Out with the new, in with the old

Canna ‘Cannova Mango’

Canna ‘Cannova Mango’ is a relatively recent introduction to the landscapes here. I inadvertently brought it back from Southern California about two and a half years ago, without realizing that it is exactly the sort of modern cultivar that I am not at all keen on. It is new. It is improved. It blooms with a strange but trendy color. The problem is that it performs too well to not be an asset to the landscapes. Because it is so short and compact, it starts blooming early, while old fashioned Canna are still only foliar. Because it replaces older stalks with newer stalks so efficiently, it is rarely without bloom until frost. Other cultivars of the series bloom yellow, lemon (which is implied to be distinct from yellow), orange shades (?), red golden flame (?!), rose, scarlet with bronze foliage or orange with bronze foliage. The tallest are less than five feet tall. Regardless of my disdain for modern cultivars, I do not doubt that all of them perform as impressively as ‘Cannova Mango’. Nonetheless, I prefer the older and formerly common sort. A relatively compact cultivar that stays less than about four feet tall with simple green foliage and billowy but simple red bloom has been relocated through a few landscapes here since the early 1980s. Although not many rhizomes survive, I intend to grow more of it, even if not so much within the landscapes at work. Its bloom begins a bit later, and is neither as profuse nor as continuous as that of ‘Cannova Mango’, but it has history here. Besides, its more relaxed foliar texture and bloom somehow seem to be more compatible with the surrounding forested setting than the almost too refined modern cultivars, with their perfectly compact form, overly profuse bloom, and strangely modern floral color.

Unidentified old fashioned red Canna with green foliage.

Smokebush

Smokebush bloom is not particularly flowery.

Mundane floral color and a lack of floral fragrance are no problems. Smokebush, Cotinus coggygria, compensates. Its uninteresting bloom reveals strikingly fluffy floral trusses for summer. These trusses eventually deteriorate to reveal exquisitely vibrant foliar color for autumn. This foliar color eventually deteriorates to reveal sculptural trunk form for winter.

Foliar color through spring and summer is likely the most striking attribute of smokebush. Most are boldly rich purplish bronze. Some are strikingly vivid yellowish chartreuse. The two extremes contrast splendidly. Old fashioned olive drab is now rare. Foliar color does not fade much. However, it suddenly transitions to fiery orange and red color for autumn.

Old fashioned olive drab smokebush can grow a bit more than fifteen feet high and wide. Because it does not grow fast, only old specimens are so large. Most bronze cultivars do not get much higher than first floor eaves here. Chartreuse cultivars are likely to stay a bit shorter. Healthy young specimens might get wobbly if their canopies outgrow their roots. Aggressive pruning improves form and stability, and can also enhance foliar color.

Six on Saturday: ‘Variegata’

‘Variegata’ is a common designation for the first variegated cultivar of a species. Fancier or later distinct cultivars get fancier cultivar designations. The first three of these six are variegated, but lack a cultivar designation as if variegation is normal for the species. The fourth seems to have a few cultivars with the same designation. The last two could be the only variegated cultivars of their respective species. I can not remember ever seeing any of the first four without variegation. The fifth is still rare. The sixth is now more popular than unvariegated.

1. Hypoestes phyllostachya, polka dot plant lacks cultivar designation. This was labeled merely as white. Variation of foliar variegation indicate that they were grown from seed.

2. Hypoestes phyllostachya, polka dot plant is also pink, which is exactly how this other half of them was labeled, likewise without cultivar designation. ‘Variegata’ would suit it.

3. Hypoestes phyllostachya, polka dot plant variegation is variable. Some specimens are more green than others. At least two of the pink sort are variegated with red such as this.

4. Aucuba japonica ‘Variegata’, gold dust plant is about as variable as polka dot plant is, but is known by the same cultivar name. Of course, modern cultivars have other names.

5. Tupidanthus calyptratus ‘Variegata’, mallet flower was not planned. I have wanted to grow the typical unvariegated type since I met it in 1986. Brent sent me this raggedy old but rare variegated specimen so that I would grow more for him. I am learning to like it.

6. Solandra maxima ‘Variegata’, cup of gold vine was also unplanned. I grew the typical unvariegated type to the left first. Then, Brent got me the variegated cultivar to the right. I am getting to like it because it is more docile. The unvariegated sort grows like a weed!

This is the link for Six on Saturday, for anyone else who would like to participate: https://thepropagatorblog.wordpress.com/2017/09/18/six-on-saturday-a-participant-guide/

Aromatic Foliage Is An Acquired Taste

Foliar aromas and flavors that are useful for culinary application deters many grazing animals.

The infinite variety of colors, fragrances, flavors and even textures that plants use to solicit the help of wildlife is amazing. Flower color, fragrance and sometimes texture are customized to attract very specific pollinators, and guide them to where they are needed. Many flowers direct and reward their pollinators with flavorful nectar. Fruit color, flavor and aroma attract specific animals to take the fruit, and disperse the seeds within. There is no end to what plants will do for their friends. We are merely secondary beneficiaries.

It is ironic that we also enjoy aromas and flavors that are instead designed to be objectionable to plundering herbivores. For example, the appealingly pungent foliage of most herbs is actually intended to repel grazing animals or feeding insects. We not only exploit these herbs for culinary purposes, but also to add their aromas to our gardens.

Lavender, mint, rosemary and the various thymes and sages are the most popular herbs that are attractive both aromatically and visually, whether or not we actually use them in the kitchen. Rosemary is actually a common and practical ground cover for large areas. Thyme is a good ground cover for smaller areas, and stays low enough to be grown around stepping stones where it becomes even more aromatic if stepped on.

Grecian or sweet bay is another herb that actually grows into a sizeable but practical evergreen tree. The native bay laurel is a bit too large to be as practical where space is limited, but is even more pungent. Although generally not useful as herbs, the various cypresses, pines, cedars and eucalypti are appreciated for their aromatic foliage as well. Incense cedar is particularly pungent.

Two of my favorite types of plants, junipers and geraniums, are among the more common aromatic shrubbery. Although actually considered to be perennials, zonal, ivy and of course, scented geraniums, can be used as small shrubbery or small scale ground cover. Junipers of course, range from ground covers to shrubbery to small trees.

Rockrose, breath of Heaven (Coleonema spp.) and myrtle are all quite aromatic. The old fashioned myrtle that gets considerably larger than the modern compact variety is even more aromatic. Lantana is an aromatic ground cover or low mounding shrubbery.

The aromas of aromatic foliage are strongest as fresh new foliage emerges in spring, and particularly after spring rain. Some people like to put aromatic plants where they will be slightly in the way, since foliage relinquishes its aroma more readily when slapped with a gate, bumped, or otherwise disturbed. 

Going Bananas!

‘Double Mahoi’ is not even a fraction of a single yet, but can grow fast.

This is not banana territory. The soil is good, and water is readily available; but the climate is a limiting factor. The weather does not get very warm for very long. When it rarely gets almost unpleasantly warm during the day, it generally gets tolerably cooler overnight. Bananas are none too keen on such comfortable weather. They want sustained warmth, with less fluctuation of temperature between night and day.

This is precisely why I should not have acquired as many as fourteen cultivars of banana. Some may never do more than generate appealingly lush foliage here. Those that produce fruit will unlikely produce fruit that is much more than marginally palatable. One of the cultivars is the oem, which is the largest banana ‘tree’ in the World. I have NO idea of how to manage it. ‘Mekong Giant’ also grows quite large and heavy. Two cultivars are unidentified, so could possibly be copies of others. ‘Kokopo Patupi’ may not have survived last winter, as it has not begun to regenerate yet. Four other cultivars were given away, but then generated pups that are now returning! I do not remember how many cultivars are here now, but I know that there are too many.

Oem is resuming growth faster than the others, but with small leaves from within pseudostems that produced larger leaves last year. ‘Double Mahoi’ is likewise regenerating dinky and pale leaves that are actually dinkier than those that emerged earlier from a shriveled carcass of a dinky pup that got frosted last winter.

I want all of the cultivars of banana to survive and thrive, but I should have planned for them better. Now, I should plan to find homes for most of them instead. Even if I could manage them all, I can not justify doing so.

Oem is the biggest banana ‘tree’ in the World!

Mound Lily

Mound lily exhibits stiffly spiny foliage.

Yucca is a genus of about fifty species. However, any two can hybridize. They are more like fifty or so varieties of one species. They maintain distinction by blooming at different times or inhabiting different ranges. Mound lily, Yucca gloriosa, is one of these species. However, it is technically a perpetuating hybrid of Yucca filamentosa and Yucca aloifolia.

Mound lily develops symmetrical foliar rosettes that are only a few feet tall. Stout trunks that develop below can very slowly elevate these rosettes about eight feet. Elegantly tall floral stalks can stand as high as five feet higher. The stiff and evergreen leaves are one to two feet long, and about two inches wide. Their terminal foliar spines are very sharp.

The most popular cultivar of mound lily is variegated with creamy white stripes. Tristis is a variety with more flexible and arching foliage. It formerly classified as a distinct species of Yucca recurvifolia. All yuccas bloom with small, pendulous and creamy white flowers. Such flowers may exhibit a pale purplish or faint pale greenish blush.

New Zealand Flax

New Zealand flax provides colorful foliage.

Old fashioned New Zealand flax, Phormium tenax, is becoming increasingly uncommon. It is simply too big for compact modern gardens. Even without upright stems, its vertical and olive drab leaves can reach ten feet tall. They can flare outwardly as wide as fifteen feet. One cultivar is bronzed. Another is variegated. Both are somewhat more compact.

Most modern cultivars are either Phormium colensoi or hybrids of the two species. They are more compact and more colorful. ‘Jack Spratt’ grows only about a foot and a half tall, with chocolaty bronze foliage. ‘Yellow Wave’ gets about three or four feet tall with arching foliage with yellow stripes. Others are bronzed or striped with yellow, brown, red or pink.

New Zealand flax is remarkably resilient. The evergreen foliage is so very fibrous that it can be difficult to cut. Tough rhizomes that migrate where they are not wanted propagate easily by division. Some cultivars can revert by generating less colorful mutant growth. Since it is greener, such growth is more vigorous. It can overwhelm and displace more colorful foliage.

Dusty Miller

Dusty miller is strikingly silvery gray.

Of the few unrelated species of dusty miller, the most common here is Senecio cineraria. Like other dusty miller species, its foliage is remarkably silvery white. Its foliar tomentum can be so thick that it resembles fine felt. Individual leaves exhibit intricately deep lobes. They are about two to five inches long, but are smaller and simpler on upper floral stems.

Dusty miller blooms with floppy clusters of tiny but bright yellow daisy flowers. However, because the colorful foliage is more appealing, bloom might not be a priority. Removal of floral stems prior to bloom promotes denser and neater foliar texture. Within more severe climates, dusty miller is a warm season annual. It is a resilient shrubby perennial locally.

Mature specimens of dusty miller can get a bit taller than three feet with bloom. They are shorter with grooming and pruning to maintain compact form without bloom. If necessary, they are conducive to pruning to limit their height to about a foot and a half. This species tolerates a bit more partial shade than other dusty miller. Ideally, it prefers sunny warmth.

Colorful Foliage Without Colorful Bloom

Barberry can be bronze or gold.

Floral color gets most of the attention within home gardens through spring. It should. It is the most copious and most colorful of color. Though, it is not the only color. A few species that provide floral color, and more that do not, provide colorful foliage. Similar to Olympic Medals, this foliage can be bronze, silver or gold, or variants of such. Some rivals bloom.

Colorful foliage is not the same as foliar color of deciduous foliage as it sheds in autumn. Much is evergreen. Most is most colorful while it grows through warming spring weather. Actually, most fades through summer, and some becomes simpler dark green by autumn. Afterward though, some deciduous colorful foliage also develops foliar color for autumn.

The most popular colorful foliage is variegated. This means it is partly green with stripes, margins, blotches, spots, patterns or blushes. The color range of such variegations is as variable as its pattern range. Some foliage is variegated with a few vividly distinct colors. New Zealand flax, coleus, croton and caladium are some of the more familiar examples.

Of all unvariegated colorful foliage, bronze foliage is the most variable. It includes foliage that is brown as well as reddish, purplish or perhaps dark orangish. Some emerges pink before developing a darker shade. New photinia foliage is reddish bronze only briefly as it matures as dark green. Purple leaf plum and smoke tree are famously purplish bronze.

Silver foliage is the most useful colorful foliage in the wild. At high elevations, where sun exposure is harshly intense, it is selectively reflective. It absorbs sufficient sunlight for its photosynthesis, but not enough to succumb to scald. It is how Arizona cypress and some agaves survive in the high desert. Such foliage may be gray, pallid blue or almost white.

Many species with gold foliage are the same as those with bronze foliage. New Zealand flax, smoke tree, barberry and elderberry can be either bronze or gold. Since gold foliage contains less chlorophyll than green foliage, it is a bit less vigorous. Unlike silver foliage, it serves no natural practical purpose. It survives in landscapes for visual appeal.

Snail Season

Very fresh escargot

The problem with escargot that is too fresh is that it grazes – a lot! Snails, as well as slugs, lurk in our own gardens, waiting for nightfall, or sometimes not, to emerge and devour any tender plant parts that appeal to them. They tear apart large leaves and fresh flowers, and eat seedlings completely. They are particularly problematic this time of year, while the garden is still damp, but the weather is getting warmer, and especially since there is so much fresh new vegetation for them to eat.

The most effective means of controlling these troublesome mollusks is to eliminate their hiding places where they camp out during the day. This involves pulling large weeds and removing any debris that may be laying about the garden. Leave no stone unturned. Of course, this is not so easy in lush gardens with abundant or overgrown foliage, and features like large pots and statuary. In such situations, cunning and diligence are in order.

I have found bare copper wire wrapped around pots, planters and tree trunks to be an effective deterrent. Copper tape sold in nurseries and garden centers is probably better since it is wider. It can be self adhesive, or stapled to wooden containers or shelves. Snails can get past the copper though, on any plant parts than hang over where the snails can reach. Wire should be removed from tree trunks after ‘snail season’, or wrapped in a manner that accommodates for trunk expansion. For example, an ‘S’ shaped curve in the circling wire set flatly against a tree trunk provides enough slack for a bit of expansion.

It is also good to hunt snails as they come out after dark or before they go in for the morning. They are neither elusive nor fast. They are merely objectionable to handle. Laying a piece of cardboard or similar material out for them to hide under, and then surprising them during the day is a sneaky trick, but effective. Putting small puddles of beer out in shallow containers, such as saucers for potted plants, is more work, but not often as effective. It is sneakier though, since it entices the snails to stay out drinking until they die in the sunlight.