraceae)

Feverfew is a member of the Compositae Family.

Kansas may not have the most unusual state flower, but it has the most, in the form of a sunflower. Only black eyed Susan of Maryland, sagebrush of Nevada, and Goldenrod of Kentucky and Nebraska have similar composite flowers, which are actually composed of many minute flowers known as ‘florets’. Yet, none are as large, and therefore not as abundant as the sunflower of Kansas.

Bluebonnet, yucca, lilac and red clover, the state flowers of Texas, New Mexico, New Hampshire and Vermont respectively all bloom with flower trusses that support many individual flowers. Composite flowers of the family Compositae are somewhat more efficient, with their individual florets so tightly arranged that they seem to be individual flowers. Sagebrush and goldenrod actually take this technique a step further, by producing trusses that support many composite flowers; an abundance of abundance!

Composite flowers are so efficient that they actually assign specific tasks to their various members. The outer florets around the margins of larger composite flowers are the ‘ray’ florets that function as petals. They are big, flashy and colorful, to attract bees and other pollinators, but are typically sterile, so can not produce seeds.

The smaller central ‘disc’ florets actually do the work of getting pollinated and producing seed. Because of the efficiency of the ray florets, they do not need to attract attention. They are low and dense, ideal landing pads for bees delivering and collecting pollen. They literally get pollinated as they get trampled.

The showiest composite flowers have disproportionately large ray florets, like chrysanthemums, dahlias, daisies, cosmos, black eyed Susans and  echinacea. Some of the bulkiest and boldest chrysanthemums actually lack disc florets, and produce only colorful but sterile ray florets. The smaller and more colorful sunflowers have more prominent ray florets than the humungous and mostly yellow sunflowers that have more prominent and abundant disc florets.

Other composite flowers impress their pollinators in a more subdued style, by instead producing more appealing disc florets. Lavender cotton and some marigolds actually lack ray florets. Most composite flowers that use this technique are yellow or orange, and quite compact.

There are not many composite flowers that lack aromatic foliage. Daisies and chrysanthemums are actually objectionable to some. It is a wonder than there are insects that eat them! Feverfew and chamomile are instead appreciated for their aroma and flavor.

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Soil Saturation Can Drown Roots

Only riparian species tolerate sustained saturation.

Irrigation must adapt to weather. It was unnecessary for exposed vegetation during rainy winter weather. It became necessary through drier spring weather. Now, it must adjust for increasingly warm and dry summer weather. This is not as simple as application of more water more frequently. Excessive irrigation causes soil saturation, which damages roots.

Soil saturation is unfortunately common within landscapes that gardeners maintain. The risk of desiccation is more of a concern to gardeners than wasteful irrigation. Desiccation is certainly more apparent than symptoms of saturation. Besides, gardeners assume the costs of neither water nor damaged vegetation. Chronic damage can become significant.

Soil saturation is less common within gardens that lack gardeners, but is not impossible. Soil within pots can become saturated if vigorous roots clog drainage holes. Water which lingers too long in saucers under pots maintains saturation. Irrigation that is too frequent, too generous or both maintains saturation. Of course, different soil types drain differently.

Soil saturation deprives roots of the aeration that they need to survive. A few species are somewhat tolerant of saturation, but fewer tolerate it for long. With few exceptions, newer roots avoid saturation, so disperse shallowly. For trees, this limits stability and increases their likelihood of displacing pavement. Even shrubbery might develop buttressing roots.

Roots that dispersed prior to saturation are vulnerable to rot as soil saturation increases. This not only destabilizes trees, but also compromises their health. Formerly healthy turf grass and ground cover become chlorotic. Some turf grass becomes infested with fungal pathogens, and perhaps moss. Flowers and fruits might shrivel before they develop fully.

It is impossible to prescribe ideal irrigation schedules and application rates for every site. Climate, soil type, slope, exposure and vegetation types are all considerations. Moisture requirements change seasonally and as vegetation matures. Only direct observation can help determine appropriate irrigation frequencies and rates. It is a very involved process.

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Boinkification

Dwarf Alberta spruce needs to know its place.

Many dwarf plants are very practical. The many different dwarf cultivars (cultivated varieties) of false cypress that are grown for their interesting forms, textures and foliar colors are much more proportionate to home gardens than similar specie in the wild, which are big enough to get harvested for timber. Oranges are easier to reach on dwarf trees than on standard trees, which get as big as shade trees.

However, not all plants should be bred to be dwarfs. Dwarf Southern magnolias certainly have their appeal for tight spots, but do not make as much shade as larger trees do. Compact cultivars of crape myrtles (although not actually dwarfs) take too much time to grow above truck traffic to be practical as street trees.

Many classic annuals and perennials are likewise bred to be too compact to be as practical as they were in the past. Annie of Annie’s Annuals in Richmond refers to this all too common practice as ‘boinkification’. It makes many blooming plants more marketable and resilient to shipping and installation, but deprives them of their natural form and elegance.

Short annuals and perennials certainly have their place. Lobelia, sweet alyssum, dwarf marigolds and petunias are fine along walkways and in pots with other larger plants. They also work well as bedding plants for a profusion of color. Yet, there is all too often too much of a good thing. Some flower beds are simply so big and plain, that it would be just as colorful to paint an area orange instead of planting so many marigolds.

Taller flowering annuals like nicotiana (flowering tobacco), cosmos and zinnias add depth behind lower growing annuals. Dahlias are perennials that can accomplish the same thing. Some of the older and less common varieties of familiar bedding plants that have not been so boinkified also work well. There are even petunias that can get two feet tall and wide! These taller plants also provide cut flowers; which is something that boinky plants are not so good at.

Boinkification also compromises fragrance and aroma. Bedding dianthus have almost no fragrance at all; unlike the old fashioned dianthus and carnations that had such distinctive spicy fragrance. Modern zonal geraniums are more colorful than classic varieties, but their foliage is not quite as aromatic.

Not only does increased foliar density of boinky plants promote the proliferation of many diseases and pests; but the genetic violations necessary for boinkification interfere with resistance to diseases and pests!

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Propagation Produces More Garden Plants

Many species propagate reliably by seed.

Seed is the most familiar option for producing new garden plants. Division of perennials, especially overgrown colonies, is another familiar technique. More substantial plants are easier to grow from cutting or layering. Propagation is any process of producing plants. It is how nurseries generate such plants. Some techniques are practical for home gardens.

Propagation by seed is the most practical for most annuals. It is also practical for several perennials and woodier plants. However, not all seed is true to type. Some may become progeny that is different from its parents. After a few generations, ‘Jewel Mix’ nasturtiums revert to orange and yellow bloom. Progeny of most variegated plants lacks variegation.

Propagation by division is more practical for many perennials that form distinct colonies. This includes crowded bulbs. It entails separation of portions of such colonies, or merely single rhizomes. Such portions need only enough root to grow as new plants. Progeny of division are genetically identical to their single parent plant. They therefore do not revert.

Propagation by cutting is the most common technique of propagation among nurseries. It involves cutting pieces of stems and compelling them to grow roots in rooting media. For small scale home garden applications, some of such stem pieces can root in water. Such pieces, or cuttings, are genetically identical to their original parents. They can not revert.

Layering is rather similar to propagation by cutting. Stem pieces remain attached to their original parents during the process though. Burying a portion of stem with its tip exposed stimulates root growth where it is buried. Such stems eventually develop enough roots to sustain themselves after separation. Layering is practical for producing just a few copies.

Propagation is certainly more involved than these brief descriptions imply. It may involve other techniques. Grafting involves assembly of two or more distinct cultivars onto single plants. Rootstock grows from seed, division, cutting or layer. Scions are buds or stems of other cultivars. They graft onto the rootstocks to become the upper portions of the plants.

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Soil Saturation Kills

Use irrigation responsibly.

London plane tree is trendy not because it is all that excellent, but because it is so reliable. It is actually a rather trashy and messy tree that is susceptible to anthracnose and powdery mildew. Landscapers and gardeners like it so much only because the various maples, oaks and other better trees are more sensitive to soil saturation while they get established.

The truth is that most landscapers and gardeners do not want to put any effort into proper watering. While many of us let our lawns die to conserve a bit of water, they waste enough water on lawns and landscapes to sustain rice paddies! This keeps lawns and landscapes superficially green, but eventually causes problems.

Powdery mildew, anthracnose, molds, blights, rots and all sorts of diseases proliferate in damp conditions. Of course, gardeners are happy to apply fungicides and other chemicals to help control diseases; for a price. Also for a price, they are there to replace plants that succumb to any of the many diseases associated with excessive moisture.

Like London plane, several other trees and plants can survive excessive moisture, but only by adapting. If lower soil is regularly saturated, roots are confined to upper soil. This is not a problem for lily-of-the-Nile and many other perennials that can sneak their roots unnoticed into to the upper few inches of soil. However, trees can not get away with this habit for long; since their shallow and buttressing roots eventually expand to displace pavement, other plants and anything else that gets in their way.

Mature and old trees do not adapt. Their deep roots are already set in their ways, so will only rot if they get significantly more water than they are accustomed to. Oaks are particularly susceptible.

Unfortunately, there is no exact formula for determining how much water lawns and gardens should get. There are simply too many variables, such as soil type, drainage, exposure, weather and demand for moisture. Lawns need frequent watering without much volume. Trees prefer more generous watering, but less frequently.

Lawns and trees and everything else in between all need air within the root zone. Watering should therefore not keep soil constantly saturated, but instead allow for adequate drainage and aeration of the soil between watering, without complete desiccation. New plants will of course need more attention until they disperse their roots, but will be happier and healthier with proper watering.