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Feral Flowers Are Not Wildflowers

Most nasturtium varieties will eventually revert.

Feral flowers are technically not the same as wildflowers. As their designation suggests, wildflowers grow wild. They always have, without intervention. They are naturally native. Their native ranges can fluctuate, but do so naturally as associated ecosystems change. Their status as wildflowers does not change within home gardens or refined landscapes.

Feral flowers are progeny of cultivated flowers. Almost all are exotic, or nonnative. Some are true to type, which means that they are indistinguishable from the originals. However, because of extensive breeding, many revert to a more genetically stable state. Some can naturalize, or perpetuate without intervention. Then, they seem to behave as wildflowers.

For example, most home garden nasturtiums begin as garden varieties. They bloom with particular colors because of their breeding and selection. Their progeny, however, bloom with more natural floral color. After a few generations, they may bloom only basic orange and yellow. Such feral flowers can naturalize within riparian ecosystems like wildflowers.

Because they are not native, naturalized nasturtium are technically not wildflowers. They are merely naturalized feral flowers. Although they are rarely aggressively invasive, they can interfere with natural ecology. They might compete with native species for resources and space. They can sustain organisms that are pathogens to native vegetation species.

California poppy is a genuinely native wildflower. However, a few home garden varieties developed from selection and breeding. Initially, such varieties bloom with unusual floral colors like white, lavender, pink or red. After a few generations, though, their colors revert to their more natural orange. Although wildflowers, they are also technically feral flowers.

Many of the most noxious weeds here escaped from home gardens and naturalized. For example, common pink pampas grass became popular during the Victorian Period. Now, it is quite naturalized and compromising ecosystems throughout the West Coast. Its feral flowers are appealing, but perpetuate infestation. They are surely not native wildflowers. Water hyacinth and yellow flag are other examples.

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Shade Trees

Trees are the most substantial components of a landscape.

Shady characters inhabit some of the best gardens. Actually, most of the best gardens have some sort of shade tree. There are so many to choose from for every sort of garden. Some stay small and compact enough to provide only a minimal shadow for a small atrium. Others are large enough to shade large areas of lawn.

Like every other plant in the garden, shade trees should be selected according to their appropriateness to particular applications. Favorite trees are of course welcome, but should be placed in appropriate locations where they will be less likely to cause problems later. For example, those of us who like silver maples should only plant them where they will not crowd other trees, and if there is sufficient area to accommodate them when mature. Southern magnolias are bold shade trees, but create too much mess for infrequently raked lawns, and create too much shade for many other plants around them.

Shade trees near to the home should be deciduous if possible. This means that they will drop their leaves to be not so shady when it would be good to get more sunlight through winter. Honey locust, red oak, Raywood ash, tulip tree and many varieties of maple (except Japanese maple) are some of the best. Silver maple gets a bit too large for small gardens, but is an elegant shade tree for large lawns. Japanese maple and smoke tree are small trees that fit nicely into an atrium or a small enclosed garden.

Evergreen trees also make good shade trees, but should be kept farther from the home if possible, in order to avoid shading too much through winter. Besides, most evergreen trees are messier than deciduous trees so are not so desirable over lawns, patios or roofs. Camphor tree and several of the well behaved eucalypti are delightful shade trees where their litter will not bother anyone. Mayten tree is a smaller tree for more confined areas. Strategically placed evergreen shade trees can also function to obscure unwanted views.

Every shade tree creates a specific flavor of shade. Honey locust makes just enough shade for summer weather without making the garden too dark for other plants and lawn grass. Silver maple is a bit shadier. The shade of redwood and Southern magnolia (when mature) though, is so dark that not many other plants want to get close to them.

Remember that appropriate shade trees may be in the garden for decades or even centuries. It is best to select them accordingly so there will be fewer problems in the future.

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Soil Amendment Might Be Overkill

Excessive soil amendment may be unnecessary.

Planting should not be complicated. The primary objective is to settle formerly contained roots into the ground safely. It includes motivating roots to disperse into surrounding soil. This might involve disruption of constricting or congested roots. It may involve addition of fertilizer. Soil amendment such as compost is likely useful to entice root growth outward.

For almost all substantial woody plants and most large perennials, this is only temporary. Their roots disperse faster than their original soil amendment decomposes. They require no more soil amendment incorporated into their soil afterward. Such incorporation would damage their dispersing roots. This could defeat the original purpose of soil amendment.

For such substantial plants, soil amendment only provides a transition into endemic soil. Without it, roots may be tempted to continue to grow within their original potting medium. If endemic soil is less appealing to them, they might lack motivation to disperse outward. Soil amendment mixed with their endemic soil provides them the motivation they require.

Mulching with soil amendment over the surface of the soil is a different procedure. Since it requires no incorporation into the soil, it severs no roots below the surface. Yet, it helps retain moisture and insulates the soil. As it decomposes, mulch adds organic nutrients to the soil. For established plants, mulching is a noninvasive technique with a few benefits.

Vegetable plants and annuals enjoy soil amendment more than more substantial plants. Proportionately, they consume much more of the nutrients that the amendments provide. Yet, they do not inhabit their soil long enough to crave more than they start with. Addition of amendment during their replacement damages no roots. It provides for the next phase.

Soil amendment is available either bagged or in bulk from nurseries and garden centers. Home garden generated compost is less expensive, since it costs nothing but effort. The process of composting is involved, but it utilizes otherwise useless garden detritus. Many home gardens generate more compost than they may use. Neighbors sometimes share.

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Advice From reneesgarden.com

When is the best time to pick the perfect tomato?

My colleagues and I are rather proficient with communicating with the plants in the garden. Plants let us know when they want a particular nutrient, or are getting hassled by a particular pest. Those that produce fruit and vegetables also tell us when it is time to harvest. The only problem is that some horticulturists are not quite as receptive to information about ripening produce as we are to problems.

As my tomatoes ripen, I eat them whenever I want to, even if they are warm from hanging out in the sun. Any fruits or vegetables are fair game as soon as they are ready to get eaten. Although I will grow just about anything in my garden, I never bothered to learn how cook or even handle fruits and vegetables properly. For me, the best time to harvest is when I am hungry.

Those of us with more discriminating taste eventually become acquainted with the produce that we grow, so that we know when and how to harvest it to achieve the best quality. We learn how to translate the fragrance of a ripening melon, and to tap to determine density and consistency. Maturity of corn can be determined by their drying tassels, and confirmed by puncturing a few kernels. Color and texture of pea pods let us know when the peas within have achieved their optimum plumpness.

Renee of Renee’s Garden, which is perhaps my favorite supplier of vegetable and flower seed, describes some less obvious recommendations for harvesting produce at the website http://www.reneesgarden.com. While the weather is so pleasant through summer, it is best to harvest vegetables in the morning, while it is still cool in the garden. If harvested later in the day, vegetables can wilt because of evaporation of moisture and absorption of warmth. If  harvesting in the morning is not possible, harvesting in the evening is the next best option.

Leafy vegetables like lettuce, chard, collard, basil and parsley, as well as pea, are particularly sensitive to getting harvested during warm weather. Green beans grow like weeds during warm days, but are slightly crisper if picked while cool. Vegetables in the cabbage family that are grown later in the year or early in the following year, such as cauliflower and broccoli, can likewise get limp.

Root vegetables like carrot, radish and turnip are not nearly as sensitive to warmth because they are so well insulated underground. They should be brought in out of the warmth and refrigerated (if preferred) quickly nonetheless. However, turnip greens and any other greens that are grown  as root vegetables are just as likely to wilt as other leafy vegetables are.

Eggplant, pepper and zucchini are more resilient, but can potentially get limp if harvested a few days before getting eaten and left to linger in a warm and dry (minimal humidity) kitchen. Many varieties of tomato are best directly out of the garden; but many others actually get better flavor if harvested a bit early and left to finish ‘off the vine’. In autumn, when tomato plants stop producing, the last but nearly mature green tomatoes that run out of warm weather can finish ripening on the kitchen windowsill.

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Sun Exposure Relative To Orientation

Sun exposure changes with the seasons.

Understory plants, which tolerate various degrees of shade, are more popular than ever. Basically, smaller modern gardens amongst larger modern homes are shadier than ever. Densely evergreen trees that provide privacy for such gardens also provide more shade. Sunlight can be scarce. It may be helpful to know where to locate optimal sun exposure.

The sun moves from east to west as each day gets warmer. It does so more or less to the south of vertical. It is a bit farther to the south for winter than for summer. Such orientation and motion determine sun exposure within home gardens. Each side of a house, garage or fence faces one of such exposure or another. Eaves might provide shade from above.

Eastern exposure is good for plants that crave some direct sun exposure but not warmth. Azalea, rhododendron, andromeda and hydrangea prefer such exposures. They receive enough sunlight to bloom, but not so much that their foliage scorches. They enjoy partial shade before sunshine gets uncomfortably warm. Eastern exposures are sunny but cool.

Northern exposure is good for plants that do not require much sun exposure. Hydrangea may be somewhat lanky within such situations. Clivia, elephant ears, philodendrons and ferns may be better options. Upper floors and eaves significantly enlarge the shadows of northern exposure. Shadows are also larger in winter while the sun is lower to the south.

Western exposure is good for plants that crave both direct sun exposure and warmth. It is the opposite of eastern exposures, but is certainly no less sunny. It is merely warmer. Lily of the Nile, lavender, oleander and bougainvillea enjoy such sunny warmth. Some types of ferns and elephant ears may scorch with such exposure. Eaves delay direct exposure.

Southern exposure is good for plants that crave full sun exposure, but tolerate heat. Most plants that enjoy western exposure can also enjoy southern exposure. Many vegetables, with regular watering, are more productive with such exposure. Eaves provide shade for the warmest summer weather. They provide less shade while the sun is lower for winter.

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Herbal Tea Options

Even passion flower can make a nice, albeit colorless, tea.

When she was younger, my niece, who happens to be the most elegantly refined girl in Gilroy, enjoyed doing tea.  She certainly had the technique, as well as two patient grandmothers, to indulge in this particular tradition properly. The only problem was caffeine.

She was such a young lady; and her Nana and Grandma refrained from the consumption of caffeine. Black tea, made from the fermented bud leaves of tea camellias, was not a good option. Even green tea, made from the same leaves but without fermentation, contains some degree of caffeine. Herbal teas were more practical, as well as appealing to the discriminating taste of a young lady of such impeccable refinement.

There are all sorts of herbal teas made from flowers, leaves and fruit that can be grown in home gardens. Mint, chamomile and lemon grass are perhaps the most well known. Peppermint, spearmint and the many other varieties of mint all have unique flavors. Lavender, particularly French lavender, and some of the many sages can be used to add a bit of their distinctive flavors, too.

Thinly sliced and dried ginger and licorice root make spicy teas that are also good remedies to a mildly upset stomach. However, flowering ginger is not as robust as herbal ginger is. Finely chopped dried berries, cherries, apricots and quince, as well as the rinds of lemons and oranges, add their fruity flavors. The extensive tea list at the White Raven in Felton features teas flavored with dried hibiscus flowers, pelargoniums and rose hips.

Experimenting with herbal tea is like cooking. Within reason, anything goes. Tea can even be made from the dried young shoots of Douglas fir! The only plants that can not be used as tea are those that are potentially toxic.

Tea can of course be enjoyed hot, cold, or even at ambient temperature. Herbal tea is almost always made from dried plant parts, but can be made from fresh parts as well. The various mints have different flavors if brewed from fresh bits taken directly from the garden instead of dried leaves. I actually like to add a few fresh leaves from rose scented geranium (pelargonium) to common sun tea made by leaving black tea to brew out in a jar in the sun.

While they are in season, I also like to add a thin slice of fresh quince, which is so strongly flavored that it is just as effective fresh as it is dried for sun tea or hot tea. Apples and crabapples are also nice, but with much milder, and perhaps even boring, flavor. I prefer to eat the apples and then drop the cores into tea. A Slice or two of richly flavored fig can be good in sweetened hot tea.

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Spontaneous Limb Failure Among Trees

Willows commonly exhibit spontaneous limb failure.

Soil saturation is detrimental to trees for a few reasons. Excessive irrigation is almost as problematic, even without saturation. Chronic excessive moisture compromises stability by inhibiting deep root dispersion. Instead, it promotes shallower root buttressing. It may compromise structural integrity, too. It is generally the cause of spontaneous limb failure.

Spontaneous limb failure is exactly what it implies. Its spontaneity is what makes it more hazardous than limb failure caused by wind. It happens while the weather is calm, warm and perhaps humid, when least expected. Limbs might sag and produce cracking noises immediately prior to falling. However, they quite often fall suddenly and without warning.

Spontaneous limb failure is associated more with gravity than wind. It occurs as vigorous stems literally grow faster than they can support. Warm weather accelerates foliar growth that increases weight. A lack of wind and perhaps enhanced humidity inhibit evaporation from foliar surfaces. Inhibition of evapotranspiration limits weight loss during weight gain.

Deciduous trees are generally more susceptible to spontaneous limb failure. Sweetgum, willows, poplars and elms are particularly vulnerable. A few evergreen trees are likewise susceptible, though. They include coast live oak, Monterey cypress and a few eucalypti. Fruit trees exhibit spontaneous limb failure if they can not support the weight of their fruit.

The potential for spontaneous limb failure is rarely obvious. Limbs of some types of trees may visually appear to be too heavy or floppy. Limbs of Monterey pine, for example, may lean to one side if they sag prior to failure. However, valley oak, carob and sycamore are notorious for concealing their weaknesses. Even arborists can not predict all limb failure.

Wild trees within new landscapes are particularly vulnerable to spontaneous limb failure. They are not accustomed to irrigation through otherwise arid summers. Some can adapt as landscapes with irrigation develop around them. Others overindulge and become too heavy for their own trunks or limbs to support. New trees adapt to irrigation as they grow.

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Color Selection

There are not many colors that bearded iris can not provide.

If I could select my favorite color for the flowers in the garden, they would all bloom white. There is no more perfect color. White may be bright or pale, but lacks the many shades that other colors have. There is no need to select between deep blue or sky blue, bright yellow or pastel yellow, purple or lavender. White is simply white.

The main problem with white, or any other color, is that no color is the right color for every situation. Also, some flowers are simply not at their best in white. Camellias, oleanders and fruit trees look great in white. However, nearly white marigolds, sunflowers and nasturtiums are interesting oddities that are excellent in the right spot, but are not nearly as flashy as the more traditional bright yellow and orange shades are.

My two favorite geraniums are actually reddish orange and fuchsia pink, and really look horrid in bloom together. They are my favorites nonetheless, because I have been growing them since my sophomore year at Prospect High School! I have taken cuttings with me whenever I relocated since then. I enjoy the garden too much to grow things that I do not enjoy.

Flower colors probably should be compatible with the colors and architecture of associated residences and other buildings, as well as the neighborhood. Yet, we all have different tastes. It is more important to grow flowers with the colors that we enjoy, even if they are not exactly perfect for their particular situations. Fortunately, compatible colors are more likely to also be enjoyable.

White happens to be useful in shaded areas, or with an abundance of deep green, such as wax privet hedges. White brightens an area, even in conjunction with other colors. It also softens richer colors like purple or red.

Darker shades of purple, red and blue should be out in the open, since they can make shaded areas seem even darker. Lighter shades, including lavender and pink, can work almost anywhere. True blue happens to be uncommon among flowers, even though the very common lily of the Nile is typically blue.

Yellow and orange seem at home in sunny spots, and also brighten shaded spots if not overdone. Yellow contrasts with purple. Orange contrasts with blue. Orange marigolds and cobalt blue lobelia might look odd in abundance, but can be striking as a border to a perennial or annual bed. Many of us like a random mix of any color; but too much mix over a large area can look like a garage sale of colors. Black, gray and brown flowers are rare and mostly grown by those of us who really appreciate them; since they look quite odd in the wrong situations. Black hollyhock, pansy and bearded iris are perhaps the best blacks, while other black flowers are not so convincing. Gray iris are still quite rare. Brown sunflowers are becoming more popular.

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Integrated Pest Management Really Works

Pesticides are effective but innately toxic.

Wildlife is not the only menace to home garden fruits, nuts and flowers. All sorts of insect pathogens want their share also. Old fashioned nonselective insecticides can be helpful, but can leave toxic residue. They also eliminate beneficial insects that might help control pathogens. Integrated pest management, or simply IPM, is likely a more practical option.

Integrated pest management involves biological, cultural and physical pathogen control. Biological control can involve introduction of beneficial insects that consume pathogens. Ladybugs or lacewings are available from certain nurseries, for control of certain insects. However, doing nothing but allowing beneficial insects to proliferate naturally may work.

Some types of integrated pest management are standard procedure for home gardening. Cultural control may be as simple as growing varieties that are resistant to certain pests. This also involves not growing varieties that are susceptible to locally problematic pests. Sanitation is merely removal of detritus that some pathogens proliferate or overwinter in.

Physical or mechanical integrated pest management can be as simple as picking snails. Copper tape as a barrier to exclude snails and slugs is more involved but more effective. Sticky barriers, like ‘Tanglefoot’, prevent ants from cultivating aphid. (Ants cultivate aphid for sustenance.) Then, wasps, which are a biological control, control the aphid naturally.

Integrated pest management also includes various insect traps. Wasp traps use bait, like pheromones or sweet aroma, to attract stinging insects. Although they are not a problem for vegetation, stinging insects complicate gardening. Thrip traps attract thrip with yellow color, and trap them in glue. Apple maggot traps resemble developing apples, with glue.

Chemical pesticides are not beyond the realm of integrated pest management. However, such pesticides should be as nontoxic as possible. Furthermore, they should target only very specific pathogens. Although modern pesticides are safer than old fashioned types, they are still poison. They have significant potential to interfere with natural ecosystems.

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Warming Summer Weather

Dog Days!

My great grandfather could remember more summers in Sunnyvale than anyone else. He knew how unique every summer was and continues to be. Some summers are uncomfortably hot from beginning to end. Last summer though, was the coolest in recorded history!

Warm summers are of course best for the fruits and vegetables that like warmth. Peaches, grapes, tomatoes and rhubarb in my great grandfather’s garden always got the best flavor during warm weather. Warm but not too hot weather early in summer made the best ‘Bing’ cherries on my grandmother’s tree in Santa Clara.

Although cool summers are more comfortable for dogs, cats and people, they are not quite as conducive to growing fruits and vegetables. It is still too early to know what this summer will be like, but even though it is now getting warm, the warmth is developing late. The past spring was remarkably mild, with rain lingering later than it typically does.

Consequently, some fruits and vegetables, as well as some flowers and trees, are developing slowly. Peaches may be a bit smaller than they typically are, with slightly milder flavor. Rhubarb should have good flavor because of recent warm weather, but may develop a bit late because it got a late start.

Tomatoes are perhaps expressing the most dissatisfaction with the mild weather. Even tomato plants that were put out in the garden early in spring have grown slowly, and are not nearly as productive as they typically are by the beginning of summer. Some are not yet producing!

Fortunately and unfortunately, the weather has gotten significantly warmer. This may be uncomfortable for us; but is a party for the formerly bored tomato plants. Warmth of course promotes bloom and fruit production, and enhances flavor. If they get what they need, tomato plants that seemed sickly in the past may suddenly grow like weeds.

They should waste no time making up for lost time. Even if mild weather continues into summer like it did last summer, it will still get warmer than it has been. Maturing tomato plants will want more water and fertilizer (if used) as they get larger, and the weather gets warmer.