Carpet Jade

Carpet jade resembles common jade plant.

As its common name suggests, it is a sprawling relative of common jade plant. Both are different species of the same genus. Carpet jade, Crassula nudicaulis var. platyphylla, grows only about six inches high. It sprawls slowly over the ground without getting much higher or lower. It roots where it sprawls, so can eventually develop significant colonies.

The evergreen foliage of carpet jade is a bit more dense than that of common jade plant. It is also a bit less glossy. Foliar margins blush a bit more through winter. Most popular cultivars become appealingly ruddy. Sun exposure enhances foliar color. However, frost can damage their exposed succulent leaves. Pale white winter bloom is unimpressive.

Carpet jade, like many succulents, is not very discriminating in regard to water or soil. It is likely to be more vigorous with regular irrigation. With less irrigation, it likely develops better ruddy foliar color. It provides appealing contrast to other small succulents with gray foliage. It performs well within pots, and may eventually cascade slightly over the edges.

Succulent Plants Exhibit Unique Foliage

Succulents provide unique texture and form.

All cacti are succulents. However, not all succulents are cacti. Actually, cacti are a very unique family. Their distinctive spines and thorns are very specialized leaves and stems. Such specialized leaves can not photosynthesize without green chlorophyll. Therefore, cacti rely on their succulent green trunks for photosynthesis. Their trunks work as foliage.

But of course, not all succulents are cacti. Other succulents have succulent leaves. Most also have succulent stems. Some, such as most agaves and some aloes, are spiny, but not like cacti are. They have real leaves that happen to be spiny. Yucca are supposedly succulent, likely because of their relation to agave. However, they lack succulent parts.

Furthermore, not all succulents are drought tolerant. Many are so only because they are naturally native to desert or chaparral climates. Many others are naturally native to less arid climates. Some that are native to tropical rainforests, like epiphyllum, crave regular watering. Many succulents thrive in harsh exposure. Some prefer a bit of cooling shade.

Succulents are generally very adaptable to container gardening. Ironically though, a few of the most familiar sorts are not as complaisant to containment. Several cacti and other desert species need more water while confined. They must compensate for their inability to disperse roots. However, frequent watering or even excessive rain might promote rot.

Agaves, including those of desert climates, happen to perform splendidly within big pots. In fact, some perform too splendidly. If they grow too big and heavy to move, they are as permanent as if in the ground. Their dangerously spiny foliage compounds the problem. Overgrown cacti are both very difficult to move, and likely to break apart in the process.

Fortunately, there are plenty of smaller, tamer and thornless succulents to choose from. They contribute a remarkable range of foliar form, texture and color to the garden. Some contribute colorful bloom. A few, such as aloes and agaves, produce sculptural bloom. Most succulents are naturally resistant to pathogens, and easy to propagate vegetatively. Rooted scraps are less expensive than nursery stock is.

A Strong Foundation

Well, it was a good try, but these are regenerating quite slowly three years later.

tonytomeo's avatarTony Tomeo

P00628-1 Before: Camellias left the foundation exposed a long time ago, but instead obscured the view from the windows above.

‘Foundation planting’, which most of us think of as vegetation intended to merely obscure a foundation behind lower and prettier plants, has a simple utilitarian origin. Before homes were so commonly outfitted with rain gutters like they are now, densely shrubby foundation plantings diffused water that fell from eaves, and limited splattering of mud onto foundations and walls.

Nowadays, foundation planting only needs to look good, and maybe obscure crawlspace vents or exposed undersides of decks. They might be allowed to get as high as window sills, or higher.

These camellias got more than a bit too high. They had not obscured the cinder block foundation in a very long time, and did not contribute much to the shingled wall above. What was worse was that all of their best foliage…

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Edelweiss – Fail

Hey, I should send a message to the other horticulturist who brought the edelweiss seed from Austria to bring some more, since he happens to be there right now!

tonytomeo's avatarTony Tomeo

P00627K ‘Small and white, clean and bright’? They only got as far as ‘small’ and ‘clean’, but did not get to ‘white’ and ‘bright’.

Edelweiss, edelweiss, every morning you greet me. Small and white, clean and bright, you look happy to meet me. Blossom of snow, may you bloom and grow, bloom and grow forever. Edelweiss, edelweiss, bless my homeland forever.”

Why are there no corny songs like this about California poppy?

Although I never met edelweiss before, I always thought that it must be quite excellent. Those who are familiar with it where it grows wild in European mountains seem to believe so. It does not look like much in pictures, so must be much more impressive if experienced directly.

A colleague here who met it directly in Austria decided to grow some, and easily procured seed online. The seed was chilled in a freezer to simulate winter in…

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Six on Saturday: Occupational Hazards

Work is too much fun! It was supposed to be temporary work until I returned to work in a few months, but that was a few years ago. Well, that is another story. Work can be very frustrating at times also though. Unlike the farm, where only a few of us work on many acres, many very different people work on less acreage here. We all have very distinct priorities.

1. Training this grapevine like this was a lot of work. It extends from a rail fence on top of the retaining wall at the lower left, to the bottom of the upstairs banister at the upper right. This is my second attempt after someone who works in the building to the upper right cut it off the banister as if it was not obvious that someone meticulously trained it.

2. Now, decorations for the summer involve fake ivy stapled to half century old wooden pillars. This is near both the grapevine and walls that we needed to remove real ivy from.

3. Is this some sort of insect repellent? Which way is ‘that’? Are fake flowers effective?

4. Ficus microcarpa ‘Nitida’ makes a great hedge. This is a picture of a picture of such a hedge, sideways, on a wall. Up is right. Down is left. It is effective but needs no shearing.

5. This is all sorts of wrong! The small sign to the lower right has never been so relevant. Someone who was hired for weed whacking whacked all the Canna here, as well as a few Clematis to the right. Weeds are now growing faster than the Canna. To compensate for the lack of bloom, fake roses were installed. It gets weirder. The fake roses glow at night.

6. Chorisia speciosa nearby seems like it really should be the worst occupational hazard.

This is the link for Six on Saturday, for anyone else who would like to participate: https://thepropagatorblog.wordpress.com/2017/09/18/six-on-saturday-a-participant-guide/

Broom

Most broom is an aggressively invasive weed.

French, Spanish, Mediterranean and common brooms are the most familiar of the brooms because they are among the most invasive and aggressive of weeds in rural areas. Many other brooms (that are primarily within the two genera of Cytisus and Genista) that are tame enough for home gardens unfortunately share the bad reputation, even though many of the modern varieties are hybrids that do not even produce viable seed. Once established in sunny, well drained sites, brooms are not at all demanding.

Broom bloom is almost always bright yellow, although a few varieties of broom have white, pink, pale orange or even purplish flowers. Most have finely textured evergreen foliage. Others are foliated only for a short time in spring before they drop their foliage in early summer to reveal distinctive bare green stems. The most popular modern varieties are fluffy, low shrubs less than four feet tall. Some of the more traditional types get taller than ten feet.

Irrigation Must Not Be Excessive

Too much water can be a problem.

Remember when the Brady Bunch went to the Grand Canyon? Mrs. Brady read aloud from a brochure about how the Grand Canyon was formed by erosion of the Colorado River. Peter then commented, “Wow! No wonder you tell us not to leave the water running.” Too much watering in the garden certainly will not cause a canyon to form, but can cause all sorts of other big problems.

Roots rot if the the soil is constantly too wet. If the soil stays saturated, roots suffocate from the lack of aeration. Trees that survive saturation of deeper soil strata will disperse their roots shallowly near the less saturated surface, and will consequently be unstable. Besides, excessive watering is wasteful.

There are too many variables, such as exposure, drainage, humidity and temperature, to prescribe irrigation schedules that work for every site. Just remember that most plants like the soil to drain enough for the surface of the soil to at least look somewhat dry before getting watered again. Moss on the surface is an indication that things are too wet. Plants that like more water, like azaleas, rhododendrons, fuchsias, ferns and impatiens, do not mind if the soil stays somewhat damp, but only if the soil is porous and drains enough to also be aerated.

The most drought tolerant plants, which are generally also the most sensitive to excessive irrigation, ironically like to be watered somewhat regularly for the first few months after getting planted. This is because they are so reliant on well dispersed root systems. They need less, if any, watering once their roots get dispersed.

Watering should be done in the morning so that plants can soak in the water during the day, and the area can dry somewhat before the following evening. It is also better to water less frequently and a bit more generously than to water too frequently. This allows time for drainage and promotes deeper rooting. Fungal organisms associated with rot and foliar diseases proliferate overnight if the ground is damp at the surface and the air is humid.

Except for the few plants that like humidity, and those that need to be rinsed of aphid and honeydew, there is no need to wast water on foliage where it is simply lost to evaporation. Water should be applied to the soil where it is needed.

Horridculture – eBay

Oh my! This old article reminds me that, just prior to reblogging it, I purchased a few Musa acuminata pups on EBay!

tonytomeo's avatarTony Tomeo

P00624 I certainly got good deals on these recent acquisitions. However, I have no idea what I will do with them.

It is such a bad habit! Even if I spend no money, I spend too much time perusing what I could spend a little bit of spare cash on. On rare occasion, I actually do spend a little bit on something that I can get a good deal on, not because I actually have any use for it, but merely because I got a good deal on it, . . . or because I believe that I may not be able to find it for sale again later.

Now, I have more than two hundred seed for Pygmy date palm, Phoenix roebelenii. They certainly were inexpensive, costing less than a few dollars. Most of the expense was for postage. It really was a good deal. However, I have no…

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Sword Fern

Sword fern can migrate surprisingly vigorously.

It seems to be related to Boston fern because it is. Sword fern, Nephrolepis cordifolia, is a less refined species of the same genus. It does not want to live as a docile houseplant. Instead, it prefers room to grow and spread in the garden. It has potential to spread a bit vigorously though. Containment protects adjacent smaller perennials or bedding plants.

Sword fern foliage is the same light and slightly yellowish green as that of Boston fern. It generally stands more upright though. Rather than hang softly from planters, like Boston fern does, it leans outwardly. Its pinnately compound fronds can grow almost two and a half feet tall. Pinnae might be about an inch and a half long, with a slightly grainy texture.

Sword fern is not particularly discriminating about exposure, moisture or soil. It can cling to trunks of Canary Island date palms and infest their canopies epiphytically. Sword fern is greenest with regular irrigation and shelter from harsh exposure though. Its evergreen foliage can discolor and partially defoliate when distressed. Grooming might be tedious. Healthy colonies may hide their old foliage.

Fern Foliage Is Softly Bold

Ferns provide distinctive and bold foliage.

Ferns are foliar perennials. They provide neither floral color nor fragrance. They provide neither fruits nor vegetables. With few exceptions, they provide no shade. The very few that are deciduous are not impressively colorful for autumn here. Ferns can not grow as hedges. Nor can they become lawns. They exclusively provide distinctive fern foliage.

They do so splendidly! Most produce the sort of distinctively lacy fern foliage that ferns are famous for. Some exhibit even more finely textured and airy foliage. A few exhibit a relatively coarse foliar texture. Almost all ferns are rich and deep green. Some are lighter or slightly yellowish green. A rare few are silvery gray, or display an intricate silver lining.

Almost all ferns that are popular within home gardens are evergreen. Most benefit from occasional grooming to remove deteriorating old foliage. Some produce new growth on top as old growth lies down below. Several grow most lushly after removal of all foliage prior to their growing season. A few deciduous types of fern defoliate for their dormancy.

Ferns do not develop stems or trunks like most other vegetation does. They sprawl over the ground with rhizomes, which are fleshy stems. Rhizomes grow only in length, but not in diameter. Tree ferns grow upward as their rhizomes deteriorate below. Roots that grow through the deteriorating rhizomes form what seems to be trunks. Fern roots are fibrous.

Leaves of ferns are fronds. Such fronds of most ferns divide into pinnae, which are like smaller leaflets. Pinnae of some ferns divide into even smaller pinnae. Rachi are central stalks that suspend the pinnae within individual fronds. Ferns reproduce by spores, so lack flowers. Most ferns propagate efficiently by division of preferably dormant rhizomes.

Because of their fibrous root systems, ferns are complaisant to confinement within pots. Most ferns are naturally understory vegetation, so are innately tolerant of partial shade. Ferns that tolerate aridity as well as shade and confinement are delightful houseplants. Most ferns are very tolerant of relocation, although some must replace foliage to adapt.