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Potted Plants Within Home Gardens

Philodendrons are famously adaptable to potting.

Potted plants would rather be in the ground. That is the simplest truth. Pots confine roots that would prefer to disperse more extensively into natural soil. Yet, container gardening is more popular than ever, for various reasons. Planters and pots happen to be practical for many situations. They allow cultivation of plants that require special accommodation.

Houseplants, for example, can only inhabit their homes as potted plants. There is no soil for them to disperse roots into. Cascading plants, like Boston ferns and pothos, can only cascade from elevated pots. Several popular houseplants live only as houseplants here. They might be too vulnerable to winter weather to live in the garden throughout the year.

Potted plants are also practical for balconies and elevated decks. Some condominiums, townhomes and apartments have no more garden space than that. Regardless of garden space, pots contain invasive plants, like mint and horseradish. Bamboo popularly grows in big tubs that it can not escape from. Also, pots protect vulnerable plants from gophers.

Portability is a primary advantage of potted plants. Where winters are cool, potted plants that are vulnerable to frost can relocate to shelter. Plants such as cymbidium orchids can move to more prominent sites while blooming. Then, they can go to less prominent sites when they finish. Potted plants can move about on patios and decks like patio furniture.

There are also a few disadvantages to potted plants, though. They are always reliant on watering. Confinement of roots limits the drought tolerance of otherwise drought tolerant plants. Thin plastic pots can get uncomfortably warm in full sun exposure. They can also get quite cool during cool weather. Pots can rot wooden decks and stain concrete patios.

Conventional pots are wider on top and narrower at their bases for a reason. This shape allows firm root systems to slide out for planting in the ground or bigger pots. Such roots can not slide out of pots that are wider in the middle than on top. Pots with narrower tops are practical only for small plants, like annuals. Such plants do not develop sturdy roots.

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Roots Are A Necessary Compromise

Surface roots can be very aggressive.

With very few exceptions, all plants have roots. Almost all roots remain out of view within soil or potting media. Consequently, they do not get much consideration or credit for their important functions. They stabilize and collect nutrients for the plants that disperse them. They are as diverse and specialized as the stems and foliage of the plants they sustain.

Naturally, large plants like trees and big shrubbery disperse their roots very extensively. They must in order to obtain the nutrients and moisture they need to sustain themselves. In home gardens, though, they do not need to disperse their roots nearly as extensively. With watering and maybe fertilization, they can obtain what they need relatively closely.

Roots of domestic trees and shrubs are therefore more confined than those of wild trees. They are also closer to the surface of the soil. Roots of plants that prefer better drainage will not disperse very deeply. Unfortunately, some are likely to displace infrastructure on the surface of the soil. They damage sidewalks, curbs, driveways, and even foundations.

Repair of such damage typically involves removing or at least severing the causal roots. Severing substantial roots can be stressful to their associated trees or shrubs. It can also destabilize them. Some of such trees and shrubs may actually require complete removal. Future damage is somewhat avoidable by simply planting appropriate trees and shrubs.

Near pavement, appropriate trees should innately exhibit complaisant root systems. For trees that have potential to damage nearby concrete, root barriers might be useful. Root barriers are rigid plastic devices that surround the root systems of new trees. They direct root growth downward. Most extend into the soil two feet deep, but are open underneath.

Other types of root barrier are available for established trees. They are either flexible but firm plastic flashing, or fabric studded with herbicide pellets. They too extend into the soil two feet deep. After trenching to cut damaging roots next to pavement, a root barrier goes into the trench. Filling the trench holds the barrier in place to redirect encroaching roots.

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Soil Is More Than Dirt

Amendment makes good soil even better.

Weeds are plants that grow wildly where they are undesirable. Therefore, all weeds are plants, but not all plants are weeds. Similarly, dirt is soil or similar substances where it is undesirable. Therefore, some dirt is soil, but soil is not necessarily dirt. The assumption that soil is dirt is disrespectful to the foundation of the garden. Roots know the difference.

Roots are experts in regard to soil because they inhabit it. They must disperse through it to procure nutrients and water, and to conduct respiration. They also provide stability for their associated stems and foliage above. Various soils are naturally diverse. Vegetation is more diverse to exploit them. Not many soils can not sustain some type of vegetation.

Soil, most simply, is the loose aggregates on the surfaces of most land. Loose is relative, since some soils are dense and quite hard. The inorganic aggregates range in size from microscopic clay particles to coarse sand. Most soils include small stones. Some include significant stones. Almost all soils contain organic material. Exposed bedrock lacks soil.

The texture of a soil is its ratio of the three basic components, sand, silt and clay. Sandy soils drain efficiently, but do not retain moisture as well as dense clay soils do. Clay soils retain more moisture, but do not drain as efficiently. Like climates, soils limit what grows well in a garden. Although local soils are of good quality, some benefit from amendment.

Soil amendments, such as compost, may improve both drainage and moisture retention. They also improve aeration and, as they decompose, they generate additional nutrients. Such organic amendments are helpful with the installation of new plants. They promote healthy dispersion of roots. They are also particularly useful for annuals and vegetables.

Fertilizers promote growth by providing more of the nutrients that the soil provides. Each nutrient promotes different types of growth. For example, phosphorus promotes floral and fruit growth. Nitrogen promotes vegetative growth. The formulation of synthetic fertilizers is very precise for specific results. Organic fertilizers can be less potent, but are effective.

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Soil Amendment Might Be Overkill

Excessive soil amendment may be unnecessary.

Planting should not be complicated. The primary objective is to settle formerly contained roots into the ground safely. It includes motivating roots to disperse into surrounding soil. This might involve disruption of constricting or congested roots. It may involve addition of fertilizer. Soil amendment such as compost is likely useful to entice root growth outward.

For almost all substantial woody plants and most large perennials, this is only temporary. Their roots disperse faster than their original soil amendment decomposes. They require no more soil amendment incorporated into their soil afterward. Such incorporation would damage their dispersing roots. This could defeat the original purpose of soil amendment.

For such substantial plants, soil amendment only provides a transition into endemic soil. Without it, roots may be tempted to continue to grow within their original potting medium. If endemic soil is less appealing to them, they might lack motivation to disperse outward. Soil amendment mixed with their endemic soil provides them the motivation they require.

Mulching with soil amendment over the surface of the soil is a different procedure. Since it requires no incorporation into the soil, it severs no roots below the surface. Yet, it helps retain moisture and insulates the soil. As it decomposes, mulch adds organic nutrients to the soil. For established plants, mulching is a noninvasive technique with a few benefits.

Vegetable plants and annuals enjoy soil amendment more than more substantial plants. Proportionately, they consume much more of the nutrients that the amendments provide. Yet, they do not inhabit their soil long enough to crave more than they start with. Addition of amendment during their replacement damages no roots. It provides for the next phase.

Soil amendment is available either bagged or in bulk from nurseries and garden centers. Home garden generated compost is less expensive, since it costs nothing but effort. The process of composting is involved, but it utilizes otherwise useless garden detritus. Many home gardens generate more compost than they may use. Neighbors sometimes share.

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Soil Saturation Can Drown Roots

Only riparian species tolerate sustained saturation.

Irrigation must adapt to weather. It was unnecessary for exposed vegetation during rainy winter weather. It became necessary through drier spring weather. Now, it must adjust for increasingly warm and dry summer weather. This is not as simple as application of more water more frequently. Excessive irrigation causes soil saturation, which damages roots.

Soil saturation is unfortunately common within landscapes that gardeners maintain. The risk of desiccation is more of a concern to gardeners than wasteful irrigation. Desiccation is certainly more apparent than symptoms of saturation. Besides, gardeners assume the costs of neither water nor damaged vegetation. Chronic damage can become significant.

Soil saturation is less common within gardens that lack gardeners, but is not impossible. Soil within pots can become saturated if vigorous roots clog drainage holes. Water which lingers too long in saucers under pots maintains saturation. Irrigation that is too frequent, too generous or both maintains saturation. Of course, different soil types drain differently.

Soil saturation deprives roots of the aeration that they need to survive. A few species are somewhat tolerant of saturation, but fewer tolerate it for long. With few exceptions, newer roots avoid saturation, so disperse shallowly. For trees, this limits stability and increases their likelihood of displacing pavement. Even shrubbery might develop buttressing roots.

Roots that dispersed prior to saturation are vulnerable to rot as soil saturation increases. This not only destabilizes trees, but also compromises their health. Formerly healthy turf grass and ground cover become chlorotic. Some turf grass becomes infested with fungal pathogens, and perhaps moss. Flowers and fruits might shrivel before they develop fully.

It is impossible to prescribe ideal irrigation schedules and application rates for every site. Climate, soil type, slope, exposure and vegetation types are all considerations. Moisture requirements change seasonally and as vegetation matures. Only direct observation can help determine appropriate irrigation frequencies and rates. It is a very involved process.

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Soil Saturation Kills

Use irrigation responsibly.

London plane tree is trendy not because it is all that excellent, but because it is so reliable. It is actually a rather trashy and messy tree that is susceptible to anthracnose and powdery mildew. Landscapers and gardeners like it so much only because the various maples, oaks and other better trees are more sensitive to soil saturation while they get established.

The truth is that most landscapers and gardeners do not want to put any effort into proper watering. While many of us let our lawns die to conserve a bit of water, they waste enough water on lawns and landscapes to sustain rice paddies! This keeps lawns and landscapes superficially green, but eventually causes problems.

Powdery mildew, anthracnose, molds, blights, rots and all sorts of diseases proliferate in damp conditions. Of course, gardeners are happy to apply fungicides and other chemicals to help control diseases; for a price. Also for a price, they are there to replace plants that succumb to any of the many diseases associated with excessive moisture.

Like London plane, several other trees and plants can survive excessive moisture, but only by adapting. If lower soil is regularly saturated, roots are confined to upper soil. This is not a problem for lily-of-the-Nile and many other perennials that can sneak their roots unnoticed into to the upper few inches of soil. However, trees can not get away with this habit for long; since their shallow and buttressing roots eventually expand to displace pavement, other plants and anything else that gets in their way.

Mature and old trees do not adapt. Their deep roots are already set in their ways, so will only rot if they get significantly more water than they are accustomed to. Oaks are particularly susceptible.

Unfortunately, there is no exact formula for determining how much water lawns and gardens should get. There are simply too many variables, such as soil type, drainage, exposure, weather and demand for moisture. Lawns need frequent watering without much volume. Trees prefer more generous watering, but less frequently.

Lawns and trees and everything else in between all need air within the root zone. Watering should therefore not keep soil constantly saturated, but instead allow for adequate drainage and aeration of the soil between watering, without complete desiccation. New plants will of course need more attention until they disperse their roots, but will be happier and healthier with proper watering.

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Rotating Vegetables Should Enhance Productivity

Tomato plants are greedy for nutrients.

Warm season vegetables are beginning to replace cool season vegetables. Some types prefer to start earlier than others. A few might displace lingering predecessors before the predecessors finish. Timing is not everything, though. Location may be as relevant. If the garden did not move, some vegetables should. Many or most benefit from rotating crops.

Vegetable plants are innately greedy in regard to particular nutrients. They might deplete such nutrients from their soil within a few years. Some may not take that long, particularly within less than ideal soils. However, different types of vegetables deplete different types of nutrients. Rotating vegetable plants disperses and decelerates this nutrient depletion.

Tomato plants deplete their favorite nutrients. Therefore, new tomato plants should likely avoid soil that tomatoes formerly occupied. Corn can use such soil instead, and may not notice a deficiency of nutrients. After all, each craves something different. Beans can use the same soil afterward for the same reason. Rotating crops shares resources equitably.

Bell peppers are related to tomatoes, so deplete similar nutrients. Therefore, they should also avoid soil that tomatoes formerly occupied. All types of beans should similarly avoid soil that any type of bean utilized. Fortunately, warm season vegetables are unrelated to most cool season vegetables. What grew last summer is now relevant for rotating crops.

Nutrient depletion is not permanent, though. Rotating crops, while accommodating such depletion, also accelerates replenishment. For example, beans should not deplete much of what tomatoes crave. They instead replenish some of what tomatoes crave. Tomatoes, can therefore eventually return to where they grew before. After all, rotation goes around.

Warm season vegetables generally require more nutrients than cool season vegetables. That is because so many warm season vegetables are actually fruits that contain seeds. Most cool season vegetables are vegetative, without seed. Consequently, warm season vegetables are more appreciative of rotating. Cool season vegetables are more passive. Cool season vegetables do not grow long enough locally to deplete much anyway.

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Landslide

This is the other side of the landslide that I posted a picture of for Six on Saturday a few days ago. As I mentioned then, it looked worse from this side. I suspect that it came down immediately prior to my arrival. No one else was aware of it, and there was no indication that anyone had tried to get around it or move any of its debris. It was just past my driveway, which is where Carson, the Roadmaster, was parked. However, because there are two households beyond it, the debris needed to be removed promptly. I did not want anyone else to do it, though. I wanted to separate the stone from the soil because I can use the stone to construct low retaining walls. Also, I wanted to use the soil to fill low spots within parking spaces at the top of the driveway. Although these low spots are very close to where the soil and stone was, and it should have been very obvious that soil could have been used to fill them, I know from experience that few put much effort into performing such a tasks in an efficient manner. Actually, they often seem to put significant effort into inefficiency. For example, the mound to the far right of the picture is debris from an landslide that occurred earlier. It is directly adjacent to a low spot that remains low because no one bothered to put any debris into it. So, now, there is a high spot directly adjacent to a low spot. Large stones were pushed over the edge, where they rolled into a portion of my garden below, bashed bark from trees, and are now where I do not want them to be. I hoped to avoid such problems with this landslide.

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Horridculture – Pave Paradise

pavement within pavement within pavement

The Santa Clara Valley really is, as it was formerly known, the Valley of Heart’s Delight. A long time ago, it was famous for vast orchards that thrived in its exemplary climate and soil. The climate is still here, but so are nearly two million people who now live where orchards formerly were. Not so much of the formerly productive soil remains exposed, and almost none is appreciated for its potential. Urban development continues to expand to occupy more of it. At a strip mall in the Berryessa District of San Jose, I noticed what appeared to be gravesites of small patches of once exposed soil that died slow deaths after all other soil around them was developed. The concrete pavement outside of and below the yellow curbs was likely the original parking area, walkway and paved patio, which were separated from each other by what was likely small landscaped patches of exposed soil within and at the same level as the yellow curbs. Sometime after the area outside of the curbs were paved, most of what was likely exposed soil within was also paved with exposed aggregate concrete, leaving only what was likely three smaller square patches of exposed soil, perhaps for trees to survive in. Eventually, even these three smaller square patches of exposed soil were also paved with simpler concrete. It is impossible to say why all this concrete pavement was necessary, or why exposed soil was so objectionable. Perhaps the dirt was dirty. Perhaps it was infested with weeds. Perhaps all this concrete is some sort of Brutalistic art. Regardless, the good soil below is now useless. The patio now lacks shade from trees. A little bit more of the Santa Clara Valley can not sustain any vegetation. A little bit more of Paradise is paved.

Brutalism?
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Planting Should Not Be Complicated

Soil amendment should not be excessive.

Autumn and winter are generally the best seasons for planting. Most vegetation is either less active than during other seasons, or dormant. It is therefore more complaisant to the distress of planting procedures. Weather is cooler and wetter than during other seasons. It is therefore less stressful to vulnerable vegetation recovering from planting procedures.

Nonetheless, planting continues throughout the year. Seasonal vegetables and annuals are seasonal at various times. Planting after any lingering chill or potential frost of winter is safer for several species. Also, planting commonly happens whenever it is convenient for whomever does it. Many species are most tempting whenever they happen to bloom.

Generally, this is no problem. Planting while vegetation is active during warm weather is riskier but feasible. It should preferably happen after the warmest time of day. Weather is likely cooler after three in the afternoon. Unusually hot weather justifies delay for another day. Once planted, thorough soaking settles comforting wet soil around vulnerable roots.

Realistically, most planting techniques and concerns are the same regardless of season. The processes only have more potential to be more stressful now than during dormancy. A few species are actually dormant during summer or even spring. Several spring bulbs, such as narcissi, are now ready for division or relocation. Bearded iris rhizomes are also.

Soil amendment helps new plants to feel more comfortable within their new situations. It encourages them to extend roots from their original media into surrounding soil. It should not be excessive though. Contrary to overly popular belief, it is unnecessary below roots. New plants can sink detrimentally below grade if amendment or loose soil below settles.

Stakes for trees that need them must extend past roots and into solid soil below. Binding nursery stakes should be loosened or removed if possible. Binding, which initially keeps trunks straight, can later interfere with trunk development. All new plants need systematic watering through dry seasons until they disperse roots. Most appreciate a layer of mulch, to retain moisture and insulate.