Posted on by tonytomeo

Frost Protection

For many species, frost damage is not as bad as it looks.

            My colleague in the Los Angeles area still sends me seeds for all sorts of strange plants that I probably should not be growing in my less climactically temperate garden, making it difficult to conform to the primary rule of frost protection: ‘Select plants that are appropriate to the particular climate.’ No matter how often I remind my clients of this rule, I really do not want to abide by it. There are just too many interesting but inappropriate plants.

            So the next option is to grow frost sensitive plants in containers that can be moved to sheltered areas prior to frost. That worked while I had an extra parking space in the carport and some room under the porch for giant bird-of-Paradise, plumeria, philodendrons and such. Eventually though, some of these plants get too large to be contained; and I really do not want to keep pruning them back. Besides, I prefer to grow things in the ground.

            The third option is to put sensitive plants in spots that are naturally warmer, or where they are sheltered below the canopies of large evergreen trees, lath or wide eaves. Just remember that plants under eaves are also sheltered from rain, so may need to be watered occasionally through winter. Steep slopes are not quite as cold because cold air drains off. However, flat areas below slopes get colder as they catch cold air that drains from uphill. South facing exposures are of course warmer than northern exposures.

            I know probably better than most that there are always some plants that are not ‘appropriate to the particular climate’, that I do not want to grow in pots, and that prefer to be out in exposed parts of the garden. For example, bougainvilleas are somewhat tender, have sensitive roots that do not like to be confined, and really want to be out in the open to take advantage of warming sunshine during summer. Such plants in colder areas will either need to be protected, or will get damaged by frost.

            Burlap suspended above the foliage by stakes is typically enough to protect sensitive plants from frost. I have used old towels and linens where my neighbors can not see. Plastic sheeting is also effective, but should be removed before sunlight warms the air too much underneath. Paper grocery bags or cardboard boxes are enough for small plants.

            I actually allow some of my larger plants that would be difficult to cover to get damaged by frost, and then prune out the damage later. If they are too big to cover easily, they are probably big enough to survive frost. Damaged stems should be left until the end of winter both to insulate stems below, and also because early pruning stimulates new growth that is even more sensitive to frost. 

Posted on by tonytomeo · 2 Comments

Frost Is Not An Enemy

Among canna, frost damage is harmless.

Rain was one clue. Cooler weather is another. It is now so late into autumn that it will be winter soon. Every regional climate experiences some degree of chill. Some, particularly to the north, experience frost. This limits gardening in two ways. Several species prefer a bit less cool weather. Several prefer a bit more. Every species prefers a particular range.

Apple trees, for example, require vernalization, which is a specific duration of chill. Some cultivars require more than others. Without it, they can not distinguish seasons, so do not know when to bloom for spring. Consequently, few cultivars of apple perform adequately within Los Angeles. However, many perform very well in the cooler climates of San Jose.

Banana trees, conversely, need no chill, and are instead set back by frost. Some tolerate a bit more chill than others; but ultimately, they are all tropical species. They produce fruit only within the months between frosts. Consequently, not many banana trees are notably productive within San Jose. However, they perform better in the climates of Los Angeles.

Banana trees stop growing when the weather is cooler than fifty degrees or so. That is a bit too much chill for them. However, frost does not occur until the weather is cooler than thirty-two degrees. Banana foliage can therefore be safely dormant during chilly weather. That is a range of twenty-two degrees. Different tropical species survive different ranges.

The simplest form of frost protection is to not cultivate species that are vulnerable to frost. This is, of course, a bit too restrictive for many who enjoy gardening. Instead, some grow vulnerable species in pots to move to shelter prior to frost. Some simply grow vulnerable species below the shelter of eaves or big trees. Tenting may also be effective protection.

Alternatively, some species can endure frost damage to recover during warmer weather. If possible, outer foliage that succumbs to frost should remain through winter. It insulates inner growth from subsequent damage. Besides, premature grooming can stimulate new growth that is more vulnerable. Many perennials prefer cutting back after winter anyway.

Posted on by tonytomeo

Trees May Benefit From Winterization

Many trees need no winterization pruning.

Arboriculture becomes more of a concern at this time of year. Although winter is a month away, the weather is becoming increasingly stormy. Wind and rain can dislodge limbs or destabilize entire trees. Some trees may benefit from winterization prior to even stormier weather in the future. Some may need the specialized services of professional arborists.

Dormant pruning of deciduous fruit trees is, incidentally, not the same as winterization. It happens later in winter, after the subjects have been dormant for a while longer. Besides, after proper dormant pruning last year, they should not need winterization now. However, if subjects are defoliated, they should not mind early pruning. They are already dormant.

Ironically, the trees that are more likely to require winterization are evergreen. Deciduous species perform almost all of their own winterization naturally. They defoliate to eliminate most of their resistance to wintry winds. In other words, they become more aerodynamic. Defoliation also eliminates most of the surface area to accumulate heavy water from rain.

Evergreen species are generally more resilient to wind than foliated deciduous species. However, as deciduous species defoliate, evergreen species can not. Evergreen foliage therefore becomes less aerodynamic and more vulnerable to wind. Also, it absorbs more heavy rainwater. The added weight of rainwater causes limbs to sag and perhaps break.

Rain does more than cause foliage to become heavier. It also saturates soils, which can potentially compromise root stability. The timing could not be worse, since wind typically accompanies rain. This is also more of a problem for evergreen species than deciduous species. However, some storms arrive early, and some deciduous species defoliate late.

Winterization pruning is as variable as the trees that benefit from it. Large trees will likely need specialized services that only arborists can provide. Japanese maples may require only minor clipping of stems that have extended too far. Many trees require nothing at all. Ultimately, such techniques should help limbs and trees survive eventual wintry weather.

Posted on by tonytomeo

Rain Will Increase Until Late Winter

The weather is about to change.

Defoliation is the colorful beginning. It indicates that the weather is getting progressively cooler. It then gets messy with the first rain. This is inevitable at this time of year. After all, it is late autumn. Storms will become more frequent as weather simultaneously becomes cooler. So, while gardens are getting wetter, they also take longer to dry between storms.

Ironically, vegetation uses much less moisture while it is so abundant. Deciduous foliage can not perform any evapotranspiration after it defoliates. Evergreen foliage is much less vascularly active while cool. Roots can not utilize all the moisture that autumn and winter rain provides. Soil in some areas might stay moist from now until next spring or summer.

Conversely, summery weather is innately arid and warm. That is how the Mediterranean climate here operates. Moisture is either scarce or abundant. Rain will eventually stop in spring, and then not resume until next autumn. Summer thundershowers are uncommon. Gardening could likely be easier with a bit less rain for winter, and a bit more for summer.

With more rain expected, irrigation needs seasonal adjustment. Such adjustments might need to be incremental, since weather changes incrementally. Manual irrigation might be either less frequent or less voluminous, or both. The same applies to automatic systems, which have a disabling ‘rain’ option. It turns irrigation off without modifying the schedule.

Besides necessitating modification of irrigation, rain can also be messy. It dislodges and accelerates the deterioration of defoliating deciduous foliage. It causes even formerly dry soil to become muddy. A bit too much rain can cause erosion. Cleaning up such mess is less pleasurable while the weather is wet and cool. Then, the weather gets messy again.

Rain can not postpone all gardening. Spring bulbs must get into their garden soil prior to winter chill. Dormant pruning happens later in winter, prior to spring. Fortunately though, gardening is less involved than it is during spring and summer. Maintenance of tools and sorting seed can be indoor tasks for rainy days. So is shopping online for seed, plants or garden tools.

Posted on by tonytomeo · 7 Comments

Pollen

For urban areas, the first rain of the season is typically icky. It mixes with all the crud and filth that has accumulated since the last rinsing rain of the previous spring. Damp roads smell like a mix of automotive fluids and wet tires. Asphalt roofs smell like tar. Even urban trees can initially smell like damp dust. It takes a while and a bit of rain for the crud and filth to rinse away.

This is the second rain of the season, and in a less than urban area. It does not smell objectionable, and is not notably cruddy. However, it still flows with an abundance of pollen that had not rinsed away already. Perhaps this pollen accumulated just since the previous rain, although not much has been blooming visibly at this time of year. It is impossible to say even what species dispersed so much pollen. Nonetheless, here it is, floating in the first few puddles to accumulate. Yuck!

It is no wonder that pollen is as effective at pollination as it is. It is impressively abundant and permeating. It is also no wonder that it is such a pervasive problem for those who are allergic to it.

Posted on by tonytomeo · 2 Comments

Mild Summer

Weather has been somewhat atypical.

(This article is recycled from a few years ago.)

Now that it is half way through September, it is impossible to ignore that tomatoes did not have a good season. Most of us who grow tomatoes were embarrassed by their performance until we realized that everyone else who grows them was also experiencing similar disappointing results. It was not because we did not water them properly. Nor was it because they lacked particular nutrients. They simply wanted warmer weather.

Plants that were put out early before the warm weather last spring did much better at first, but then decelerated as the weather became milder instead of warmer. Cool nights certainly did not help. Mildew, which typically slows a bit as weather becomes drier (less humid) though summer, instead continued to proliferate so that new foliage became infected almost as soon as it developed.

Earlier predictions that the weather would eventually get warm were not accurate enough for many of us who are only now getting enough tomatoes for fresh use, but not an abundance for canning, drying or freezing. There is still some time for most of the tomatoes that are on the vines now to ripen; but many will probably remain green by autumn. Some but not all of the last green tomatoes can ripen off the vine. Perhaps the only good news about all this is that there should be plenty of green tomatoes for pickling.

Sadly, tomatoes were not the only warm season vegetables to be dissatisfied with the weather. Green bean vines and bushes were generally healthy and made good beans, but did not produce very abundantly. Corn was likewise of adequate quality, but on smaller ears and less abundant. Even zucchini, which typically produces too much, was a bit subdued. Marginal vegetables that really prefer warmth, like eggplant and bell pepper, were downright disappointing.

Even if the weather gets warmer in the last days of summer, languishing tomato plants can not ketchup on production. They can be left to make a few more tomatoes, but will eventually need to get out of the way of cool season vegetables. Cabbage, kale, turnip greens, beets, radishes and all the slower growing vegetables that take their time through autumn, winter and early spring will want their space back soon. They will hopefully have a better season.

If possible, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower and some of the larger cool season vegetable plants can be plugged in amongst the finishing warm season vegetable plants. Then, by the time the finishing warm season vegetable plants need to be removed, the next phase of cool season vegetable plants is already somewhat rooted and has a head start. This process works well in small spaces with good quality soil.

The main problem with this procedure is that it prevents potentially depleted soil from getting amended and well mixed between planting. It can also be a bit awkward to get the spacing of rows, furrows or mounds of the next phase of vegetable plants to match up with the previous phase. Smaller vegetable plants that get sown directly from seed into rows, like turnip greens, carrots, beets and radishes, really prefer customized bed preparation, after the warm season vegetables have been removed.

Posted on by tonytomeo

Warming Summer Weather

Dog Days!

My great grandfather could remember more summers in Sunnyvale than anyone else. He knew how unique every summer was and continues to be. Some summers are uncomfortably hot from beginning to end. Last summer though, was the coolest in recorded history!

Warm summers are of course best for the fruits and vegetables that like warmth. Peaches, grapes, tomatoes and rhubarb in my great grandfather’s garden always got the best flavor during warm weather. Warm but not too hot weather early in summer made the best ‘Bing’ cherries on my grandmother’s tree in Santa Clara.

Although cool summers are more comfortable for dogs, cats and people, they are not quite as conducive to growing fruits and vegetables. It is still too early to know what this summer will be like, but even though it is now getting warm, the warmth is developing late. The past spring was remarkably mild, with rain lingering later than it typically does.

Consequently, some fruits and vegetables, as well as some flowers and trees, are developing slowly. Peaches may be a bit smaller than they typically are, with slightly milder flavor. Rhubarb should have good flavor because of recent warm weather, but may develop a bit late because it got a late start.

Tomatoes are perhaps expressing the most dissatisfaction with the mild weather. Even tomato plants that were put out in the garden early in spring have grown slowly, and are not nearly as productive as they typically are by the beginning of summer. Some are not yet producing!

Fortunately and unfortunately, the weather has gotten significantly warmer. This may be uncomfortable for us; but is a party for the formerly bored tomato plants. Warmth of course promotes bloom and fruit production, and enhances flavor. If they get what they need, tomato plants that seemed sickly in the past may suddenly grow like weeds.

They should waste no time making up for lost time. Even if mild weather continues into summer like it did last summer, it will still get warmer than it has been. Maturing tomato plants will want more water and fertilizer (if used) as they get larger, and the weather gets warmer.

Posted on by tonytomeo · 2 Comments

Tornado

The tornado that stripped these redwoods landed right on Target. Notice the sign to the lower left.

The weather here may seem boring to those who are acquainted with other climates. It gets neither too warm nor too cold. Rain is limited to the relatively short rainy season. Humidity is minimal. Snow is so extremely rare that I can remember it only once in the Santa Clara Valley during my lifetime, and it was only half an inch deep. Tornadoes are about as rare, or at least they were. I can now remember two here, which is twice as many occurrences of snow that I can remember. Shortly after half past one last Saturday, rain, which had been falling for a while, suddenly became torrential, then instantly stopped, then instantly became torrential again. I stepped outside with Rhody to observe, and noticed Heather, Rhody’s feline ‘associate’ who prefers to stay inside during such stormy weather, had also come outside to observe, and was staring to the south. When I looked to see what she was looking at, I saw that not only were dark clouds speeding to the east, but that a portion of them was backtracking, as if swirling. My comment to Rhody and Heather was something like, “Well, at least tornadoes do not happen here.”. A few minutes later, a tornado did happen, right on Target, literally. It landed right on the Target store in Scotts Valley, less than two miles away. It was rated as an EF1 tornado, which apparently means that it was rather minor. It lasted for five minutes, though, while travelling only about a quarter of a mile. That is much slower than the clouds that we observed only a few minutes earlier. Fortunately, injuries were minimal, although a few cars were tossed. Utility cables, streetlamps and traffic signals were thrashed. So was much of the vegetation of the urban landscape.

Posted on by tonytomeo · 4 Comments

Sunday Best – Rhody

This is my first Sunday without writing anything more than this brief explanation about why I wrote nothing more than this brief explanation, . . . and why Rhody looks rather damp and concerned. A tornado landed less than two miles away, in Scotts Valley, just a moment before I got this picture. He knows about Toto of Kansas.