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Six on Saturday: Bud to Bloom

As mentioned last week, I got pictures of the roses that were in bud at the time, in bloom now. It will be autumn on Monday, though, and cool season annuals are replacing warm season annuals.

1. Unidentified Salvia was added to one of the landscapes by someone who was here for the summer, just prior to his departure. Now, I have no idea what it is. I could ask, but I feel that I should recognize it, or at least be able to identify it. I like its pure white bloom.

2. Viola is now in season, whether or not it seems as if it should be. We must rely on the date as much as the weather. While the weather suggests that it is still summer, the date insists that Monday will be autumn. These viola will be safe with several days of warmth.

3. Lobularia maritima, alyssum makes the transition from warm season annuals to cool season annuals difficult. It is still too pretty to remove. Technically, it could perform as a short term perennial until individual plants get too old. By that time, it can reseed itself.

4. Rosa spp. of an unidentified cultivar produced a few notably plump rose hips like this to remind me that I have been negligent with deadheading. Now that subsequent bloom is unlikely, I could leave them to ripen. However, the new roses are continuing to bloom.

5. Rosa ‘Sheer Magic’ rose is one of the new roses that surprisingly bloomed after brutal and unseasonable relocation. This is the same flower that I posted a picture of while still in bud last week. A few more floral buds continue to develop but will lack time to bloom.

6. Rosa spp. of an unidentified cultivar is another of the new roses. This is also the same flower that I posted a picture of while still in bud last week. I have reason to believe that this rose is ‘Chrysler Imperial’, which should be red, but very often blooms reddish pink.

This is the link for Six on Saturday, for anyone else who would like to participate: https://thepropagatorblog.wordpress.com/2017/09/18/six-on-saturday-a-participant-guide/

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Redgum Eucalyptus

Redgum eucalyptus is famously adaptable and resilient.

Although not quite as aggressive, sloppy, big or structurally deficient as the notorious blue-gum eucalyptus, the red-gum eucalyptus, Eucalyptus camadulensis, is one of the ‘other’ eucalyptus that give eucalyptus a bad reputation. It is realistically too big and messy for refined urban gardens, and can be combustible if overgrown or too abundant. It is consequently probably not available in nurseries, despite being one of the most common species of eucalyptus (second only to blue-gum) in California. Red-gum eucalyptus has the advantage of being one of the most resilient large scale trees for unrefined or semi-wild landscapes, and works well where it has space to grow in many of the local county parks.

Posted on by tonytomeo · 2 Comments

Mild Summer

Weather has been somewhat atypical.

(This article is recycled from a few years ago.)

Now that it is half way through September, it is impossible to ignore that tomatoes did not have a good season. Most of us who grow tomatoes were embarrassed by their performance until we realized that everyone else who grows them was also experiencing similar disappointing results. It was not because we did not water them properly. Nor was it because they lacked particular nutrients. They simply wanted warmer weather.

Plants that were put out early before the warm weather last spring did much better at first, but then decelerated as the weather became milder instead of warmer. Cool nights certainly did not help. Mildew, which typically slows a bit as weather becomes drier (less humid) though summer, instead continued to proliferate so that new foliage became infected almost as soon as it developed.

Earlier predictions that the weather would eventually get warm were not accurate enough for many of us who are only now getting enough tomatoes for fresh use, but not an abundance for canning, drying or freezing. There is still some time for most of the tomatoes that are on the vines now to ripen; but many will probably remain green by autumn. Some but not all of the last green tomatoes can ripen off the vine. Perhaps the only good news about all this is that there should be plenty of green tomatoes for pickling.

Sadly, tomatoes were not the only warm season vegetables to be dissatisfied with the weather. Green bean vines and bushes were generally healthy and made good beans, but did not produce very abundantly. Corn was likewise of adequate quality, but on smaller ears and less abundant. Even zucchini, which typically produces too much, was a bit subdued. Marginal vegetables that really prefer warmth, like eggplant and bell pepper, were downright disappointing.

Even if the weather gets warmer in the last days of summer, languishing tomato plants can not ketchup on production. They can be left to make a few more tomatoes, but will eventually need to get out of the way of cool season vegetables. Cabbage, kale, turnip greens, beets, radishes and all the slower growing vegetables that take their time through autumn, winter and early spring will want their space back soon. They will hopefully have a better season.

If possible, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower and some of the larger cool season vegetable plants can be plugged in amongst the finishing warm season vegetable plants. Then, by the time the finishing warm season vegetable plants need to be removed, the next phase of cool season vegetable plants is already somewhat rooted and has a head start. This process works well in small spaces with good quality soil.

The main problem with this procedure is that it prevents potentially depleted soil from getting amended and well mixed between planting. It can also be a bit awkward to get the spacing of rows, furrows or mounds of the next phase of vegetable plants to match up with the previous phase. Smaller vegetable plants that get sown directly from seed into rows, like turnip greens, carrots, beets and radishes, really prefer customized bed preparation, after the warm season vegetables have been removed.

Posted on by tonytomeo · 2 Comments

New View

It may not look like much, but it gets annoying, especially at night.

The industrial shop buildings at work are not exactly visually appealing. Fortunately, they are partially obscured from the roads outside by wild forest trees within the adjacent Zayante Creek and a roadside ditch. One road is on the opposite side of Zayante Creek. The other is on the opposite side of the roadside ditch that is perpendicular to Zayante Creek. Their intersection with associated traffic signals is therefore right outside. I added five Arizona cypress trees to the forested area of the roadside ditch, and three Monterey cypress to the forested area of Zayante Creek, to obscure the buildings more in the future. Unfortunately, though, some of the trees beyond needed to be removed for renovations of a major water main for Santa Cruz. One was a mature Monterey cypress between one of the shop buildings and the intersection of the two roads outside. Not only did this reveal the view of the backside of the building from the roads and intersection, but it revealed the view of the intersection from the few windows of the building. Now, from where I do much of my writing, I can see this traffic signal monotonously change from green to yellow to red.

Posted on by tonytomeo · 3 Comments

Swiss Chard

Chard is both edible and ornamental.

Among the cool season vegetables that are now seasonable, this one is too cool. Swiss chard, Beta vulgaris subsp. vulgaris var. flavescens is as ornamental as edible. Its richly deep or bronzy green foliage is a splendid backdrop for cool season annuals. The same foliage is edible, either fresh or cooked. Yet, even as a vegetable, it is nicely ornamental.

The wide petioles and leaf veins can be white, yellow, orange, pink or maroon. Although varieties with simple green petioles are more productive, they are less popular. ‘Rhubarb Chard’ and ‘Ruby Chard’ develop deep red petioles and veins. ‘Rainbow Chard’ is a mix of varieties with petioles and veins of various colors. Some have darkly bronzed foliage.

Although a cool season vegetable, Swiss card performs very well for spring and autumn. It only succumbs to summer warmth. In cooler climates, it might succumb to severe frost. Since only external leaves are harvested, it retains its ornamental quality for a long time. Swiss chard like sunny exposure and rich soil. It wants water when winter rain is sparse.

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Cool Season Vegetables Begin Now

Kale is productive until spring warmth.

Warm season vegetables that started late last winter will be finishing their seasons soon. Cool season vegetables, or winter vegetables, should begin to replace them. This might sound familiar as the same scenario for warm and cool season annuals. After all, almost all vegetable plants are either annuals or biennials. Few perform for more than a season.

Just like annual bedding plants, different vegetable plants perform to different schedules. Some warm season vegetables begin to deteriorate as warm weather ends. Others may continue to produce until frost. Some cool season vegetables need an early start. Others can start late and grow through cool winter weather. Gardens need not transition quickly.

Besides, different phases of some types of vegetables begin and finish at different times. Although late phases of corn continue to grow, early phases are already done and gone. Although late phases of beet might begin months from now, early phases can begin now. Warm season vegetables, ideally, relinquish space as cool season vegetables require it.

Cool season vegetables grow slower than warm season vegetables. Also, more of them are true vegetables rather than fruit that contain seed. Many are distended roots, such as beet and carrot. Many are distended foliage, such as cabbage and chard. A few, such as broccoli and cauliflower, are distended floral bloom. Peas are actually fruiting structures.

All root vegetables should grow directly from seed. They are vulnerable to disfigurement if transplanted. Besides, they typically grow in significant quantities that are not practical for transplant. These include beet, carrot, radish, turnip and parsnip. Cucumber and pea, although conducive to transplanting, also perform better from seed. So do lettuce greens.

Heading lettuce, though, is more like cabbage and larger cool season vegetables. Since only a few are necessary, transplanting them as seedlings is practical. Besides, they are conducive to transplanting. Cell pack seedlings for cool season vegetables are available from nurseries now. Seed is always available. It can go directly into a garden or into cells for transplanting later, as summer becomes autumn, then winter.

Posted on by tonytomeo · 2 Comments

Six on Saturday: More Impressive Roses

Again, it makes sense at the end.

1. Rain dampened the landscapes for the first time since last spring. It was not much and did not last for long, but was fun while it lasted. Actually, it was barely more than drizzle and made only a few tiny and grungy puddles. Pavement had not been rinsed in months.

2. Agapanthus orientalis, lily of the Nile confirms the end of summer by finishing bloom and necessitating deadheading. One last bloom looks silly and lonely at the center of this big colony. It may be cheap and common, but lily of the Nile happily blooms for months.

3. Pelargonium X hortorum, zonal geranium has left the building. The Post Office looks better without its shabby planter boxes that were so predictably bashed by parking cars. Some believe that we must replace them with other prominent potted plants. I disagree.

4. Rosa ‘Sheer Magic’ rose was actually labeled as such. I misidentified another rose that was blooming last week as such because I thought that it looked about right. I found the label afterward. This is the only one of four recycled roses that retained its original label.

5. Rosa, rose is one of the other three recycled roses that did not retain its original label. It looks as if it is about to bloom red. Perhaps I will get a picture of it for next week. Any color would be nice from roses that were not expected to survive an untimely relocation.

6. Rosa ‘Proud Land’ rose is not one of the four relocated roses, but is from my own rose garden. It was too pretty to not show off. I planted it with two others in about the winter of 1984 or 1985. Although I did not choose it, ‘Proud Land’ is likely my favorite red rose.

This is the link for Six on Saturday, for anyone else who would like to participate: https://thepropagatorblog.wordpress.com/2017/09/18/six-on-saturday-a-participant-guide/

Posted on by tonytomeo · 5 Comments

Rosemary

Various cultivars conform to various forms.

Sprawling ground cover forms of rosemary, Rosmarinus officinalis, that get only a foot or so deep are the most familiar. Taller upright types that can get to six feet tall can be quite sculptural. There are several shorter shrubby types in between that can be allowed to grow wild or shorn into tight hedges.

All rosemary is densely foliated with small narrow leaves not much more than an inch long. It is used as an herb because it is so aromatic and flavorful. Tiny flowers bloom in various shades of blue through winter and spring, and sometimes again in autumn. Stems that root where they touch the ground can be dug and moved as new plants.

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Shear Abuse

an . . . extreme example

Rosemary happens to be one of the many plants that is perhaps too versatile to be respected. Low ground cover forms and sculptural upright forms are probably at their best without much attention. Shrubby forms can instead be shorn strictly into neat formal hedges.

The problem is that most rosemary eventually gets shorn and deprived of natural shape and texture, whether it needs it or not. Those that should be upright and sculptural become rounded over like bean bag chairs. Ground cover forms without their naturally soft texture are like flattened hedges. Those that should be shorn are seldom shorn properly for confinement, so become distended and obtrusive.

The many different kinds of juniper are similarly disgraced. Instead of becoming sculptural small trees, Hollywood juniper and Eastern red cedar more commonly get shorn into nondescript shrubs. Shrubby types get shorn so often that their appealing textures are  never appreciated. Only a few of the densely foliated and compact junipers are conducive to formal shearing.

Shearing is certainly practical where formal hedges are desired, and for plants that have sufficiently dense and finely textured foliage. Yet, it is still important to shear such plants properly. Hedges should be slightly narrower at the top and wider at the bottom, so that lower foliage gets good sun exposure. Vertical surfaces are acceptable; but hedges should not be wider on top and narrower on the bottom.

Hedged or shorn plants should not be allowed to sneak out of their confinement to become obtrusive to usable space. For example, hedges along a driveway should not become so deep (from front to back) that they occupy usable space where cars could otherwise park. They function just as well if three feet deep as they would if they were eight feet deep!

Most hedged plants that should not have been hedged can be salvaged with a bit or work. Unfortunately, the process can be quite involved and makes the shorn plants unappealing while they recover. Overgrown privet hedges can simply get cut back to bare limbs (late in winter) and allowed to sprout back. They should be cut back farther than they need to so that new growth has room to expand.

Overgrown photinias are not so tolerant to severe pruning, so need to be cut back selectively to allow sunlight into the interior. The largest and most obtrusive growth can be cut out completely at first, as long as some lower growth remains to sustain recovery and shade interior stems. As new growth emerges from within, more of the overgrown outer growth can get removed until it is replaced.

Alternatively, overgrown photinias, as well as oleanders, osmanthus, large junipers and some pittosporums can be allowed to grow wild on top if their obtrusive lower growth gets pruned away. Such overgrown plants often have appealing trunks within. The only problem is that hedges pruned up into rows of small trees do not obstruct lower views as they may have been intended to do, unless they get pruned up only on one side.

Remember that shearing is not the only option. Properly pruned plant are allowed to grow into some spaces, but not where they will get in the way. Natural growth habits should be exploited instead of oppressed.