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Weeds Are Prolific And Invasive

Weeds are now growing vigorously everywhere.

Warming spring weather accelerates bloom and growth. Early spring bloom is now much more colorful than the best of winter bloom. Fresh foliage is already replacing defoliated deciduous foliage and faded evergreen foliage. Vegetation will soon be more active than they will be during any other time of year. Such vegetation unfortunately includes weeds.

Weeds are only weeds because they are unwanted. That is their only commonality. Most are exotic, or not native, but a few are native. Most are annuals, but a few are perennials, vines, shrubs or trees. Annuals grow from seed, but several of the others can perpetuate vegetatively. Some are appealing where appropriate, but migrate to where they are not.

Weeds become weeds because they are generally invasive. Many are aggressively so. They grow wherever they can, and compete with any desirable vegetation for resources. The most aggressive annual weeds begin growing before preferable species. They can overwhelm their slower victims. Several have bloomed and are already dispersing seed.

Exotic weeds are here for a variety of reasons. Some arrived inadvertently as seed in fur or digestive systems of livestock. Some were fodder for livestock. Many were originally desirable flowers for home gardens. A few were formerly useful as cover crops or erosion control. Many lack natural pathogens from their native ranges that limit their proliferation.

Regardless of their origins, weeds now necessitate weeding. They grow throughout the year, but most are most active as winter becomes spring. Obviously, they grow like their horticultural designation implies. Those that are not already dispersing seed should not get the opportunity to do so. Less weeding will be necessary later if more happens now.

Besides, weeding is easier while the soil is still evenly damp from winter rain. Roots are more pliable and less dispersed. They toughen and disperse as the season progresses. Rhizomes, stolons and other perennial weed parts are likewise easier to pull or dig now. Tilling might be more efficient for eradication of small but profuse young weed seedlings.

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California Poppy (not a plant profile)

Escholzia californica

California poppy is the Official State Flower of California. It is native to all but Yuba, Sierra and Imperial Counties within California. It is also native to portions of Oregon, Washington, Nevada, Utah, Arizona, New Mexico, Alaska, Sonora and Baja California.

Although rare elsewhere, a few isolated colonies inhabit several other states and Canada. It naturalizes efficiently in many other regions of other continents.

California poppy naturally blooms almost exclusively orange. Modern varieties that bloom yellow, red, lavender and creamy white were developed relatively recently. Naturally white and lavender California poppies are extremely rare in the wild. To Californian children, they are supposedly good luck, like-four leaf clovers are to Irish children. I remember finding a few of each at the Portola Monument in Montara when I was a kid. I did not see either again until I found a white California poppy at work a few years ago. Of course, modern varieties take the fun out of that tradition.

California poppies are now blooming splendidly. Unfortunately, they are neither as common nor as profuse as they were only a few decades ago. They are displaced by naturalized exotic vegetation, including naturalized forage crops and cover crops. Also, exotic vegetation, including flowers within home gardens and orchard trees, distracts the pollinators that they rely on for pollination. We dispersed California poppy seed at work while the weather was still a bit rainy, so should get more blooming later in spring. Hopefully, they will disperse a bit more seed for the following spring, although I suspect that they would already be naturally established there if it were a good situation for them.

California poppies can get somewhat unkempt within refined landscapes, particularly if they stay long enough to disperse their seed. That is why we want more within unrefined areas.

Posted on by tonytomeo · 4 Comments

California Lilac (not a plant profile)

Ceanothus thyrsiflorus

Ceanothus of all sorts are collectively known as California lilac. A few uncommon species are also known by alternate names that might confuse those who are unfamiliar with them. Most species happen to be native to California, although most are not exclusive to California, and a few are not native to California. The species with the most extensive range is native to the eastern half of America, which does not include California. Incidentally, it is known more familiarly as New Jersey tea.

Ceanothus is not actually related to lilac. It merely blooms within the same season, with tiny flowers in floral trusses that are smaller but sort of shaped like those of lilac. The most traditional lilac bloom with lavender floral color, but a few cultivars bloom with pale blue floral color that sort of resembles that of some of the Ceanothus. Most Ceanothus bloom is richer blue, and some is pale white. The most fragrant of Ceanothus bloom is only mildly fragrant, and only in abundance. Most Ceanothus bloom lacks fragrance or smells rather dusty. Lilac, of course, is famously fragrant.

California lilac is therefore neither notably Californian nor a type of lilac. Nonetheless, during spring, we appreciate its bloom, both within refined landscapes and in the wild. It does not last for long, but it can be impressive, particularly among wild specimens that can grow larger than those within confined landscapes. The blue floral color of the majority of wild specimens and perhaps all cultivated specimens is comparable to that of native lupines, and contrasts splendidly with bright orange California poppies that bloom at about the same time. California lilac that grows wild need no maintenance, and although individual specimens do not last long enough to get old, they reliably replace themselves like so many native species do.

Posted on by tonytomeo · 18 Comments

Six on Saturday: Shabby Spring II

Some of these Six are leftovers from last week. Some might have been late last week, and are a week later now. African daisy and calla bloom somewhat randomly, so technically, may not qualify as late. Likewise, candelabra aloe does not bloom quite as randomly, but is not always punctual either. I should be more observant of bloom schedules. Evergreen clematis and bridal wreath spirea are more likely to be blooming late. I am more certain that flowering quince should have bloomed earlier. Only calla and candelabra aloe were grown here. The others were originally acquired from nurseries many years ago, so I can not gloat about growing them. Incidentally, Rhody and I will leave for Washington early Wednesday morning, so my next two ‘Six on Saturday’ posts should be from there.

1. Clematis armandii, evergreen clematis bloomed while I was not looking. This picture is from last week. Bloom lasted a bit longer than expected, but is presently deteriorating.

2. Osteospermum ecklonis, African daisy also bloomed last week, but of course, is rarely without bloom. It blooms a bit more profusely in phases between now and late summer.

3. Aloe arborescens, candelabra aloe typically blooms for late winter. These vivid orange flowers are resilient to wintry weather, and contrast splendidly with blue California lilac.

4. Zantedeschia aethiopica, calla grows wild within a portion of one of the landscapes. It could do the same elsewhere if we were to relocate some of it, which is why we rarely do.

5. Spiraea prunifolia, bridal wreath spirea seems to be blooming late. I do not know for certain because I do not remember when it typically blooms. Foliage develops afterward.

6. Chaenomeles speciosa ‘Double Take Orange’ flowering quince also develops its foliage after bloom. I am more certain that it is blooming late. It typically blooms with forsythia.

This is the link for Six on Saturday, for anyone else who would like to participate: https://thepropagatorblog.wordpress.com/2017/09/18/six-on-saturday-a-participant-guide/

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Tulip

The soft pastel shades of these tulips brighten this somewhat shady landscape.

The mild winters that are so comfortable for us are not so desirable to tulip bulbs, which need to be chilled to perform as perennials. Consequently, they behave as brief season annuals locally. The most popular varieties have simple single flowers in white, yellow, pink, red, purple or pinkish orange. Double tulips are rather ruffled. Parrot tulips are larger and even more ruffled. As the names imply, lily-flowered tulips are shaped like small lilies, with pointy flared petals; and fringed tulips have finely serrate petals. Tulips stand between half a foot to two feet tall. Early types are already finished blooming. Late types, particularly if planted late, may bloom as late as early May.

Posted on by tonytomeo · 8 Comments

Flowering bulbs brighten the garden better than incandescent bulbs.

Daffodil bloom from bulbs that were installed last autumn.

The elegant white callas that are just about to bloom in my garden have their origins in the ‘old country’. I obtained them from the garden of my great grandfather Tomeo in my ancestral homeland; Sunnyvale, near San Jose. I am told that my great grandfather planted them decades ago, and had been trying to get rid of them almost as long. I suppose that means that these callas are easy to grow.

My belladonna lilies that got planted two autumns ago are about as old, since they came from the garden of my mother’s mother in Santa Clara, right near Sunnyvale, and were in her mother’s garden prior to that. These bulbs just keep on growing, blooming and multiplying. Although I do not like their bright pink color much, I can not argue with their reliability.  

Bulbs and bulb like plants that can take care of themselves and thrive with minimal or no attention are always welcome in my garden. Bright orange crocosmia is perhaps just as reliable, or should I say ‘persistent’, as callas are, and like callas, should be planted about now. Yellow, red, and orange with red flowering varieties are also available. Pink, red, orange, yellow and salmon cannas are in season too. They are easier to contain, but are likewise prolific.

Some of my other favorites that get planted about now for summer bloom want more attention, but are certainly worth it. Dahlias can naturalize if conditions are right for them, but will more likely do better if dug, divided and replanted in enriched soil at least every few winters. They are remarkably easy to propagate. Asiatic lilies likewise prefer to be dug and replanted as their soil becomes depleted, but are not likely to regenerate year after year if ignored.             

Honestly though, some of the other summer blooming bulbs and bulb like plants that get planted about now are rather risky. I like to grow gladiolus because they happen to be among my favorite flowers. However, unless they get well amended soil and fertilizer, they do not perform very well, if at all, after their first year. Liatris is not much more reliable. Tuberous begonia is still a mystery to me, since I have not been able to prevent them from rotting in their first year!

Of the many bulbs and bulb like plants that get planted in autumn that are now blooming, grape hyacinth, snowdrop, watsonia, bearded iris, daffodil and narcissus are the most reliable and likely to naturalize, particularly with rich soil and regular watering. Daffodil and narcissus do not spread as well as the others, but are probably the most resilient. With a bit more effort, freesia and crocus can be persistent. In some situations, freesias have actually been known to naturalize as effectively as grape hyacinth.

Other early bloomers (that get planted in autumn) are more demanding. The anemones that I planted in about 1990 survived neglected in my garden for nearly a decade, but probably produced more flowers in their first year than in all subsequent years combined. Ranunculus and hyacinth may do the same if conditions are not just right for them. Tulips are perhaps the most profusely colorful of spring bulbs, but are sadly grown mostly as annuals, since they rarely do much more than produce foliage after their first year.

Posted on by tonytomeo · 19 Comments

Horridculture – Inexhaustible Resources

Wild cucumber is not a particularly substantial vine. Except for its tubers, it is quite delicate.

Wild cucumber, Marah fabacea, is also known as manroot because it develops massive tubers that can weigh as much as a man. Such tubers can supposedly weigh more than two hundred pounds, and some sources claim that they can weigh twice as much. That is a lot of storage.

Their thin leaves, slender vines, tiny flowers and fleshy fruit are not very substantial, and can not be very consumptive. They are quite watery, and leave minimal debris when cut and dried, or when they die back after frost.

So, why does wild cucumber store so much resources within their massive tubers? I have no idea. I realize that it is a survival technique, but this is major overkill. No winter is long enough to justify such extreme storage. No summer is dry enough. No wildlife is voracious enough. No forest fire burns the same place more than once in a season. Furthermore, no gardener is diligent enough.

Seriously, these things are impossible to kill. The vines pull up quite easily, with no resistance. The tuber simply makes more. Secondary vines pull up as easily as the first. The tuber simply makes more. No matter how many times the vines get pulled up, the tuber simply makes more. It never exhausts its resources. Removal of the vines deprives it of its ability to accumulate more resources, or replenish what is used to generate the vines, but it has enough to generate vines for many years.

The only way to eliminate these weeds is to dig up their massive tubers, which are fortunately not very deep underground. Even then, the tubers do not die. This one sat around through last summer, and is still viable. I suppose that we should dispose of it with the trash, since we can not compost it.

This wild cucumber tuber is bigger and much heavier than Rhody, but is smaller than average.
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Lettuce

Lettuce prefers spring and autumn weather.

Warm season vegetables are replacing cool season vegetables about now. Technically, lettuce, Lactuca sativa, is a cool season vegetable. It grows through spring and autumn though. The last of it can continue almost until May. Within the mildest coastal climates, it can continue later. By the time it finishes there, it is almost time to plant more for autumn.

After thousands of years of cultivation and breeding, lettuce is now remarkably diverse. Most popular varieties are leaf, head or romaine types. Leaf lettuce is mostly green, but can be bronze, reddish or irregularly blotched. Most varieties develop loosely ruffly foliar texture. Romaine and head lettuce is denser but larger. Some grow a foot high and wide.

One commonality among lettuce varieties is that they tolerate neither frost nor arid heat. Some are a bit more tolerant of one or the other, which can prolong their season. Some of the larger romaine and head types need nearly four months to mature, though. Only a single phase matures within each season. Smaller types might mature in about a month.

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Rotation Makes Gardens Go Round

Corn is a consumptive summer vegetable.

Vegetables are greedy as they grow. They crave rich soil. They exploit it and abandon it at the end of their season. Nutrient depletion can be a problem for subsequent phases of similar vegetables. In other words, vegetables of any particular family consume the same nutrients. Each phase leaves a bit less for the next. Crop rotation disrupts this process.

Different types of vegetables deplete different types of nutrients. This is an advantage for a vegetable garden. Tomatoes can deplete soil nutrients for subsequent tomatoes. Corn, however, may not notice such depletion. It craves different nutrients, so may be content with what tomatoes did not consume. This is how and why crop rotation is so effective.

Crop rotation is simply a technique of not growing vegetables where similar types grew. Vegetables grow better where different types grew previously. Their formerly depleted but vacated soil can recuperate in their absence. They can return to the same soil after three years or so. Other vegetables that grow there for that time accelerate recuperation.

Warm season vegetables are generally more consumptive than cool season vegetables. That is because so many of them are actually fruits, such as tomatoes, corn and squash. More cool season vegetables are truly vegetative, such as lettuce, cabbage and carrots. Because they produce no bloom, seed or fruit prior to harvest, they need less resources.

Therefore, warm season vegetables are more responsive to crop rotation. Most are not relatives of the cool season vegetables that they are now replacing. Similar vegetables of the previous few summers are more of a concern. Tomatoes, eggplants and chilis are all of the Solanaceae family. They should avoid soil that their relatives used previously.

Similarly, if possible, corn should not grow where it grew within the past few years. Nor should beans. Fertilizer can compensate somewhat for soil depletion where rotation is impractical. For example, a fence may perpetually be the ideal support for pole beans. Spring lettuce, carrots and other vegetative vegetables may be less reliant on rotation. Although most squash benefit from rotation, zucchini seems to be productive regardless.

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Heather

Heather is not related to Calluna vulgaris. She is feline, since she is a kitty, who is employed here as the only mouser within the maintenance shops. We did not hire her as such. She merely assumed the job. At the time, after Darla retired, we were in desperate need of a mouser. We do not know where Heather came from, and she can not tell us. She seems pleased to remain employed here. We are pleased to be without rodents.

Her technique is as mysterious as her origin. No one knows how she prevents rodent infestation. She does not seem to catch any. Instead, she seems to passively repel them, as if rodents vacated and will not return because of here presence. Skunks, opossums and raccoons are also notably absent since her arrival, and the raccoons were vicious.

Heather temporarily lived within the nursery when she first arrived and decided to stay. Shortly afterward, and after being named, she decided that she preferred the automotive shop across the road. If she had settled there originally, she might have gotten a lame name, such as Lexus, Tesla or Mercedes. Now, she is quite established here, and lives in a luxurious penthouse in the automotive shop mezzanine above the locksmith shop. She does not seem to venture away from the safety of the shop buildings or the surrounding fenced yard. She has several friends here, including Rhody.

Fortunately, Heather does not seem to need anything more than she can figure out on her own. I know nothing about providing for a kitty. She does not seem to mind at all. Actually, she seems quite happy here, and purrs when petted. She seems to enjoy looking cute for those whom she meets for the first time, and for pictures such as this.