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Fruit Trees Versus Shade Trees

Excessive fruit can become a problem.

Why are more urban shade trees not fruit trees? Urban landscapes could produce much more food than they already do. It could be so nice to be able to pick fresh fruit from trees in parks or flanking streets. After all, this region formerly sustained orchards of fruit trees. It could certainly sustain more fruit trees again. Why waste space on mere shade trees?

Many cities in California sustain more trees than they naturally did prior to urbanization. Both San Jose and Los Angeles were chaparral grassland with only isolated woodlands. Their urban trees are now more numerous than native trees were only two centuries ago. The same applies to several urban areas, including San Diego, Bakersfield and Fresno.

Trees are not only more abundant than they naturally were. They are also more practical. They perform specific functions. Those that are street trees must develop high canopies, and need minimal maintenance. Those in parks must be broad enough to create shade. For many reasons, fruit trees are impractical for such applications in public landscapes.

Fruit trees generally require significantly more maintenance than typical shade trees do. Deciduous fruit trees require specialized dormant pruning each winter. Without adequate pruning, their limbs become overburdened with fruit and break. Such pruning is very time consuming. It also necessitates cordoning off space below trees during the procedures.

Also, fruit trees are significantly lower than shade trees. This facilitates both specialized pruning, as well as collection of fruit. Street trees and most shade trees are much higher for clearance below. With the same clearance, particularly over roadways, fruit would be out of reach. Limbs that are low enough to produce fruit within reach would be obtrusive.

Fruit that is out of reach becomes messy below. For street trees, it becomes a slip hazard on paved surfaces. Furthermore, fruit attracts unwanted wildlife, including rats, raccoons and opossums. Ultimately, trees selection should be appropriate to specific applications. Fruit trees are better within private home gardens. Shade trees should not produce fruit.

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Roots Are A Necessary Compromise

Surface roots can be very aggressive.

With very few exceptions, all plants have roots. Almost all roots remain out of view within soil or potting media. Consequently, they do not get much consideration or credit for their important functions. They stabilize and collect nutrients for the plants that disperse them. They are as diverse and specialized as the stems and foliage of the plants they sustain.

Naturally, large plants like trees and big shrubbery disperse their roots very extensively. They must in order to obtain the nutrients and moisture they need to sustain themselves. In home gardens, though, they do not need to disperse their roots nearly as extensively. With watering and maybe fertilization, they can obtain what they need relatively closely.

Roots of domestic trees and shrubs are therefore more confined than those of wild trees. They are also closer to the surface of the soil. Roots of plants that prefer better drainage will not disperse very deeply. Unfortunately, some are likely to displace infrastructure on the surface of the soil. They damage sidewalks, curbs, driveways, and even foundations.

Repair of such damage typically involves removing or at least severing the causal roots. Severing substantial roots can be stressful to their associated trees or shrubs. It can also destabilize them. Some of such trees and shrubs may actually require complete removal. Future damage is somewhat avoidable by simply planting appropriate trees and shrubs.

Near pavement, appropriate trees should innately exhibit complaisant root systems. For trees that have potential to damage nearby concrete, root barriers might be useful. Root barriers are rigid plastic devices that surround the root systems of new trees. They direct root growth downward. Most extend into the soil two feet deep, but are open underneath.

Other types of root barrier are available for established trees. They are either flexible but firm plastic flashing, or fabric studded with herbicide pellets. They too extend into the soil two feet deep. After trenching to cut damaging roots next to pavement, a root barrier goes into the trench. Filling the trench holds the barrier in place to redirect encroaching roots.

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Prune

Prunes are merely freestone European plums.

A prune is not merely a dried plum. Plums and prunes are really two distinct types of fruit. Plums are Japanese cling fruits, with their ripe flesh firmly adhered to their pits. They are rounder, softer, juicier, more colorful and best for fresh eating. Prunes, Prunus domestica, are European freestone fruits. They are slightly oblong, firmer, sweeter and dark purple.

Because of their higher sugar content, prunes are more popular dried than fresh. Plums are likely to mold during the drying process because they contain less sugar. Prunes are also better for canning and juicing than plums. However, for marketing purposes, modern prunes now qualify as plums. Plum juice is apparently more appealing than prune juice.

Regardless of their differences, plums and prunes are of the same genus. They grow on similar trees that require the same dormant pruning through winter. Dwarf trees are about ten feet tall. Semi-dwarf trees, which are the most popular, can get almost fifteen feet tall. Efficient pruning keeps them shorter so that more of their fruit grows within reach.

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Japanese Black Pine

Japanese black pine produces small pinecones.

Most pines grow too large for compact urban home gardens. Japanese black pine, Pinus thunbergii, is an exception. Although it can grow bigger in the wild, it does not get much taller than twenty feet here. It takes many years to grow as broad, typically with irregular and sculptural form. Because of its form, it is quite conducive to pruning for confinement.

The evergreen foliage of Japanese black pine is rich deep green. Its paired needles are about four and a half inches long, and somewhat stiff. Its stout cones are only about two or three inches long. They are as green as their foliage while developing, but eventually become brown. Even young trees have handsomely flaky bark, which darkens with rain.

Japanese black pine is notably undemanding. It supposedly prefers slightly sandy soils that drain efficiently. However, it performs well within local soils. Disease and pathogens are quite rare here, although boring beetles sometimes appear. Japanese black pine can thrive in large pots if pruned to be proportionate. It is popular for both bonsai and niwaki, and can perform for centuries.

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Arborists Are Horticulturists Of Trees

Arborists work on the biggest trees.

Trees are the most substantial living components of their landscapes. Many grow too big for garden enthusiasts or professional gardeners to maintain them. Such trees will likely eventually require the services of arborists. Arborists are horticulturists who specialize in the horticulture of trees, or arboriculture. Most of the best are certified as such by the ISA.

The ISA is the International Society of Arboriculture. Certification by the ISA first requires arborists to pass an arboricultural proficiency exam. Maintenance of certification requires continuing participation with ISA programs. This includes classes, workshops, seminars and qualified work experience. Arborists must also maintain ISA professional standards.

More information about the ISA is available online at isa-arbor.com. This site includes a link for more consumer information at treesaregood.org. An interactive directory identifies local certified arborists and their tree services. Various articles explain the importance of securing services from qualified arborists. Other resources help select appropriate trees.

ISA certified arborists do more than maintain trees. If necessary, they also remove trees. Many municipalities require permits for removal of significant trees. A permit application requires recommendation for removal from a certified arborist. To prescribe removal, the arborist must compose an arborist report to justify it. Such processes requires inspection.

ISA certified arborists do not invariably perform all the procedures that they recommend. Most work with and supervise a few crews who execute their recommended procedures. Arboriculture is very physically demanding work. Some who do it while younger prefer to become consulting arborists when a bit older. Their work experience is a valuable asset.

The need for arboriculture becomes more apparent at particular times of the year. Winter storms make it more obvious. Also, several trees prefer pruning during winter dormancy. However, various arboricultural procedures are seasonable at various times of the year. Most of such procedures can be performed whenever convenient, at any time of the year.

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Mexican Fan Palm

Mexican fan palms are quite tall.

Queen palm might now be the most popular and common palm here. However, Mexican fan palm, Washingtonia robusta, is still the most prominent. That is because it is so very tall! It grows quickly to about fifty feet tall. Growth decelerates with maturity; but old trees are about twice as tall. Some of the tallest local specimens are more than a century old.

Mexican fan palms are about twice as tall as California fan palms, but slimmer. Their tall trunks lean as prevailing winds blow them. Consequently, some of the tallest lean above adjacent gardens rather than their own. The pleated and palmate leaves are about three feet broad. They are about six feet long with their petioles, which have unpleasant teeth.

Mexican fan palm is not discriminating about soil or water. It commonly self sows where it gets no irrigation, and grows well without it. With irrigation, it only grows faster. Without pruning, Mexican fan palm accumulates beards of dry fronds. With pruning, it can either retain a lattice of petiole bases on its trunk, or be shaven. Only arborists can prune them properly.

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Utilities Limit Appropriate Tree Selection

Clearance pruning can disfigure big trees.

Trees and utilities should not mix. Unfortunately, on rare occasion, they do. Trees cause electrical outages or fires by dropping limbs onto electrical cables. Telecommunications are also susceptible to such disruption. Arborists maintain clearance for utility cables, but can not eliminate all hazards. Several trees are simply too large and too close to utilities.

Of course, this is more of a problem within rural areas, where native trees grow wild. It is also sometimes a problem within urban areas, though. Many urban trees are too large for their particular situations. Some extend their growth within easements for aerial utilities. Selection of trees that are proportionate to their situations helps to avoid such problems.

Any palm tree that can grow tall enough to reach utility cables should avoid them. Palms grow only upward, so are not conducive to pruning around such cables. Any that get too close to high voltage cables will be subject to decapitation. That entails removal of their solitary terminal buds, which kills them. Then, their dead carcasses necessitate removal.

This is unfortunately a common problem. Mexican fan palms commonly grow below high voltage cables. This is because birds that drop their seed so often perch on such cables. Also, queen palms are popular for planting within rear corners of backyards. This is often directly below aerial utilities. Queen palms reach such utilities within only several years.

Palm trees are not the only concern in regard to utilities. Various sycamores, ashes and elms vigorously grow quite tall. Canary Island pine and sweetgum develop upright form. Actually, any tree that grows as high as high voltage cables should avoid them. Plenty of smaller trees are available. Clearance pruning for aerial utilities is potentially disfiguring.

Pruning any tree near high voltage cables is extremely hazardous. This is why electrical service providers employ professionally trained arborists to do so. Unfortunately though, proper arboricultural technique is not a priority. Safety and reliability of electrical service are. Pruning for clearance of utilities is efficient, but can severely damage subject trees.

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Vines Are Naturally Very Competitive

Some vines climb with clinging roots.

Nature is competitive. Competition is natural. In the wild, vegetation competes for limited resources. Where sunlight is a limited resource within forest ecosystems, competition for it is fierce. Understory vegetation does what it can in the shade of taller trees. Taller trees strive to be the tallest for more sunlight. Vines are the most aggressive competitors of all.

Vines are blatantly exploitative. They rely on trees to do the work of growing to the top of the forest canopy. Then, they climb into and over such trees to grow even higher than the trees do. Some can overwhelm and even shade out and kill the trees that they rely on for support. Strangler fig literally strangles its hosts as it develops its own supportive trunks.

Vines climb with clinging roots, twining stems, tendrils, twining leaves or hooked thorns. Some are perennials or even annuals. Some sprawl over the ground while juvenile, and then climb as they encounter support. As they reach the top of their supports, such vines generate shrubbier adult growth. Then, such adult growth can bloom and generate seed.

English ivy, for example, is a practical groundcover plant in its juvenile form. However, it becomes a clinging vine when it finds support. It quite often climbs shrubbery, trees and buildings. If left unattended, it develops into shrubbier growth that blooms and produces seed. Such shrubby growth shades desirable vegetation, and on buildings, promotes rot.

Carolina jessamine, lilac vine, mandevilla and wisteria climb by twining stems. They are generally not as potentially destructive as clinging vines. However, they can crush lattice or small trellises. Wisteria can crush substantial trellises. Like English ivy, star jasmine is likely more popular as a ground cover. It performs double duty, though, as a twining vine.

Bougainvillea neither clings nor twines. It merely produces vigorously tall canes that flop over on top of their support. Long thorns help to anchor them into place. Therefore, such canes need a bit of help to climb trellises or other support. They must be tied in place or woven into their trellises. Various other vines exhibit various and distinct characteristics.

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Six on Saturday: TIMBER!

Several large trees needed to be removed at work.

1. The steeple of the Mount Hermon Memorial Chapel (el Catedral de Santa Clara de Los Gatos) is now visible. It had been mostly obscured by a big Douglas fir and a big tan oak.

2. This new view of stately redwoods is also visible behind the Mount Hermon Memorial Chapel. It had previously been cluttered with tan oaks, bays and another big Douglas fir.

3. Logs were still strewn about when I took these pictures on Wednesday. Unfortunately, a few redwoods needed to be removed also. The largest trunks will be milled for lumber.

4. The stump to the lower right was cut last Monday or Tuesday. The stump to the upper left was cut when the redwoods were harvested, prior to 1906, more than 120 years ago.

5. Alyssum, wax begonia and zonal geranium should perform much better with so much more sunshine. (Stock will be removed for summer.) They had always been in the shade.

6. This rose, although irrelevant to the topic, is the token flower of my Six for this week. It is too colorful to omit. I have no idea what cultivar it is. It was red, then faded to pink.

This is the link for Six on Saturday, for anyone else who would like to participate: https://thepropagatorblog.wordpress.com/2017/09/18/six-on-saturday-a-participant-guide/

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Coast Live Oak

Coast live oak grows quite large.

Coast live oak, Quercus agrifolia, is more adaptable in the wild than in home gardens. It can grow in groves or mix with other tree species, particularly at the coast. Alternatively, it can grow solitarily in open grassland, particularly inland. Solitary specimens can be a few centuries old. They can grow as tall and wide as seventy-five feet, with a few trunks.

Within irrigated home gardens, though, coast live oak likely does not survive for as long. It is impossible to know because no home garden here is a few centuries old. With water, young specimens mature faster than they would in the wild. Once established though, no irrigation is needed. Mature wild specimens often succumb to root rot with new irrigation.

Coast live oak is more appealing in the wild than within home gardens anyway. It sheds foliar debris continually, particularly as new foliage emerges during spring. Although it is technically evergreen, it replaces its foliage annually. Its foliar debris is mildly herbicidal to delicate plants below, and stains pavement. Every few years, acorns are very prolific. Seedlings can appear in the oddest of situations.