Horridculture – Aquatic Vegetation

Watercress, Nasturtium officinale

Watercress, Nasturtium officinale, seems to be proliferating a bit more in the drainage pond than it did last year. It is difficult to compare, since I was not concerned about it enough to monitor it last year. I am likely noticing it more now because the duckweed, Lemna minor, deteriorated slower than it did last year, which maintained my interest in such infesting aquatic vegetation. I have been monitoring the cattail, Typha latifolia, also. Although none of these species are exotic, I do not want any of them to proliferate so much that they obscure the pond that they inhabit. That has been a problem with duckweed as long as the pond has contained water. I am aware that cattail also has potential to proliferate aggressively, although I believe that such proliferation would be easier to mitigate. I really do not know how watercress behaves, though. I can not remember ever seeing a pond anywhere completely overwhelmed by it. I doubt that, even if it does proliferate aggressively, that it would be as difficult to contend with as duckweed is. Perhaps it would compete with duckweed! Goodness; I never intended to get so involved with aquatic vegetation. It is not exactly the sort of vegetation that inhabits ‘land’scapes. Yet, the drainage pond is a feature of the landscapes here. We maintain the willows, cottonwoods, sycamores, oaks and Landon’s tree around it, so obviously, must maintain the aquatic vegetation within it as well. In that regard, I would prefer to grow a few more ornamental but less aggressive aquatic species, such as water lilies. Unfortunately, the few water lilies that we tried were tropical species that seemed to succumb to cool winter weather and overwhelming duckweed. I should try some native water lilies, but they might be a bit too prolific.

Vines Are Aggressive

Grapevines need to be tamed.

So many of the vines that we enjoy in our gardens might not be so appealing if we knew how they behave in the wild. Many of their characteristics that are often practical in garden situations are detrimental to neighboring plants in natural settings. If they can get away with it, vines can be just as brutal in our own gardens.

Creeping fig is perhaps the most brutally aggressive of vines. Like many other vines, it exploits trees for support. While it reaches the top of the trees, it wraps the tree trunks with a grafted network of stems that expands as it grows, literally strangling the trees that gave it support. By the time the supporting tree trunks decay, the creeping fig has developed its own self supporting trunk. Algerian and English ivies can do the same.

Fortunately, these vines rarely get such opportunities in garden situations. Nonetheless, they need to be kept out of trees that might otherwise get overwhelmed. Since they attach to the surfaces that they climb by aerial roots, they should not be allowed to climb onto painted surfaces, stucco, or anything else that they can damage.

Boston ivy supports itself by holdfast disks, which it leaves on everything that it gets a hold of. If the vines get removed to paint a wall, the disks remain. Like creeping fig and the ivies, Boston ivy, should therefore only be allowed to climb surfaces that are not likely to be damaged by its climbing techniques. Creeping fig and Boston ivy both happen to be quite practical for freeway infrastructure and sound-walls, but are difficult to accommodate in tame urban landscapes.       

Wisteria is another very aggressive vine that can overwhelm small trees and shrubbery, but lacks aerial roots. It instead climbs by twining stems, which are safer for painted surfaces, but can constrict and crush light trellises, wooden shingles, lattice or anything else that that wrap around. It is certainly worth growing, but needs adequate support.

Bougainvillea and climbing roses do not climb on their own, but instead produce ‘scrambling’ canes that shoot upward and then lean onto their surroundings for support. If grown as vines, they need to be fastened to their support. If not pruned back occasionally, they can get quite overgrown and shrubby. Most varieties that are popular now fortunately stay small and manageable.

Honeysuckle, potato vine, blue dawn flower, evergreen clematis, star jasmine and the various trumpet vines are more manageable, but are still moderately aggressive. Carolina Jessamine, lilac vine, mandevilla, and passion vine are among the more docile of vines, only outdone by the annual vines like annual morning glory and climbing nasturtium.   

Docile Wisteria

Wisteria frutescens, American wisteria

Chinese wisteria is an aggressive vine! A few that have gone wild near here have climbed high into redwoods, or spread over large areas of forest, or both. Some may have been planted intentionally, and then been abandoned. Some may be feral. Japanese wisteria may have potential to do the same, and perhaps some have already done so without being recognized as a different species from more common Chinese wisteria. Both species are spectacular while blooming within refined landscapes, but can be difficult to accommodate within the often neglected or partially forested landscapes here. That is why I am so pleased to try the much more docile American wisteria, Wisteria frutescens. I do not remember the name of this particular cultivar, but it blooms with bluish lavender floral color that is comparable to that of the more traditional Chinese wisteria. Like Chinese wisteria, other cultivars can bloom white or more purplish, and supposedly even pink, although I have yet to see even pictures of it blooming pink. It is not as spectacular, primarily because it is so much more docile, so does not grow nearly as large. Also, the floral trusses are relatively short, stout, and cylindrical in form, so protrude more rigidly outward like bottlebrush bloom, rather than more pendulously like the familiarly elongated and conical floral trusses of Chinese wisteria, or the more elegantly elongated floral trusses of Japanese wisteria. Kentucky wisteria, Wisteria macrostachya, is supposedly quite similar, but blooms later with more bluish color, rather than lavender. ‘Clara Mack’ is a cultivar that blooms white. After I see how American wisteria performs here, with its traditional wisteria colored bloom, I would also like to see how ‘Clara Mack’ Kentucky wisteria performs here. It could be a delightfully docile alternative to traditional Chinese wisteria for the White Garden.

Broom

Most broom is an aggressively invasive weed.

French, Spanish, Mediterranean and common brooms are the most familiar of the brooms because they are among the most invasive and aggressive of weeds in rural areas. Many other brooms (that are primarily within the two genera of Cytisus and Genista) that are tame enough for home gardens unfortunately share the bad reputation, even though many of the modern varieties are hybrids that do not even produce viable seed. Once established in sunny, well drained sites, brooms are not at all demanding.

Broom bloom is almost always bright yellow, although a few varieties of broom have white, pink, pale orange or even purplish flowers. Most have finely textured evergreen foliage. Others are foliated only for a short time in spring before they drop their foliage in early summer to reveal distinctive bare green stems. The most popular modern varieties are fluffy, low shrubs less than four feet tall. Some of the more traditional types get taller than ten feet.

Silver Wattle

Silver wattle is a magnificent weed.

Almost everyone on the West Coast of California has encountered silver wattle, Acacia dealbata. Some of us know how resilient it is to most methods of eradication. The more fortunate enjoy its magnificently bloom from a distance. It is almost never planted intentionally. It is an aggressively naturalized exotic species. Most grows wild near roadside ditches. Some invades home gardens.

The profuse and bright yellow bloom of silver wattle is spectacular while most deciduous trees remain bare late in winter. Big and billowy trusses of smaller round floral structures obscure most of their slightly grayish foliage. The many individual staminate flowers within this impressive bloom are actually minute. Their hearty floral fragrance is appealing to some, but objectionable to others.

Silver wattle lives fast and dies young. Some trees are so vigorous while young that they are unable to support their own weight. Without appropriate pruning, they simply fall over. Even stable and structurally sound trees deteriorate after about thirty years. Few survive for fifty. They seed prolifically though! Mature trees can get forty feet tall. The finely textured foliage is bipinnately compound.

Horridculture – Clinging Vines

P91113Ivy often climbs into trees, buildings and all sorts of other situations where it becomes problematic. It might have been planted intentionally. It might have grown from seed left by birds. When it gets into trouble, we can easily blame it on the ivy. Even that which was planted was intended to be mere ground cover. It only climbs out of control because that is what ivy does.

BAD IVY!!!

This Boston ivy that . . . ‘someone’ planted almost a year ago was actually expected to climb. That is what Boston ivy does. Even if it would be willing to grow as a ground cover, it would not work well as such because it is deciduous. As a climber, it covers freeway sound walls and any associated graffiti with vibrant green foliage that turns fiery orange and red this time of year.

The problem with it is that there are not many practical applications for it. Yes, it does well on freeway sound walls. It also does well on concrete parking structures, where it can not reach painted or wooden surfaces. There are a few unpainted reinforced concrete building out there that it would work nicely on, as long as it gets trimmed around windows, doorways and roofs.

It has no business on painted wooden surfaces, or even stucco. It clings with these weird ‘suction discs’ that never let go! (They do not really use suction, but an adhesive instead.) You can see a few to the right in this picture below. When vines get pruned back every few years, the suction discs remain attached. Although not a problem for concrete, they promote rot in wood.P91113+

What concerns me with the Boston ivy in these pictures is that it grew to the top of the pillars that they were planted on in less than a year. Even if they get pruned down this winter, they will grow farther next year, and will reach the wooden bridge above. It will be a lot of work to keep them pruned back from the bridge.

As you can see I the picture below, Boston ivy is quite pretty on the concrete. Fall color is delayed this year. P91113++

Red Willow

P91108It is almost never planted in home gardens, but the native red willow, Salix laevigata, has a sneaky way of getting where it wants to be. The minute seeds go wherever the wind blows them. Because it is a riparian tree, red willow prefers well watered spots. If not detected and pulled up in the first year, it can grow rather aggressively, and overwhelm more desirable plants, although the somewhat sparse canopy makes only moderate shade.

With a bit of grooming, red willow can be a handsomely asymmetrical tree, with upright branch structure. However, even the healthiest trees rarely get more than thirty feet tall, or much more than forty years old. The leaves are a bit shorter and wider than those of the more familiar weeping willow, and do not color as well in autumn. There are actually a few other native willows that are also commonly know as red willow. Some are quite similar, while others are very different.P91108+

Cortaderia jubata

P90908It is known by a few different common names, including ‘Andean pampas grass’, ‘purple pampas grass’, and simply ‘pampas grass’. ‘Andean pampas grass’ sounds almost like an oxymoron, since the Andes Mountains are in a separate region to the west of the pampas region of Uruguay and eastern Argentina. ‘Purple pampas grass’ is even sillier, since it is devoid of any purple.

I know it simply as ‘papas grass’. That is just how I learned it. The problem with this common name is that it is the same common name of Cortaderia selloana and its cultivars, which is a distinct species that is, on rare occasion, planted intentionally in landscapes. Cortaderia jubata is one of the most aggressively invasive of exotic species on the West Coast, so is not planted.P90908+

Cortaderia selloana is safe to plant because it is ‘supposedly’ sterile, so can not naturalize. Technically though, it is not really sterile, but merely exclusively female, without male flower parts for pollination. It reproduces by apomixis, which is a fancy way of saying that it produces viable seed without pollination. No one has bothered to explain why that makes it any less invasive.

Cortaderia jubata reproduces by apomixis too, but makes much more of problem with it. It is very prolific with its unpollinated seed! To make matters worse, it will hybridize freely with Cortaderia selloana if it gets the chance. How does that even work?! Pollen is needed for that sort of hanky panky! Nonetheless, the hybrids are almost as aggressive as Cortadera jubata is!P90908++

I just don’t trust any of them. Cortaderia selloana cultivars can work well in large landscapes in urban areas, where they can not escape into the wild. For rural or suburban landscapes that are near wildlands, there are plenty of other less invasive options.P90908+++

Bad Picture Of Good Berries

B90803KHimalayan blackberry is to cane berries what blue gum is to eucalypti. It is what gives all cane berries a bad reputation, and is why so few of us want to grow them. Himalayan blackberry grows as an extremely vigorous weeds, extending sharply thorny canes over anything within reach. When the canes are removed, the tough roots are extremely difficult to remove and kill.

If ignored, the canes ‘leap’, which means that they develop roots where they arch back downward to touch the ground. From there, they grow into new plants that extend new canes in all directions, to start the process all over again. (‘Leaping’ is like ‘layering’, which involves the development of roots where stems ‘lay’ on the ground.) Their seed gets where their canes do not.

The thorns are ‘prickles’, which really is a technical term for sharply pointed distensions of bark or epidermis. They are more like stout prickles of rose canes than the more finely textured prickles of garden varieties of cane berries. They are rigid, extremely sharp, and curved inward to snag victims on their way out; so are seriously wicked and potentially dangerous to handle.

Harvesting berries from second year canes is not easy. Most are out of reach within bramble thickets. Because they ripen through a long season, they must be harvested repeatedly, as those that were unripe during a previous harvest finish. This is why there are black, red and green berries in the same picture. The berries are small and variable, with good years and bad years.

This happens to be a good year. The thorny truss of a few small berries in the picture may not look like much; but there are plenty of them. The berries are quite richly flavored too. Those who have the patience to collect them will get some good jam or jelly out of the deal.

Horridculture – Ivy League

P90306English ivy, Hedera helix, is probably the nastiest and most aggressively invasive exotic species that I work with. It climbs high into redwood trees and overwhelms understory plants (that live below the trees). It invades many of the landscapes, and worst of all, it climbs building where it ruins paint and causes rot. It grows faster than we can keep up with it.

English ivy is actually a nice ground cover plant for refined landscapes. I grew it at my home in town. Contrary to popular belief, it does not root into and parasitize the trees that it climbs. Actually, it rarely overwhelms and shades out large trees. It prefers to keep them alive for support, from which it disperses its seed. However, it does promote decay in the trunks that it climbs, particularly where it retains moisture at ground level. Native trees are not accustomed to that.

We try to remove as much English ivy at work as possible, which includes removing it from trees and buildings. So far, with a few exceptions of small bits of ivy that broke off high in the trees that it climbed, I have been able to remove all ivy from the trees and walls that I have worked on.

Others were not so fortunate. When quick and efficient removal of ivy from the bases of as many mature trees as possible is the priority, ivy is more often severed down low, and left to die on the trunks of the infested trees. It looks shabby to say the least, and takes many years to deteriorate and fall away. In the picture above, dead ivy that was severed within the past few years is already being replaced by new ivy, which will also need to be severed.

The same technique happens with ivy on buildings. It gets cut at the foundations, but left on the walls to shrivel and turn brown. The dead ivy in the picture below was reaching upstairs eaves when it was severed, and remains there a few years later.

What annoys me so much about this technique is that it does not take much extra effort or time to tug quite most of the lower ivy from trees and walls. For most situations, all ivy can be dislodged, although tiny aerial roots remain. It is much easier to dislodge while fresh than after it is dried and crispy.P90306+