Horticulturists are by nature, nonconforming. I happen to find it difficult to conform to what makes us nonconforming. Trends are fleeting. Old technology that has worked for decades or centuries is still best. Although I am not totally against chemicals, I find that almost all are unnecessary for responsible home gardening. Pruning is underappreciated, and fixes many problems.
What a pathetic tropical hibiscus flower! It is only about two inches wide. It should be bright red instead of this faded terracotta pink. It even lacks foliage in the background. So, why did I take a picture of it? I was impressed by this flower because it bloomed on a cutting that is still in the process of rooting. I should have removed the bud when it appeared, to conserve resources for root growth. Instead, I let it bloom to see what would happen. This is the result. Knowing all that I know about it, I am somewhat impressed. Of course, I plucked the flower off after taking its picture. After all, I am a nurseryman, not a gardener. I want the cuttings to root as efficiently as possible. Actually, more of them than I expected seem to be rooting, so there may be a surplus of these particular hibiscus in the future. Cuttings of another cultivar that blooms yellow did not perform so well. Only three survived so far, and they are rather wimpy. I may need to go back to collect more cuttings for that one. I also would like cuttings from a cultivar that blooms orange.
Curve leaf yucca is one of a few species of the genus that is difficult to identify. It may be a distinct species, Yucca recurvifolia. It may be a naturally occurring variety of mound lily, Yucca gloriosa var. tristis or recurvifolia. Yet, it may be a natural hybrid of Yucca aloifolia and Yucca flaccida. To complicate all of this, its physical characteristics are inconsistent.
The evergreen leaves of curve leaf yucca are typically pliable, and curve downward. Yet, they can be quite rigid and upright. Foliar color is typically grayish green but can be olive drab. Stout but upright trunks can potentially develop, but may never do so. Only their tall floral stalks that bloom for summer are consistent. Individual flowers are small and white.
Curve leaf yucca enjoys warm and sunny exposures. Occasional watering through warm weather may improve vigor, but is unnecessary. Old colonies form large mounds that can slowly grow as high and wide as ten feet. With the exception of gophers, which eat roots, not much bothers curve leaf yucca. In fact, it can be very difficult to eradicate if unwanted. Pups may continue to develop from rhizomes for many years.
Understory plants, which tolerate various degrees of shade, are more popular than ever. Basically, smaller modern gardens amongst larger modern homes are shadier than ever. Densely evergreen trees that provide privacy for such gardens also provide more shade. Sunlight can be scarce. It may be helpful to know where to locate optimal sun exposure.
The sun moves from east to west as each day gets warmer. It does so more or less to the south of vertical. It is a bit farther to the south for winter than for summer. Such orientation and motion determine sun exposure within home gardens. Each side of a house, garage or fence faces one of such exposure or another. Eaves might provide shade from above.
Eastern exposure is good for plants that crave some direct sun exposure but not warmth. Azalea, rhododendron, andromeda and hydrangea prefer such exposures. They receive enough sunlight to bloom, but not so much that their foliage scorches. They enjoy partial shade before sunshine gets uncomfortably warm. Eastern exposures are sunny but cool.
Northern exposure is good for plants that do not require much sun exposure. Hydrangea may be somewhat lanky within such situations. Clivia, elephant ears, philodendrons and ferns may be better options. Upper floors and eaves significantly enlarge the shadows of northern exposure. Shadows are also larger in winter while the sun is lower to the south.
Western exposure is good for plants that crave both direct sun exposure and warmth. It is the opposite of eastern exposures, but is certainly no less sunny. It is merely warmer. Lily of the Nile, lavender, oleander and bougainvillea enjoy such sunny warmth. Some types of ferns and elephant ears may scorch with such exposure. Eaves delay direct exposure.
Southern exposure is good for plants that crave full sun exposure, but tolerate heat. Most plants that enjoy western exposure can also enjoy southern exposure. Many vegetables, with regular watering, are more productive with such exposure. Eaves provide shade for the warmest summer weather. They provide less shade while the sun is lower for winter.
These are a few plants that survived where my former home was abandoned, and where the new home is to be built. Some of them had been here since 2006 nineteen years ago.
1. Cereus peruvianus, night blooming cereus is from Brent’s former Miracle Mile garden balcony. I do not know why it is so spiny now. Maybe it is angry about being abandoned. Aeonium arboreum, common houseleek is from another friend’s garden near Monterey.
2. Crassula arborescens spp. undulatifolia, ripple jade, as well as the pinwheel aeonium below, remain unidentified. These names that I present here are merely guesses of their identities. Anyway, I procured this from a jobsite that I worked at in Hayward years ago.
3. Aeonium haworthii, pinwheel aeonium came from the same garden that the common houseleek came from near Monterey. The slope that it is attached to is actually too steep to stand on. Yucca recurvifolia, curve leaf yucca is from an old jobsite in Boulder Creek.
4. Aloe arborescens, candelabra aloe came from the home garden of an old friend in the East Hills of San Jose. It is higher on the same steep slope as the pinwheel aeonium and curve leaf yucca. It should grow better and produce pups for dividing with a bit of water.
5. Pelargonium graveolens, rose geranium impresses me most because it survived for so long, like the other perennials, but is supposedly not as resilient as they are. I found this in an old home garden in San Francisco, although I believe that it is common elsewhere.
6. Iris pallida, Dalmatian iris is important because it is from the garden of my maternal maternal great grandmother in Oklahoma. I acquired it when I was about four. Crassula ovata, jade plant was from my former home in town, where I lived after the earthquake.
Once naturalized in the garden, chamomile, Matricaria recutita, can get to be too much of a good thing. Seed sown in at the end of winter or early in spring typically does very well in the first year. The new plants bloom abundantly by the middle of summer and eventually become rampant and sparse enough to get cut back by the end of the following winter. The largest and most productive plants can die at the end of their first year, but are only replaced by the formerly smaller plants that survive getting cut back through winter to get an early start the following spring. Self sown seed can fill in where last year’s plants do not, and can migrate into places where no one would have thought to plant them!
The finely divided, lacy foliage stands nearly two feet tall, and more than half as broad on somewhat floppy stems. The inch wide daisy flowers that are white around the edges of big yellow centers can be dried to make chamomile tea.
‘Snowball’, ‘Golden Ball’ and ‘White Stars’ are actually varieties of related Chrysanthemum parthenium that are sometimes sold as chamomile. Feverfew, chamaemelum nobile, stays dense and low, and can be a nice ground cover for small areas. I grew my favorite traditional chamomile (as well as feverfew) from seed from Renee’s Garden.
Even passion flower can make a nice, albeit colorless, tea.
When she was younger, my niece, who happens to be the most elegantly refined girl in Gilroy, enjoyed doing tea. She certainly had the technique, as well as two patient grandmothers, to indulge in this particular tradition properly. The only problem was caffeine.
She was such a young lady; and her Nana and Grandma refrained from the consumption of caffeine. Black tea, made from the fermented bud leaves of tea camellias, was not a good option. Even green tea, made from the same leaves but without fermentation, contains some degree of caffeine. Herbal teas were more practical, as well as appealing to the discriminating taste of a young lady of such impeccable refinement.
There are all sorts of herbal teas made from flowers, leaves and fruit that can be grown in home gardens. Mint, chamomile and lemon grass are perhaps the most well known. Peppermint, spearmint and the many other varieties of mint all have unique flavors. Lavender, particularly French lavender, and some of the many sages can be used to add a bit of their distinctive flavors, too.
Thinly sliced and dried ginger and licorice root make spicy teas that are also good remedies to a mildly upset stomach. However, flowering ginger is not as robust as herbal ginger is. Finely chopped dried berries, cherries, apricots and quince, as well as the rinds of lemons and oranges, add their fruity flavors. The extensive tea list at the White Raven in Felton features teas flavored with dried hibiscus flowers, pelargoniums and rose hips.
Experimenting with herbal tea is like cooking. Within reason, anything goes. Tea can even be made from the dried young shoots of Douglas fir! The only plants that can not be used as tea are those that are potentially toxic.
Tea can of course be enjoyed hot, cold, or even at ambient temperature. Herbal tea is almost always made from dried plant parts, but can be made from fresh parts as well. The various mints have different flavors if brewed from fresh bits taken directly from the garden instead of dried leaves. I actually like to add a few fresh leaves from rose scented geranium (pelargonium) to common sun tea made by leaving black tea to brew out in a jar in the sun.
While they are in season, I also like to add a thin slice of fresh quince, which is so strongly flavored that it is just as effective fresh as it is dried for sun tea or hot tea. Apples and crabapples are also nice, but with much milder, and perhaps even boring, flavor. I prefer to eat the apples and then drop the cores into tea. A Slice or two of richly flavored fig can be good in sweetened hot tea.
Oregon grape, Mahonia aquifolium, is the Official State Flower of Oregon. Fruit such as this develops after its bright yellow bloom. It is nothing like grapes, though. It is edible, but unimpressive alone and fresh. Locally, it is not abundant enough to bother with collecting for culinary application, such as jelly. Wild plants are both rare and scarcely productive. Landscape plants are not much better. That justifies growing it in a garden where fruit production can be promoted. Perhaps it requires specialized pruning, like other species that are grown for fruit. Perhaps, like cane berries, it would be more productive if its old canes get pruned out annually. I really do not know, and am therefore receptive to suggestion. I already intend to grow it, although it will take a few years to get enough fruit to do anything with. Not so long ago, I was similarly intrigued by the native but ignored blue elderberry, which I found to be as useful as black elderberry of the East. My blue elderberry jelly won more ribbons than I can remember at the annual Jelly Competition of the Boulder Creek Harvest Festival. A blue ribbon for Oregon grape jelly would be excellent!
Within home gardens, Douglas fir, Pseudotsuga menziesii is very rare. So is the bigcone Douglas fir, Pseudotsuga macrocarpa of Southern California. However, they are not rare in the wild. Sometimes, suburban or rural home gardens develop around them. They can be awkward to accommodate. They are magnificent trees, but simply grow much too big.
Contrary to its rarity among home gardens, Douglas fir is actually common within homes. after all, most houses are constructed mostly of Douglas fir lumber. Most Christmas trees here are plantation grown Douglas fir. It is a major lumber plantation commodity in Chile, Argentina, New Zealand and Europe. Douglas fir is the Official State Tree of Oregon too.
Douglas fir is a grand tree in the wild. Old trees can grow more than two hundred feet tall with trunks eight feet wide! Their limbs may extend more than thirty feet from their trunks. It is obviously disproportionate for home gardens. Its soft evergreen foliage is delightfully aromatic, though. Its flattened, two-ranked needles are less than an inch and a half long. The female cones exhibit uniquely lacy scales.
Soil saturation is detrimental to trees for a few reasons. Excessive irrigation is almost as problematic, even without saturation. Chronic excessive moisture compromises stability by inhibiting deep root dispersion. Instead, it promotes shallower root buttressing. It may compromise structural integrity, too. It is generally the cause of spontaneous limb failure.
Spontaneous limb failure is exactly what it implies. Its spontaneity is what makes it more hazardous than limb failure caused by wind. It happens while the weather is calm, warm and perhaps humid, when least expected. Limbs might sag and produce cracking noises immediately prior to falling. However, they quite often fall suddenly and without warning.
Spontaneous limb failure is associated more with gravity than wind. It occurs as vigorous stems literally grow faster than they can support. Warm weather accelerates foliar growth that increases weight. A lack of wind and perhaps enhanced humidity inhibit evaporation from foliar surfaces. Inhibition of evapotranspiration limits weight loss during weight gain.
Deciduous trees are generally more susceptible to spontaneous limb failure. Sweetgum, willows, poplars and elms are particularly vulnerable. A few evergreen trees are likewise susceptible, though. They include coast live oak, Monterey cypress and a few eucalypti. Fruit trees exhibit spontaneous limb failure if they can not support the weight of their fruit.
The potential for spontaneous limb failure is rarely obvious. Limbs of some types of trees may visually appear to be too heavy or floppy. Limbs of Monterey pine, for example, may lean to one side if they sag prior to failure. However, valley oak, carob and sycamore are notorious for concealing their weaknesses. Even arborists can not predict all limb failure.
Wild trees within new landscapes are particularly vulnerable to spontaneous limb failure. They are not accustomed to irrigation through otherwise arid summers. Some can adapt as landscapes with irrigation develop around them. Others overindulge and become too heavy for their own trunks or limbs to support. New trees adapt to irrigation as they grow.
Tony Tomeo 