Posted on by tonytomeo · 2 Comments

Black Locust

Black locust is a stately tree.

Flowering locust within home gardens are quite different from their wild relatives. Black locust, Robinia pseudoacacia, is one of such wild relatives which can not behave. It was popular decades ago, but is no longer available from nurseries. It was useful for lumber, firewood, erosion control and soil conditioning. Then, it naturalized to become invasive.

Consequently, it sometimes finds its way into home gardens. It grows fast and develops upright and lofty stature. Its furrowed bark is quite distinguished. Its pinnately compound and deciduous leaves have a fine texture. Their shade is moderate. The nicely fragrant spring bloom resembles that of wisteria. Small white flowers hang in pendulous trusses.

Although black locust has many appealing characteristics, it can become a problem. It is aggressively invasive, so often grows where it should not. It is very difficult to eradicate. Roots that remain after the removal of established trees can generate suckers for years. Such suckers are difficult to remove because they are so very thorny. Fortunately, black locust splits easily and makes very good firewood.

Posted on by tonytomeo

Flowering Pear

Flowering pear should become exceptionally colorful.

Some of the most reliable autumn foliar color is that of flowering pear, Pyrus calleryana. Some may know it as Callery pear. It develops foliar color as soon as the weather cools. Such color ranges from brilliant yellow to deep burgundy red, but is mostly fiery orange. This colorful foliage lasts for two or three weeks, but can be dislodged by rain and wind.

After winter, many trees bloom with billowy white flowers. Bloom is more abundant after exceptionally cool winters. Vigorous young trees may not bloom as much as established trees. Unfortunately, some may find the floral fragrance of some cultivars objectionable. Some mature trees produce tiny but potentially somewhat messy fruits during summer.

Flowering pear can grow about twenty feet tall or a bit taller. Its branch structure can be quite dense and compact. Consequently, crowded limbs can break away from otherwise symmetrical mature trees. Leaves are somewhat rounded and about two or three inches long. They develop as spring bloom finishes. Fireblight sometimes becomes a problem.

Posted on by tonytomeo · 14 Comments

Six on Saturday: Bark II

Six more mostly big conifers continue from last Saturday.

1. Juglans hindsii, Northern California black walnut is one of two of these six which are not conifers. It is also one of two that are exotic, though it is native to adjacent counties.

2. Cupressus macrocarpa, Monterey cypress is the other one that is exotic, although it is native to an adjacent county. Both it and California black walnut are almost native here.

3. Pinus ponderosa, ponderosa pine does not mingle much with redwood or Douglas fir, so is the dominant big conifer within its forests. It is the Official State Tree of Montana.

4. Pseudotsuga menziesii, Douglas fir mingles mostly with redwood or oak forests. Only a few venture into nearby ponderosa pine forests. It is the Official State Tree of Oregon.

5. Sequoia sempervirens, coastal redwood is the Official State Tree of California, and the tallest tree species in the World! It really is a pleasure to work around so many of them.

6. Rhody has the nicest bark. He is the other one of two of these six that are not conifers. It is difficult to get a good picture of him. Even with a treat, this was the best I could do.

Anyone who would like to participate in this meme should peruse this participant guide for Six on Saturday.

Posted on by tonytomeo · 10 Comments

Six on Saturday: Bark

It has been quite a while since I shared pictures of the interesting bark around here.

1. Umbellularia californica, bay is known by several common names, such as California bay laurel, California bay, California laurel, Oregon myrtle, mountain laurel, spicebush, pepperwood, cinnamon bush, peppernut tree, headache tree and balm of Heaven. Wow!

2. Platanus racemosa, California sycamore is technically not a riparian species, but does prefer to be near water. They can grow a bit too well in lawns, and then become too big.

3. Arbutus mensiesii, madrone has both very smooth bark and finely checkered bark like this. The smooth bark is chestnut brown, and is about as smooth and shiny as chestnuts.

4. Quercus lobata, valley oak is still relatively young. Otherwise, its bark would be more deeply furrowed. It might be here for another six centuries, and grow impressively large.

5. Quercus agrifolia, coast live oak has variable bark. It is mostly smooth and gray while young, but can get striated at an early age. It eventually roughens and darkens with age.

6. Lithocarpus densiflorus, tanoak is technically not an oak, but creates acorns anyway. The gray portions of its bark resemble that of coast live oak, but are not quite as smooth.

Anyone who would like to participate in this meme should peruse this participant guide for Six on Saturday.

Posted on by tonytomeo · 16 Comments

Six on Saturday: Arborist’s Report

Both of only two grand valley oaks at work are deteriorating. Sadly, the prognosis for the smaller of the two is not so good.

1. Quercus lobata, valley oak is obviously distressed. It should not start to defoliate until after cool weather later in autumn. Even then, defoliation should be more symmetrical.

2. Upon closer inspection, fluffy and newer interior growth is evidently comprising most of the canopy, while the exterior of the canopy is notably sparse. It is not a new problem.

3. The defoliated portion of the canopy appears to be completely necrotic. No foliage can be seen. If the tree survives, removal of this portion will severely disfigure its symmetry.

4. This significant cavity is developing on the formerly flawless trunk. The interior wood is badly decayed. Sadly, the tree may not live long enough for this to become a concern.

5. Cupressus macrocarpa, Monterey cypress, next to the valley oak, is likely succumbing to cypress bark canker. A few trees have already been removed. It is also a slow process.

6. Meanwhile, in other news, a collared mountain lion was seen on surveillance video in the neighborhood. We all know that they live here, but it is different to actually see one.

Anyone who would like to participate in this meme should peruse this participant guide for Six on Saturday.

Posted on by tonytomeo

Stakes Should Stabilize New Trees

Binding should subordinate to staking.

Initially after planting, many new trees and some large shrubs rely on stakes for stability. Some limber trees also need temporary structural support for thin trunks. Staking is only necessary until confined roots disperse and young trunks mature. Then, trees and large shrubbery stand on their own. Stakes help with the transition from nursery to landscape.

Different trees require different types of stakes. Palm trees need none at all. Spruce trees are likewise stout enough to stand alone. Camphor trees, though, typically need staking both for structural integrity and stability. Landscape stakes provide stability while nursery stakes provide trunk integrity. For most trees, landscape stakes displace nursery stakes.

Landscape stakes are those that loosely support new trees within their new landscapes. Nursery stakes, if present, are those that direct straight trunk growth in nurseries. Binding to nursery stakes inhibits trunk expansion, though. Therefore, it is better to remove them as soon as possible. This should occur after planting and staking with landscape stakes.

Landscape stakes, for adequate stability, should extend below roots of associated trees. This puts them into the solid undisturbed soil below the excavated soil. Also, they should be about as high as the lowest branches of their associated trees. For shrubbery and low branched trees, they should be about five feet high. Stakes are in standardized lengths.

One stake is adequate for some small trees. Other larger trees may justify two. Likewise, one top strap for each stake may be adequate. Secondary straps about halfway between top straps and the ground might be useful. They minimize bowing of limber trunks. Short nails can hold straps in place. Straps should cross over between their stakes and trees.

Staking should be as unobtrusive as possible. If it supports trees too rigidly, it can inhibit trunk growth and development. Trunks that are able to move somewhat with breezes will be stronger. If binding remains necessary, it should be as loose as possible. It constricts as trunks expand. Ultimately, as trees mature, staking and binding become unnecessary, and should be removed.

Posted on by tonytomeo · 13 Comments

Six on Saturday: Auditorium Terrace & Overlook Deck

This will very soon be a rather significant construction project at work.

1. These plans do not represent the scale of this project well. The Auditorium Terrace is already present, but is in need of renovation. The Overlook Deck will be completely new.

2. In the process of renovation, four disfigured and deteriorating London plane trees will be replaced with specially grown high-branched red maples for the Auditorium Terrace.

3. Orange mesh designates where the new Overlook Deck will be. The top of the mesh is at the same level of the deck. The wire is where the rail will be. It is higher than it looks.

4. Stumps of the many trees that were cut down for this project are trying to regenerate, and will likely continue to do so for many years. Tanoak and bay trees do not die easily.

5. Our only palm here, a windmill palm, will be displaced by the project. Fortunately, we planned ahead, and nested it into the ground still within its big tub, rather than plant it.

6. Strangely, what we thought were three alders are now blooming with prominent white flowers. They are some sort of dogwood. They were in too much shade to bloom before.

Anyone who would like to participate in this meme should peruse this participant guide for Six on Saturday.

Posted on by tonytomeo

Fruit Trees Versus Shade Trees

Excessive fruit can become a problem.

Why are more urban shade trees not fruit trees? Urban landscapes could produce much more food than they already do. It could be so nice to be able to pick fresh fruit from trees in parks or flanking streets. After all, this region formerly sustained orchards of fruit trees. It could certainly sustain more fruit trees again. Why waste space on mere shade trees?

Many cities in California sustain more trees than they naturally did prior to urbanization. Both San Jose and Los Angeles were chaparral grassland with only isolated woodlands. Their urban trees are now more numerous than native trees were only two centuries ago. The same applies to several urban areas, including San Diego, Bakersfield and Fresno.

Trees are not only more abundant than they naturally were. They are also more practical. They perform specific functions. Those that are street trees must develop high canopies, and need minimal maintenance. Those in parks must be broad enough to create shade. For many reasons, fruit trees are impractical for such applications in public landscapes.

Fruit trees generally require significantly more maintenance than typical shade trees do. Deciduous fruit trees require specialized dormant pruning each winter. Without adequate pruning, their limbs become overburdened with fruit and break. Such pruning is very time consuming. It also necessitates cordoning off space below trees during the procedures.

Also, fruit trees are significantly lower than shade trees. This facilitates both specialized pruning, as well as collection of fruit. Street trees and most shade trees are much higher for clearance below. With the same clearance, particularly over roadways, fruit would be out of reach. Limbs that are low enough to produce fruit within reach would be obtrusive.

Fruit that is out of reach becomes messy below. For street trees, it becomes a slip hazard on paved surfaces. Furthermore, fruit attracts unwanted wildlife, including rats, raccoons and opossums. Ultimately, trees selection should be appropriate to specific applications. Fruit trees are better within private home gardens. Shade trees should not produce fruit.

Posted on by tonytomeo · 2 Comments

Roots Are A Necessary Compromise

Surface roots can be very aggressive.

With very few exceptions, all plants have roots. Almost all roots remain out of view within soil or potting media. Consequently, they do not get much consideration or credit for their important functions. They stabilize and collect nutrients for the plants that disperse them. They are as diverse and specialized as the stems and foliage of the plants they sustain.

Naturally, large plants like trees and big shrubbery disperse their roots very extensively. They must in order to obtain the nutrients and moisture they need to sustain themselves. In home gardens, though, they do not need to disperse their roots nearly as extensively. With watering and maybe fertilization, they can obtain what they need relatively closely.

Roots of domestic trees and shrubs are therefore more confined than those of wild trees. They are also closer to the surface of the soil. Roots of plants that prefer better drainage will not disperse very deeply. Unfortunately, some are likely to displace infrastructure on the surface of the soil. They damage sidewalks, curbs, driveways, and even foundations.

Repair of such damage typically involves removing or at least severing the causal roots. Severing substantial roots can be stressful to their associated trees or shrubs. It can also destabilize them. Some of such trees and shrubs may actually require complete removal. Future damage is somewhat avoidable by simply planting appropriate trees and shrubs.

Near pavement, appropriate trees should innately exhibit complaisant root systems. For trees that have potential to damage nearby concrete, root barriers might be useful. Root barriers are rigid plastic devices that surround the root systems of new trees. They direct root growth downward. Most extend into the soil two feet deep, but are open underneath.

Other types of root barrier are available for established trees. They are either flexible but firm plastic flashing, or fabric studded with herbicide pellets. They too extend into the soil two feet deep. After trenching to cut damaging roots next to pavement, a root barrier goes into the trench. Filling the trench holds the barrier in place to redirect encroaching roots.

Posted on by tonytomeo

Prune

Prunes are merely freestone European plums.

A prune is not merely a dried plum. Plums and prunes are really two distinct types of fruit. Plums are Japanese cling fruits, with their ripe flesh firmly adhered to their pits. They are rounder, softer, juicier, more colorful and best for fresh eating. Prunes, Prunus domestica, are European freestone fruits. They are slightly oblong, firmer, sweeter and dark purple.

Because of their higher sugar content, prunes are more popular dried than fresh. Plums are likely to mold during the drying process because they contain less sugar. Prunes are also better for canning and juicing than plums. However, for marketing purposes, modern prunes now qualify as plums. Plum juice is apparently more appealing than prune juice.

Regardless of their differences, plums and prunes are of the same genus. They grow on similar trees that require the same dormant pruning through winter. Dwarf trees are about ten feet tall. Semi-dwarf trees, which are the most popular, can get almost fifteen feet tall. Efficient pruning keeps them shorter so that more of their fruit grows within reach.