Posted on by tonytomeo

Restorative Pruning

There is some good flowering quince in there, . . . somewhere.

Winter is the time to go wild in the garden, while plants are mostly dormant and not aware of what is going on. This is the time to tend to all the aggressive pruning that fruit trees and roses need annually, and to take care of overgrown deciduous plants that may not need to be pruned every year, but need it now. . . or may have needed it last year. . . or even a few years ago.

Regardless, if they are bare now, they are dormant. By the time their buds start to swell in spring, it will be too late, since they will no longer be dormant, and are likely to be damaged by overly aggressive pruning. Evergreen plants that can be sensitive to frost, like avocadoes and citrus, are the only ones that should not be pruned now, since aggressive pruning may stimulate new growth that is even more sensitive to late frost.

Plants that are too overgrown to be salvaged by tame pruning or typical shearing should be evaluated. Would a particular plant be more desirable if it were tamed? Is removal the only alternative to aggressive pruning? It is sometimes worth taking a chance that an obtrusively overgrown but otherwise desirable plant may actually be killed by aggressive renovation if it is about to removed anyway. For example, overgrown oleanders can be cut down instead of removed. Those that survive will grow into fresh new shrubs by the end of summer.

(The last paragraph of this recycled article is omitted here because the information that it provides about a particular horticultural event is very outdated.)

Posted on by tonytomeo · 4 Comments

Duckweed

Lemna minor is the common duckweed that infests the drainage pond. It is SO extremely prolific that I doubt that a huge herd of koi could eat it all. It appeared within the pond about as soon as the pond started to fill with water. It was undoubtedly brought by the first ducks to arrive while the pond was no bigger than a large puddle. It was no surprise, since duckweed inhabits most ponds. However, its profusion exceeds expectations. It can get so dense that it spreads into the area of the fountain. The turbulence of the dispersed water mixes some of the duckweed below the surface, but it does not stay there for long. If it does, its absence makes no noticeable difference to the density of what floats on the surface. It looks like a very tightly mown lawn. It is not so dense now that it has been frosted through winter, but is nonetheless more dense than expected. It typically disappears after the first few minor frosts, but has not done so yet, even after more minor frosts than typical. It lingers like some sort of unnatural pollution on the surface of the pond. YUCK! At this rate, it may not completely disappear before it is time for it to reappear during warming weather of late winter and early spring. It supposedly makes superb compost, but no one has time to scoop it off the surface of the pond. Besides, I doubt that it would not more than replace whatever we scoop, particularly since it already did so when we tried scooping in in the past. It seems like a harmless weed that is confined to the pond, but is so obnoxiously prolific and persistent within a pond that would likely be more visually appealing without it.

Posted on by tonytomeo

‘Eureka’ Lemon

‘Eureka’ and ‘Lisbon’ lemons are indistinguishable.

‘Lisbon’ lemon was the original. It is still a common cultivar for orchard production of fruit for lemon products. Because almost all of its fruit ripens in winter, it can not provide fresh fruit continuously. ‘Eureka’ lemon, which is a mutant of ‘Lisbon’ lemon, may compensate. It is not as productive in season, but only because it also provides lemons out of season.

This complicates orchard harvest, but is justifiable by prolonging the supply of fresh fruit. It is more ideal for home gardens where only a few lemons are needed at a time anyway. Besides, seasonal abundance within home gardens can become too much of a surplus. ‘Eureka’ lemons are not as richly flavorful as ‘Meyer’ lemons, but are more acidically tart.

‘Eureka’ lemon trees, even on dwarfing understock, can eventually grow fifteen feet high. They are generally not quite as wide as they are tall. Their nastily sharp thorns are stout. Vigorous stems develop much longer and potentially dangerous thorns. Foliar fragrance is mild, but can be delightful during warm weather. Glossy evergreen foliage is aromatic when disturbed by lemon collection.

Posted on by tonytomeo · 2 Comments

Citrus Are Summery For Winter

Limes are the most diverse citrus.

Citrus trees are not like deciduous fruit trees. They are not marketable as bare root stock. They do not need winter pruning. Actually, winter pruning might initiate premature growth that is vulnerable to frost. Deciduous fruit trees remain dormant so can only dream about fruiting for next summer. Citrus trees are happily evergreen, and fruiting abundantly now.

Citrus somehow seem to be more summery than fruit that actually ripen for summer. Iced lemonade is so traditional for warm summer weather. Oranges for Christmas might seem to be out of season when they really are not. Although Mandarin oranges are perishable, other ripe citrus last for weeks or months. Several ripen sporadically throughout the year.

‘Valencia’ oranges, which are the traditional juicing oranges, might last through summer. They may sustain the belief that orange juice is a summery beverage. Several grapefruit cultivars can last about as long. ‘Eureka’ lemon is mostly seasonal, but also generates a few fruits throughout the year. ‘Bearss’ lime may be even more productive out of season.

With only one exception, all species and cultivars of citrus are of the same Citrus genus. Kumquats are of the Fortunella genus, but typically qualify as Citrus for simplicity. Citrus fruit is sweet, sour or bitter. Most familiar oranges are sweet. ‘Seville’ is a sour orange for marmalade. ‘Bouquet de Fleur’ is a bitter orange for infusing with Grand Marnier cognac.

Oranges, lemons, limes, grapefruits, kumquats and Mandarins are all very familiar. All of these fruits are available from grocery markets. Their trees grow in many home gardens. Tangerines are simply Mandarins or Mandarin oranges of the Americas. Pomelos, which are larger ancestors of grapefruits, are still uncommon. So are tiny and tart calamondins.

They are not the most unusual, though. Blood oranges provide tangy red juice. ‘Rangpur’ lime is a sour Mandarin orange that is as acidic as a ‘Eureka’ lemon. Tangelos combines the tartness of grapefruits with the sweetness of Mandarin oranges. Sweet limes lack the acidity of typical limes, so are for eating like oranges. These are merely a few examples.

Posted on by tonytomeo · 17 Comments

Six on Saturday: el Catedral de Santa Clara de Los Gatos II

El Catedral de Santa Clara de Los Gatos is merely the Mount Hermon Memorial Chapel, which is a more proportionate name that does not trivialize its Memorial status. I prefer it to seem grander than it is. Also, I maintain a strict standard for its minimal landscape. All of its flowers bloom exclusively white. However, most of its flowers have been rather pekid because of aggressive invasion of consumptive redwood roots into irrigated areas. Because I can not stop the encroachment, I removed the soil from four primary planters. Within the front pair of planters, I suspended customized planter boxes. Within the rear pair of planters, I suspended a few nursery cans that contain new plants. Redwood roots can not reach into these planters or cans. The recycled vegetation still looks shabby, but should perform better than ever for this summer.

1. Chlorophytum comosum, spider plant, with Begonia X semperflorens–cultorum, wax begonia, are icky through winter, but should perform better than ever by spring without aggressive redwood roots. Their planter within their planter is visible at the front corner.

2. Picea glauca var. albertiana ‘Conica’, dwarf Alberta spruce, and Buxus sempervirens, English boxwood, are within #15 cans within their planters. Crocosmia X crocosmiiflora are in 4″ pots. It is trashy, but is for their own protection from aggressive redwood roots.

3. Pelargonium X hortorum, zonal geranium, within a #5 can that is obscured to the far right of the items described above, is merely cuttings from what was here prior. They, as well as several more within the cans of the other items, should grow to obscure the cans.

4. Pelargonium X hortorum, zonal geranium, that was here prior to this renovation was abundant enough to provide many more cuttings that we could utilize. These few should obscure these bare bases of a pair of lemon cypress, Cupressus macrocarpa ‘Goldcrest’.

5. Collectively, it should look sharp for summer. The Crocosmia X crocosmiiflora is just temporary until the zonal geranium grows to replace it. I do not want their bright orange bloom within this exclusively white garden. Everything in this new landscape is recycled.

6. It only looks puny from across the road because the stone wall is so big and ominous. It will be prettier as the zonal geranium and wax begonia begin to bloom for late spring. The cypress may not conform to a white garden, but their color is foliar instead of floral.

This is the link for Six on Saturday, for anyone else who would like to participate: https://thepropagatorblog.wordpress.com/2017/09/18/six-on-saturday-a-participant-guide/

Posted on by tonytomeo

Iceland Poppy

Native California poppies are nothing like this.

Because winters here are so mild, Iceland poppy, Papaver nudicaule, gets planted out in the garden in autumn to bloom through winter and into early spring. Where winters are cold, bloom must wait until after winter, whether plants are put out in autumn or sown from seed as winter ends. Iceland poppy prefers good drainage because it is out in the garden during the coldest and rainiest time of year, but is otherwise not too demanding. Picking the flowers and removal of deteriorating flowers (deadheading) promote continual bloom. 

Circular flowers up to three inches wide in shades of orange, yellow, pink, white and nearly red hover up to a foot high on wiry and hairy stems. Prominent fuzzy stamens are bright yellow at the center of each flower. Some varieties have brighter colors and taller stems. The hairy and deeply lobed leaves form basal rosettes about five inches wide.

Posted on by tonytomeo

Dormant Pruning of Deciduous Fruit Trees

Almond trees require specialized dormant pruning.

There is nothing like the flavor of ripe fruit fresh off the tree during summer; whether cherries and then plums, prunes and apricots early, or peaches and nectarines in the middle, or pears and apples at the end of summer. Even though summer is still a few months away, it is already time to get ready for summer fruits, as well as almonds, by pruning the deciduous fruit trees that produce them while they are still dormant in winter.

Because fruit trees have been bred over the past many centuries to produce unnaturally large and abundant fruit, most are unable to support the weight of their own fruit without some sort of unnatural intervention. Trees consequently need to be pruned so that they do not produce so much fruit that their limbs break, destroying the fruit and disfiguring the trees. Pruning also helps to concentrate resources into fruit of superior quality instead of excessive but inferior fruit.

There are as many different techniques for pruning deciduous fruit trees as there are different types of deciduous fruit trees, and certainly too many to write about in a single gardening article. For example, cherries, plums, prunes, apricots, peaches, nectarines and almonds are all ‘stone fruit’ which need varying degrees of similar pruning. Peach trees produce the heaviest fruit, so require the most aggressive pruning. Cherry trees are pruned in a similar manner, but only minimally because they are not so overburdened with fruit. Only evergreen fruit trees like citrus, avocado, guava, olive and tropical fruits do not get some sort of pruning this time of year.

(Stone fruit have substantial seeds which are known as ‘stones’. Almonds are the stones of the fruit that comprises their hulls.) 

It is best to become familiar with the pruning requirement of each type of fruit tree before planting them, since some are simply too labor intensive for some people, and most are too involved for almost all maintenance gardeners. It is also easiest to start with young trees and become more familiar and comfortable with pruning them as they grow over the years.

(Because this post is from an old article, outdated information was deleted below.)

Apricot, cherry, prune, almond, walnut, apple, pear, plum, fig and various other trees will be there. The 3.3 acre Historic Orchard was developed in 1994 to include more than 220 of the many types of fruit and nut trees that once made the Santa Clara Valley famous as the Valley of Hearts Delight.

Posted on by tonytomeo

Fe

ICK!

Ferrum, which is abbreviated as “Fe”, is the chemical and element name of iron. It is apparently too abundant in this well water. Actually though, it is from the lining of the well. It accumulated because the pump has been inactive for so long. I am impressed that it functions at all after being idle for so long. I am concerned about the lining of the well, though. The hydrologic engineer tells me that I must superchlorinate the well to kill most of the iron oxidizing bacteria, and then flush the well by operating the pump for a long time. That all sounds like quite a bit of risky work. I do not like the concept of pouring something into a well that does not belong there. I am also concerned about what to do with the chlorinated water as it gets pumped out. I suppose that I could apply it to undesirable vegetation around the well. There will undoubtedly be a large volume of such water; but there is also a large amount of undesirable vegetation. I suppose that I could collect some or much of the water into an otherwise unusable tank to let the chlorine slowly volatilize from it. For now, until this superchlorination process begins, I suspect that this water is safe for irrigation. I do not mind if it leaves a temporary rusty residue that eventually rinses away. The water was even muckier before, and will get less mucky as more of it is used, so it could appear to be clean before superchlorination. Besides, I suspect that mucky water is less toxic to vegetation than superchlorinated water is. Because the rain stopped as suddenly as the rainy season began, and no rain is forecast for the next week, irrigation is now becoming a priority.

Posted on by tonytomeo · 2 Comments

Coral Bark Japanese Maple

Defoliation reveals impressively red bare twigs.

Bloom is probably the favorite component of home gardens. Foliage is likely the second favorite component. Japanese maples are popular as much for their form as for any other characteristic. The intricate textures and autumn color of their foliage is likely secondary. Coral bark Japanese maple, Acer palmatum ‘Sango Kaku’, is even a bit more distinctive.

Relative to other cultivars of Japanese maples, its foliage is not remarkable. Actually, it is more vulnerable to foliar scorch with arid warmth. Its form is not overly remarkable either. For coral bark Japanese maple, the bright red bark of its young twigs is its primary allure. It is obscured by foliage for most of the year, to be revealed by defoliation through winter.

Coral bark Japanese maple is an understory tree, so can tolerate partial shade. With full sun exposure, it particularly dislikes arid wind. It can grow as tall as twenty feet, or might stay as short as ten feet. It naturally produces many long and limber stems with shiny red bark. Severe pruning to promote growth of such stems is likely to ruin its sculptural form.