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Norfolk Island Pine

Norfolk Island pine seems to have been built rather than grown.

            In coastal areas of Southern California, the Norfolk Island pines, Araucaria heterophylla, are among the most distinctive large trees. Perhaps they are better described as ‘unusual’ . . . , or even ‘strange’. They are so symmetrical that they seem to have been assembled from prefabricated kits than to have grown as natural trees. Their strictly organized conical branch structures and remarkably straight central trunks are always visible through their uniformly open canopies. In such mild climates, they can get nearly a hundred feet tall and half as wide, so are not easy to hide. In Hawaii, their symmetry has actually made them popular as Christmas trees. Their finely textured juvenile foliage is comprised of narrow, half inch long pine-needle like leaves, which are wider among adult growth.

            Locally though, Norfolk Island pines are primarily enjoyed as houseplants, particularly since they can grow slowly and live in pots for many years. The climate is just a bit too cool in winter for them to be very happy in the garden. However, as they eventually get too large for their homes, many end up in the garden anyway. They stay much smaller and are not nearly as symmetrical as they are in milder climates, and may be damaged by the more severe frosts every few years, but they have a certain appeal and distinction regardless. Those that get planted in the garden while young seem to be more symmetrical than those that get disfigured by living as houseplants longer. For some reason, trees that develop weak or curved trunks as houseplants tend to continue to grow with interestingly irregular trunks and branch structure.

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Live Christmas Trees

Most live Christmas trees grow too big for home gardens.

One of the problems with driving my favorite vehicles that were old long before I learned to drive them is that I spend considerable time waiting for a bus or walking. The cool thing about that is that I get to seem so much scenery that I would otherwise drive past. While waiting nearly an hour for a bus at the Cavallero Bus Terminal in Scott’s Valley, I went across the street to see the landscape of the somewhat new Post Office, which has actually been there for many years now.

The landscape is a bit sparse in front (I think because of architectural modifications after the landscape was designed), so was outfitted with recycled live Christmas trees. Although none of these particular trees seem happy in the local climate or sandy soil, I had wanted to get better acquainted with them for some time. They are an odd assortment of spruce and fir that are rare here.

The more typical concern with the more common live Christmas trees is not that they are not well suited to local climates and soils, but that they actually do too well and grow much larger than expected. Except for the small rosemary, holly and English ivy ‘trees’, most coniferous evergreen live Christmas trees are young pines that get remarkably large; and some waste no time doing it! The most common live Christmas trees are Italian stone pines, which happen to be the two very large and broad trees in Blaney Plaza in downtown Saratoga!

Canary Island pines, which had been more common than they are now, do not get quite as broad, but do get very tall and messy. Years ago, Aleppo, Eldarica and Monterey pines all took their turns being popular live Christmas trees. Each of them grows large enough to require significant garden space.

This is of course not a problem for the few live Christmas trees that happen to get planted where they have plenty of space. However, those that get planted where they do not have room to grow can cause serious problems. Because they seem so cute and innocent while they are young, and are so often expected to stay cute and innocent, many often get planted dangerously close to houses, where they can displace porches, walkways and even foundations! Large pines, particularly Italian stone pines, are also too messy and potentially combustible (if not pruned and groomed regularly) to be too close to houses.

Sadly, large pines do not like to stay in containers too long. They can be pruned for a few years, but eventually get congested roots. (Bonsai techniques of root pruning can maintain even the largest types of pines in containers indefinitely, but not many of us know these techniques.) Small pines, like Austrian black, Japanese black and Scott’s pine (which has no relation to Scott’s Valley), as well as other small coniferous evergreens, like certain junipers, can stay in containers much longer, but these are the sort that are small enough to get planted in the garden, so do not necessarily need to stay in containers anyway.

If space is not sufficient, pines and other live Christmas trees that eventually get too large really should be given to friends and neighbors who have space to accommodate them. Fortunately, most do not require much attention once they get established after two years or so.

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Arizona Cypress

Arizona cypress is distinctively grayish green.

Classification of this species may be complicated. About five distinct varieties of Arizona cypress, Cupressus arizonica, occur naturally. Some may sometimes classify as distinct species. Some grow no higher than twenty feet, with stout and shrubby form. Some grow fifty feet high, with sculpturally irregular form. Botanists may not agree on their identities.

Old trees that mostly grew from seed are typically noticeably variable. Some exhibit nice bluish green foliar color. Others are more grayish green. Modern trees are mostly modern cultivars with strikingly uniform silvery blue foliar color. Some are supposedly conducive to hedging, which enhances foliar color. Although evergreen, foliage is freshest in spring.

Without hedging, Arizona cypress develops splendid natural forms. Whether sculpturally irregular or compactly shrubby, it may need only minor grooming. Its finely textured foliar debris disappears into any ground cover below. However, such foliage can have a mildly herbicidal effect on lawns. Arizona cypress trees in a row can be an effective windbreak.

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Shade Trees

Trees are the most substantial components of a landscape.

Shady characters inhabit some of the best gardens. Actually, most of the best gardens have some sort of shade tree. There are so many to choose from for every sort of garden. Some stay small and compact enough to provide only a minimal shadow for a small atrium. Others are large enough to shade large areas of lawn.

Like every other plant in the garden, shade trees should be selected according to their appropriateness to particular applications. Favorite trees are of course welcome, but should be placed in appropriate locations where they will be less likely to cause problems later. For example, those of us who like silver maples should only plant them where they will not crowd other trees, and if there is sufficient area to accommodate them when mature. Southern magnolias are bold shade trees, but create too much mess for infrequently raked lawns, and create too much shade for many other plants around them.

Shade trees near to the home should be deciduous if possible. This means that they will drop their leaves to be not so shady when it would be good to get more sunlight through winter. Honey locust, red oak, Raywood ash, tulip tree and many varieties of maple (except Japanese maple) are some of the best. Silver maple gets a bit too large for small gardens, but is an elegant shade tree for large lawns. Japanese maple and smoke tree are small trees that fit nicely into an atrium or a small enclosed garden.

Evergreen trees also make good shade trees, but should be kept farther from the home if possible, in order to avoid shading too much through winter. Besides, most evergreen trees are messier than deciduous trees so are not so desirable over lawns, patios or roofs. Camphor tree and several of the well behaved eucalypti are delightful shade trees where their litter will not bother anyone. Mayten tree is a smaller tree for more confined areas. Strategically placed evergreen shade trees can also function to obscure unwanted views.

Every shade tree creates a specific flavor of shade. Honey locust makes just enough shade for summer weather without making the garden too dark for other plants and lawn grass. Silver maple is a bit shadier. The shade of redwood and Southern magnolia (when mature) though, is so dark that not many other plants want to get close to them.

Remember that appropriate shade trees may be in the garden for decades or even centuries. It is best to select them accordingly so there will be fewer problems in the future.

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Silver Mountain Gum

Silver mountain gum needs no irrigation once established.

The bulky trunk and limbs, and shaggy bark of silver mountain gum, Eucalyptus pulverulenta, seem like they should be associated with a more imposing tree. Mature specimens are rarely more than twenty five feet tall. Those that try to get taller often fall over or break apart because they are unable to support their own weight, particularly if watered too generously. Aggressive pruning in spring and summer limits size, and also promotes an abundance of silvery juvenile foliage, which is popular as cut foliage.

Juvenile leaves are round and sessile (without petioles or stalks), and arranged in strict four-ranked formation. (Each pair of opposite leaves alternates with similar but perpendicular pairs.) Adult foliage is almost lanceolate (lance shaped) and not quite as silvery. Small, white, staminate flowers (without obvious petals) bloom between leaves from autumn through winter. Young stems have peeling bark.

Like almost all eucalypti, silver mountain gum gets established most efficiently and grows best if planted while small. They are actually best grown from seed, which can sometimes be obtained online. The next best option, which is actually least common, is #1 (1 gallon) trees. #5 (5 gallon) trees are typically the smallest trees available. Larger trees are likely to have problems dispersing their roots. Once established, silver mountain gum needs no fertilizer or watering.

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Deodar Cedar

Deodar cedar develops casual conical form.

“Cedar” is a common name of a few species of a few genera that are not actually cedars. Western red cedar is an arborvitae. Eastern red cedar is a juniper. Deodar cedar, Cedrus deodara, happens to be one of only three real cedars. Atlas cedar and cedar of Lebanon are the other two. Cultivars of Atlas cedar are uncommon. Cedar of Lebanon is very rare.

Although too big for compact gardens, deodar cedar is one of the more popular conifers. It performs splendidly within local climates and soils, as if it is right at home. Mature trees can survive without irrigation. Roots are generally complaisant, and disperse too deeply to displace pavement. However, deodar cedar can grow fifty feet tall and thirty feet wide.

Deodar cedar mostly develop casually conical form. Some develop multiple trunks or big limbs that eventually curve upward like trunks. Otherwise, limbs tend to droop somewhat at their tips. Glaucous grayish needle leaves are about an inch or two long. Most occur in terminal clusters of short spur stems. Some develop singly on elongated vigorous stems. Foliar debris has an herbicidal effect on the ground below.

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Live Christmas Trees

Some live Christmas trees grow too big for home gardens.

They appear to be so simple and innocent now, shorn strictly into conical form and perhaps adorned with any remnants of their Christmas time employment, but living Christmas trees can potentially become big problems. Italian stone pine, which is one of the most popular living Christmas trees, can get nearly eighty feet tall and sixty feet wide, with massive trunks and limbs! Regardless, they often get planted in small gardens and tight situations after Christmas because they do not seem like they would do any harm.

Most living Christmas trees can eventually become large trees. Canary Island pine, Aleppo pine, Monterey pine and Afghan pine are the most notorious since they are the most common, and also because they are not so easily recognized while they are young Christmas trees. Their juvenile foliage is more softly textured and often lighter colored than their more substantial adult foliage.

These most common living Christmas trees do not like to stay potted for very long, and are not very conducive to subsequent shearing. Consequently, many do not survive through their first summer, and those that do often get planted in the garden without much thought. Until recent years, they were seldom labeled; so few people knew how big they could get.

Coastal redwood, giant redwood, deodar cedar and Arizona cypress as living Christmas trees are neither as common, nor as likely to not get recognized as trees that eventually get quite large. They need their space nonetheless. Fortunately, they are generally somewhat more practical for some spacious gardens than the large pines are.

Scotts pine, Austrian black pine (rare), Japanese black pine, Eastern red cedar (juniper), Rocky Mountain juniper, some arborvitae and the various spruce are some of the best living Christmas trees. They grow somewhat slowly, are more cooperative with pruning and can live in tubs long enough to function as Christmas trees for a few years. When they eventually get too large for their pots, they are not so likely to get too large for the garden.

Whether a Colorado blue spruce being retired after ten years of service or an Italian stone pine being retired after only a single Christmas, a living Christmas tree needs some help with the transition from pot to garden. Any circling roots should be severed when the pot gets removed. Otherwise, roots become constricted as the circling roots grow and expand.

Much of the dense foliar canopy should be thinned out to compensate for confinement of roots. Besides, much of the shorn growth is actually disfigured and will eventually get replaced and shed as new growth develops above the original canopy. Formerly pruned spruce, redwood, deodar cedar and most pines may need minor trimming of the upper new growth to promote a single leader (that will develop into the main trunk).

It is best to plant living Christmas trees rather soon after Christmas so that they can loiter in the garden through winter. Rain and cool temperatures keep them from desiccating as their roots start to disperse before new foliage starts to emerge in spring. Newly planted living Christmas trees should be watered somewhat regularly during their first year because their roots take some time to disperse adequately.

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Blue Atlas Cedar

Blue Atlas cedar creates distinctive silhouettes.

No other coniferous tree develops such distinctively irregular form. Very few exhibit such distinctively steely grayish blue foliar color. Blue Atlas cedar, Cedrus atlantica ‘Glauca’ is no simple shade tree. It is a striking trophy tree that is worthy of prominent display within grand landscapes. It is ideal for traffic circles, without other trees to obscure its boldness.

Blue Atlas cedar is also sufficiently resilient for traffic circles and other difficult situations. Arid warmth, even if enhanced by pavement, roofs or walls, should be no problem. Once established, blue Atlas cedar does not crave much irrigation. It should be able to survive with none. Excessively frequent or copious irrigation is more likely to become a problem.

Blue Atlas cedar can grow a hundred feet tall in the wild within its native range. It should not grow much more than half as tall with good exposure within landscapes. Trunks may slowly grow to almost six feet wide. Canopies can eventually grow wider than thirty feet. ‘Glauca Pendula’ is weeping blue Atlas cedar, which is smaller but even more exquisite. ‘Aurea’ with gold tips, is very rare.

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Carob

Carob eventually develops gnarly branch structure.

John the Baptist survived in the Wilderness of Judah by eating locusts and honey. These locusts could have been large orthopteran insects, such as grasshoppers. However, they were more likely fruits of locust trees, such as carob, Ceratonia siliqua. Both possibilities are both nutritious and kosher. The insects got their name from resemblance to the fruit.

That was almost two millennia ago, and more than seven thousand miles away. Carob is much more popular than grasshoppers here and now. Unfortunately though, within home gardens, the fruit is more of a mess than an asset. Male trees are not messy like females, but produce objectionable floral fragrance. Monoecious trees are both messy and stinky.

Mature trees develop broad canopies that are generally less than thirty feet high. Trunks and main limbs eventually become sculpturally gnarly. Densely evergreen foliage is very shady. Pinnately compound leaves are olive drab, glossy and four to seven inches long. Female orchard cultivars should be fruitless without a pollinator, but are rarely available. Besides, it is impossible to know if a male tree is within pollination range.

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Victorian Box

Victorian box does not get too big.

In the right situation, Victorian box, Pittosporum undulatum, is a nice small to mid-sized shade tree with dense foliage, sculptural branch structure and pleasantly fragrant spring bloom. In the wrong situation, it drops enough leaves, flowers and sticky seeds and bits of seed capsules to make quite a mess. This finely textured and sometimes sticky debris is easily absorbed into thick, shade tolerant ground cover like Algerian ivy, but is difficult to rake from pavement and to clean from roof gutters. Besides, even though Victorian box is not a large tree, the roots can eventually become aggressive enough to displace pavement.  

Young trees grow rather vigorously to about ten feet tall and wide, and then slow down somewhat as they continue to grow to as much as three times as tall and wide. They are easily contained with occasional selective pruning. The small, clustered flowers are not as impressive as their fragrance, adding only a bit of pale yellowish white color over the exterior of the rounded canopy. Some people, as well as birds, like the greenish olive-sized fruit that turns orange and eventually splits open to reveal sticky orange seeds within. (‘Pittosporum’ translates into ‘sticky seed’.) Leaves are about two or three inches long, or longer, with ‘undulating’ margins.